Partly coastal and partly pastoral, and completely beautiful, San Juan Island is a dream. As you disembark the ferry in Friday Harbor and relax into “island time,” all the worries and concerns you had back on the ferry seemingly fade away. Over the course of your time on the island, youβll smell the ocean breeze (itβs a little sweet, a little salty, we think), search for elusive marine wildlife including orca whales, and enjoy the abundance of fresh local ingredients.
When my family lived in the Seattle area, San Juan Island was our preferred summer camping destination. In my teenage years, I took the natural splendor there for granted. Don`t repeat my mistake – fully immerse yourself in island life by turning off electronic devices, living in the present moment, and absorbing the sheer natural beauty this remarkable portion of the Pacific Northwest contains.
In this guide to the top things to do on San Juan Island, we`ll discuss our favorite experiences, from whale watching from land, to getting out on the Haro Strait by sea kayaks, and much more. For such a small island, there is quite a wide selection of activities and sights to see.
We ought to note that, in this guide, we are referring specifically to San Juan Island, the most visited of the greater San Juan Islands cluster. Four islands accessible by ferry in the San Juan Islands area β San Juan, Orcas, Lopez, and Shaw. Again, weβre speaking about San Juan Island herein, home to Friday Harbor and Lime Kiln Lighthouse. We understand, it can be somewhat perplexing.
We also offer guidance about exploring Orcas Island, the largest island by area and second most frequented in the area, which is well worth dedicating a day or two to if time allows. It has a similar atmosphere but sees far fewer visitors than San Juan Island. Additionally, taking the ferry from San Juan Island to the other islands is free as long as one heads east. It will cost to travel from Orcas back to San Juan, but not from San Juan to Orcas or from Orcas to the mainland.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we donβt stand behind 100%.
Getting There
To reach San Juan Island from the mainland, you must take a ferry from the Anacortes Ferry Terminal, located two hours (84 miles) northwest of Seattle. It`s a scenic 65 minute ferry ride where you can bring your vehicle onboard.
- Begin at the Lisbon Cathedral (SΓ© de Lisboa) at the base of the elevation ( here on Google Maps). The 12th-century cathedral is the oldest and most significant church in Lisbon. It has undergone numerous renovations over its history, but still remains one of the cityβs most recognizable landmarks. Going inside the church isnβt necessary (in our view). But if you do still have some extra time left, you can enter for just β¬4. The ticket includes the cloisters and treasury, so itβs good value.
You also need to be through the toll booth at least 30 minutes before the ferry departure time, which implies you should arrive 45-60 minutes in advance. Yes, even if you have a reservation. This is an extremely popular ferry route, and there is only one means to get to the island.
Taking the ferry is not inexpensive (see costs here) but itβs worthwhile noting that this expense covers you roundtrip. As long as youβre traveling from west to east (i.e. San Juan Island to Orcas Island, or San Juan Island to Anacortes), it will be free.
Be sure to make reservations for both departing from and returning to Anacortes, as those routes see high popularity.
If reservations are unavailable, don`t be alarmed. First, check back two days before your trip when more slots may open. Second, try arriving very early (60-90 minutes ahead) for standby access. Third, choose the first or last ferry of the day which usually have fewer passengers. Last, walk on and park your car at the ferry terminal instead.
Getting Around
Once on the island, you have several transportation options to consider.
The foremost choice, and clearly the superior selection, is driving oneself. This provides access to every corner of the island, allowing flexibility to join crowds at popular spots like the lavender farm and in Friday Harbor, while also permitting exploration of the far flung regions of the island after departing those places.
Parking in Friday Harbor can be problematic midday, so if your kayaking tour lasts over two hours, arrive early to secure an 8-hour spot (which can be found around the courthouse in downtown Friday Harbor). There`s also a public parking lot with 10-hour parking a few blocks up Spring Street from Kingβs Market.
Without a vehicle, you have a few transport options available.
- Of all the outer suburbs worth considering, especially if a significant commercial event is taking place, we find Eschborn appealing. The contemporary hotels located here tend to offer good value in relation to their quality level β not budget accommodations, but a better option than what is available in the city for a similar price point. Eschborn SΓΌdstation is just a 15 minute ride from Frankfurt main station on frequent S-Bahn trains. Top hotels in this area include Leonardo,Moxy,the niu Belt, and Hyatt House.
King Bed with Scenic Balcony Views Near Parque Lleras(studio) : This pleasant studio offers views of the city from its balcony, which has an spacious layout despite its size for one or two people. The balcony, where panoramic perspectives can be enjoyed, appears to be a perfect place to sip coffee in the morning or wine in the evening. It`s strollable to the top attractions in El Poblado and has a complete kitchen and walk-in shower.
The Best Things to Do on San Juan Island
Next, the primary attractions! The top options for activities on San Juan Island are outlined below.
Get Out on the Water in a Kayak
We know a group of sea kayakers, and without exception every single one of them recommends the San Juan Islands as some of the finest sea kayaking on the planet. Actually, when we were in New Zealand, our guide for our kayaking tour on Milford Sound told us that he spends part of the year down there, and the summer and fall leading tours in the San Juan Islands.
So, as you might infer, the initial thing we surveyed was hopping in a sea kayak.
Through swift understanding, we realized that to lease a sea kayak on the isle required certification from an ACA/BCU 4* which we unquestionably lacked. Why? The waters (currently composing this from our campsite on San Juan Isle) are quite risky. As an amateur kayak paddler at best, I comprehend the merging of diverse currents and wind patterns plus profound, cold open seas render it one of the more hazardous places globally to take a sea kayak out without apt knowledge.
If you are in the βI have no idea what Iβm doingβ group like us, strongly it is recommended to take an accompanied tour with one of the numerous companies functioning on the island. Youβll get all the thrill of being out on the water with an experienced, professional guide who truly understands about the water, weather, wildlife, and more.
Sea Kayaking with Outdoor Odysseys
We opted for Outdoor Odysseys because theyβre a local provider that has functioned on San Juan Island for 30+ years, and they have specifically decided to merely do βhuman-poweredβ research, unlike numerous providers who offer whale watching tours on motorized boats alongside their kayaking excursions. They are experts in sea kayaking, and are laser-focused on putting together the finest possible trips.
To be clear, we personally financed our trip, and this post in no way represents a sponsored promotional piece or anything similar. We simply enjoyed our experience and our guide Zoe tremendously, and believe you will too.
From there, visitors must opt for either tour offered. At the time of writing, options include a half-day excursion along the eastern side or a full day voyage towards the western region renowned for whale watching. We selected the full day option, taking us through Haro Strait between San Juan Island and Vancouver Island in a vehicle departing and arriving from Friday Harbor`s downtown where guides are met.
From there, youβll participate in a brief safety briefing, and then suit up to get in the kayak. Youβll paddle from San Juan County Park, south along the coast past the Lime Kiln Lighthouse, stop for lunch at a beach just south of the lighthouse, and then head back the same way you came. It was an exceedingly pleasant way to spend a day, and about half of the six hours will be spent out on the water.
I did not prefer that the route retraced itself out and back along the same path, however, I am unsure how else the logistics could have been arranged.
They also offer multi-day tours, which our guide (Zoe was outstanding!) informed us about extensively. They involve kayaking, part culinary extravaganza β they carry dutch ovens on the kayaks, which is above and beyond! They have two and three day alternatives, which are on our list for potential trips to the islands. Having a couple of days means you can get a little farther off the well-trodden path than a day trip permits. If you have an extra day or two, that would be an amazing way to spend it. They assured me that they take dietary restrictions seriously, and would be able to pack an entire separate set of dishes and cookware for me since I have Celiac Disease, and allowing others to cook for me is generally stressful.
Another excursion I would take into consideration is the Orca Search tour from San Juan Outfitters because it launches from Roche Harbor and transports visitors to a location attainable only by watercraft. You wonβt always catch glimpses of orcas on that tour, but it carries travelers out into the Haro Strait, offering a decent probability of sightings of either killer whales or ample other marine wildlife.
Go on a Whale Watching Tour
San Juan Island is one of the best locations to see orca whales in the world. Both from land (more on this below), and up close and personal. The best way to see whales up close is by joining a whale watching tour.
We engaged in an in-depth conversation about the ethics of whale watching between ourselves, and then brought it up with our kayaking guide to get her perspective on it.
We had combined emotions about it. On one side, it`s definitely an awesome and astounding experience to get out and see whales in their natural habitat. That experience can only have positive effects on how people see and appreciate wildlife.
On the other hand, the consistent noise (and other) pollution and borderline harassment of the whales is certainly not advantageous for them. The noise pollution in particular disrupts their ability to connect through echolocation. Combine that with the fact that whale watching corporations regularly send out scouts in the morning, then follow the whales all day long, and youβve got a genuine ethical dilemma on your hands if you care about the well-being of the whales.
There had recently been an argument made to fully prohibit whale watching in the Pacific Northwest altogether to safeguard the dwindling southern resident orca whale population (which faces additional pressures beyond just whale watching, but all are human-caused).
The key is doing research to find a company that is doing the appropriate things β giving adequate distance, not disturbing the whales, and going on smaller boats. Here is a company that we looked into and felt reasonably good about:
San Juan Safaris: Their adventure whale watching tour departs on a small boat, and they donβt promise sightings which suggests they arenβt as focused on hastily traveling to locations where others have already seen whales. They still have a 90%+ sighting rate though, as they acknowledge whales as wild animals so can`t definitively ensure youβll see them
Whale Watching from the Land at Lime Kiln Point State Park
San Juan Island is undoubtedly the optimum location in the world to view orcas from land. I recollect spending numerous hours at Lime Kiln Point conversing with the researchers and gaining knowledge regarding whales and their migratory patterns. And observing orcas constantly.
Presently, the southern resident pod is far smaller, down to approximately 73 whales from around 300. Sightings of those residents have also declined, which is unsurprising. A couple factors are at play, like overfishing of the chinook salmon composing their primary diet, noise pollution rendering communication and hunting difficult, and worsening fertility due to malnutrition. A decade or two ago, sightings were nearly everyday. Currently, not as much.
However, I bring good tidings! You can see transient orcas, who rely less on salmon since they predominantly consume mammals. I happened to glance towards the water while driving along the road south of Lime Kiln on our way to the park. There were four or five boats circled around, and as soon as I saw spouts of water, we pulled over to watch them. From shore, you can get a sense of their scale by comparing the size of their dorsal fins to the boats surrounding them. These are huge creatures!
There is really no βbest time to see whalesβ in terms of time of day, so if you really want to see them Iβd suggest multiple trips out here. Look for blowing or groups of boats, both of which are a good sign that whales are there.
In addition orcas, you are able to see others like humpback and minke whales, sea lions and seals, and bald eagles here also. We were fortunate to observe a seal pup swimming underneath the lighthouse, and also a bald eagle happened to fly past as we were guided over to watch the whales from a stopping point on the side of the road.
Explore American Camp
Down at the southeastern end of San Juan Island is American Camp, which is part of San Juan Island National Historic Park, is the site where the Americans lived in the mid-1800βs after the Americans and British decided to split San Juan Island until they figured out the water boundary. Weβll get to English Camp in the next section, which is up at the northwest corner of the island.
After 15 years, the issue of maritime borders (not to be confused with dangerous interrogation) was resolved, allowing the British to depart (though not prior to a pig`s unfortunate demise nearly igniting warfare between the parties).
The two attractions here that we really enjoyed.”
The initial hike is the loop trail to Mt. Finlayson (4 miles, 450 ft. elevation gain) and down past the lagoons. It starts at this parking area just past the turn to South Beach, and winds along the grassy hillsides, where you will have spectacular views of the Olympic Mountains across the water to the south, and have a good chance of seeing some wildlife. Along this stretch we saw a bald eagle, a snake, and a fox.
Eventually reaching the peak of Mt. Finlayson (enshrouded in fog during our visit) and continuing onward until reaching a left turn taking you back past Third Lagoon and Jakles Lagoon to the parking lot.
The second activity is walking up and down South Beach, a driftwood-lined coast from which youβll have shoreline views across to the mountains on the other aspect of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Explore English Camp
On the opposite side of the island, youβll find English Camp, which is β as you might have guessed! β where the English established camp for that 15 year period of shared occupation of the island.
A notable aspect here is the short but steep hike to the summit of Young Hill. From there, youβll have excellent views overlooking the Haro Strait to Victoria and Vancouver Island. Itβs a fantastic place to watch a sunset.
A helpful suggestion for climbing Young Hill β vehicles can be left where the path intersects the roadway, abbreviating the elevation gain. Be sure to pull completely off the pavement when parking.
Explore Friday Harbor
Friday Harbor is a charming smaller community located on the east side of the island. All ferry riders from the mainland pass through Friday Harbor, so it`s noticeably busier between 9am and 6pm when day visitors explore the island. Still, spending a few hours browsing is worthwhile, and we found some places we think are definitely worth seeing.
- The Whale Museum: We had considered saving the $18 entrance fee (as it costs $9 per person), but the Whale Museum is centrally located in downtown Friday Harbor and contains much data about whales and orcas specifically. Learn about the differences amongst Southern Resident and Transient Orcas, and even adopt one of the Southern Residents! This could serve as a fun activity on a rainy day, or a good option to engage kids.
- Java in Friday Harbor: Firstly, we avoided Salty Fox, the coffee shop directly ahead when departing the ferry. βOh, there`s a long queue, this must be good!β I said as we waited in line for our coffee. I was mistaken. It was quite poor. Even Alyshaβs chai was βamong the worst Iβve had recently.β Alternatively, head over to either the Crowβs Nest, situated directly on Spring Street (the main avenue in Friday Harbor) or over to the Riptide CafΓ©, within the same building as San Juan Safaris. Both were pleasant.
- Grape and Cider Sampling: Head over to Madrone Cellars for some of the finest wine and cider on the island. Both are produced by the same husband-wife duo who relocated to San Juan to cultivate biodynamic wine and cider on the island. Their tasting room is near Spring Street, and is reasonably small and cozy. The cider was exceptional β we ended up purchasing a bottle of the lavender black currant to share with our cider-loving relations at home. You can sample either wine or cider (or both?), or try a glass instead. They`ve planted their own vineyard on the island with the hopes of producing wine from local grapes, presently sourcing grapes mainly from eastern Washington for their wines.
- Griffin Bay Bookstore: We have a strong liking for independent bookstores, and Griffin Bay was our preferred in Friday Harbor (there`s also Serendipity Secondhand Books further along the road).
- Cease and Desist: This beer bar situated on the water focuses on local Washington beers. They have 20+ taps that rotate throughout the year. They also serve cider and wine if you donβt prefer beer (or, like myself, gluten causes issues).
Pelindaba Lavender Farm
In addition to independent bookstores, weβre also attracted to a quality lavender farm. Specifically, Alysha has a strong liking for lavender farms. Especially when thereβs lavender dessert to be consumed.
Pelindaba is the largest name in Pacific Northwest lavender, and Iβve now seen several Pelindaba stores appear throughout western Washington selling all kinds of items made from their lavender.
Their farm on San Juan Island is best in July and early August, which is when the deep violet stuff will be in full bloom. The contrast between the vivid greens and dark purples of the flowering lavender plants will take you back to a time when you were more youthful, seated riveted in front of the tv viewing a big friendly dinosaur sing regarding forming friendships. Just me?
An on-site store carries everything one might need, like insect repellent, gluten free lavender brownie mix, lavender tea, and countless other offerings. Lavender ice cream, iced tea, and lemonade made with lavender also can be obtained from a tent near the field. The lavender ice cream made locally by Lopez Island Creamery receives a personal recommendation.
Spend some time wandering through the lavender fields and seeing the different types (in the summer, of course), enjoy your ice cream, and play some large-scale games like life-size Jenga and cornhole.
Even More Things to Do on the Island
Here are a few more things to do while youβre on the island, in no definitive order.
- The San Juan Island Distilleryis situated near Roche Harbor, where they craft cider, gin, brandy, and liqueurs in a small facility located at the northwest corner of the island. Tastings are presently held on Saturdays from 1-4pm.
- Wine sampling can be done at the San Juan Vineyard, the solitary place where visitors can tour a winery on the island. Itβs just a few miles outside Friday Harbor, and the property is beautifully scenic.
- Farm-fresh shellfish are available from Westcott Bay Shellfish Co if you want to savor some locally harvested shellfish from right there a short distance away. Making a reservation is recommended if you hope to dine outside at one of their waterside tables during the summer β it`s a popular spot.
- Explore the museums: Friday Harbor houses two museums – the San Juan Historical Museum and the San Juan Island Museum of Art. They would make a great rainy day activity.
- Meet some alpacas atKrystal Acres: Alysha greatly admires alpacas and llamas, and our excitement grew when we learned of an alpaca ranch on San Juan Island! We were fortunate to visit the day after two babies were born!
Where to Stay on San Juan Island
We think that the best place to stay on the island depends on what travelers are looking for, and is either going to be in Friday Harbor itself, or on the less crowded west side of the island.
If youβre looking to camp during the summer months, Lakedale Resort is where we stayed (and where we used to pitch tents when I was younger). Itβs in high demand and youβll need to make reservations well in advance to secure a spot. Itβs also very kid-friendly, so if youβre searching for a tranquil getaway, this may not be the best choice. They also have a selection of glamping tents, lodge rooms, and even an Airstream on site if camping isnβt your preferred style.
San Juan County Park also features a handful of campsites on the western region of the island, but the locations are somewhat underwhelming.
Staying in Friday Harbor
Friday Harbor is the primary location for all activities on San Juan Island. It sits on the eastern side where ferries unload all passengers visiting the island. It possesses by far the best selection of restaurants, eateries, shops, and other conveniences like fuel and groceries on the island. As mentioned earlier, this represents the top choice in lodging if one lacks vehicle transportation. The disadvantage is crowds, especially during daytime when a consistent flow of sightseers arrives from the mainland. It`s remarkably tranquil and empty before approximately 9am and after 8pm.
In Friday Harbor, youβve got a few decent hotel choices.”
- Island Inn at 123: This pet-friendly modern facility is directly opposite the main square in Friday Harbor (central roundabout?). Visitors can choose between Euro-style hotel rooms with a shared common space, or private suites providing a little more room to spread out. Penthouses, which are essentially apartments, present another alternative especially suitable for groups.
- Earthbox Inn & Spa: Four blocks up Spring Street from the ferry, this place has both hotel-style rooms and apartments available to rent. Itβs pet-friendly, and even has an indoor pool. Plus, complimentary bicycles. Their sister hotel, the Bird Rock Hotel, is two blocks away, and offers similar amenities in a perfect location.
- Friday Harbor House: If seeking a romantic place to stay in Friday Harbor, this fits the description. Just a couple of blocks from the ferry, this place presents spectacular views. Great scenic outlooks from the deck overlooking the harbor below. Some rooms feature water views, and all rooms include cozy fireplaces. Guests will also receive freshly ground local coffee and a Chemex brewer to make their morning coffee (or Smith Tea, for tea lovers).
Staying on the West Side
Rugged and scenic, the west side of San Juan Island is home to some of the finest whale watching globally, and is decidedly more tranquil than staying in downtown Friday Harbor. The drawback is that amenities are farther away, and youβll likely require a car.
In this stretch of the island, your best bets are going to be the two resorts perched on the western coast.Β
- Snug Harbor Resort: This resort would be our highest suggested accommodation situated on the western side of the island. Youβll find Snug Harbor on Mitchell Bay, north of Lime Kiln Point State Park on the west side of the territory. Accommodations are a blend between rustic and modern styles, with wood paneling adorning vaulted ceilings. Select from their suites, containing full kitchens and some with scenic views, or cabins β both contain one bedroom or two bedroom selections for couples and larger groups. Amenities encompass free kayaks and paddleboards, plus an on-site cafe.
- Roche Harbor Resort: Slightly more upscale, Roche Harbor Resort is a sprawling complex situated at the northwest corner of the island, and offers an extensive variety of lodging options to suit various budgets. They have multiple hotel selections, houses for rental, and historic cottages along the shoreline.
When to Visit
Summer is definitely the best time to visit San Juan Island. Both because the weather is fantastic, and because itβs whale season between May and September, which means visitors have a good chance of seeing either the Southern Resident Orcas, which call this part of the world home year round, or transient Orcas, who are making their way south past the San Juans.
Experiencing the summertime in the San Juans does come with the disadvantage of sizable crowds. Thousands flock to the islands yearly to enjoy the natural beauty and relaxation described earlier. However, as a small community, there is a limit to how many visitors can be supported at once. The town of Friday Harbor in particular sees high traffic, as that is where the ferry delivers and picks up travelers. To escape the hustle and bustle somewhat during summer months, head to the more isolated northern or southern regions of the island. Only a fraction of sightseers make the effort to venture that far.
One detail to be aware of regarding the San Juan Islands is that they receive significantly less precipitation than most other parts of Western Washington owing to the rain-shadow effect and their unique positioning situated between the Olympic Mountains and Vancouver Island. Therefore, while it may be dreary and wet in Western Washington, there is a solid chance that the weather will be sunny in the San Juans. This implies that spring and fall present good times to visit the island, though you likely won`t see whales, and sea kayaking will be a little less pleasant thanks to cool ocean breezes.
Winter is the slower season, and costs will be lower in the San Juan Islands at this time. Temperatures will be cooler and sometimes wet, so choose lodging with a fireplace where you can curl up with good books. As a tourist area, some places will have more closures than during summer. You`ll still find plenty to see and do, though you may face colder or wetter conditions while exploring.
Additional Areas to Visit in Washington State
Visiting the great state of Washington? Here are some additional posts you may appreciate.
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