Church of Panagia Kapnikarea in Athens

by Mary Howard
- June 15, 2024

One of the earliest Orthodox churches in the city, the Church of Panagia Kapnikarea was constructed in the 11th century (potentially 1050) and dedicated to the Virgin Mary (“Panagia”). There are various hypotheses regarding the origin of the name “Kapnikarea,” which is also part of the church’s title. The term may stem from the word “kapnikon,” which was a tax imposed on households during the Byzantine Empire. It could also originate from the surname of the tax collector accountable for the church. It could also be derived from the Greek word “kapnismeno” meaning “smoked,” due to the visible marks on the building left by fires.

This multifaceted building is made up of three separate sections: The main church on the southern side dedicated to the Virgin Mary. On the northern side is a chapel honoring Saint Barbara (Agia Varvara), and on the west side is the entrance hall (narthex).

Archaeological research suggests this Byzantine church was built over an ancient temple (a common practice with early Christian churches), used previously by the ancient Greeks to worship either goddess Athena or Demeter. Over its 1000-year history, this resilient small church has survived several attempts at destruction. It was firebombed by the Ottomans in 1689. In the 19th century, King Otto I of Greece wanted it torn down as it did not align with his architect’s new urban design. Thankfully King Otto’s father, King Ludwig I of Bavaria, objected to the decision and saved the church.

Major restorative effort has been done to the interior’s framework and frescoes, with a few preserved original frescoes and parts of the original interior structure remaining. In the 1940’s, new iconography was developed by Greek painter, Fotis Kontoglou, who studied Byzantine iconography on Mount Athos. Today the church belongs to the University of Athens and continues to be a part of both the city’s history and its daily life.

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea is found in the heart of the busy Ermou shopping street in central Athens, at the cross street of Kapnikarea. Around 300 meters from Monastiraki square and 750 meters from Syntagma square, both plazas and metro stations can easily be reached on foot. The nearest subway station is Monastiraki (lines 1 & 3), approximately 200 meters away.

Panagia Kapnikarea Hours and Information

Operation Hours: 11am-9pm daily, year-round. Greek Orthodox liturgy 7am-10am on Sundays.
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Location: Pl. Kapnikareas 3, Athens
Telephone: +30 210 322 4462
Admission into the location is free; donations to support prayer candles are accepted.
Parking: Street parking, nearby pay lots.
Nearest Metro: Monastiraki.
Notice: modest dress is essential in Greek Orthodox places of worship and holy places, which implies avoiding uncovered knees and shoulders for both women and men. If you’re wearing shorts, a short skirt, or a tank top, covering up with a wrap before going in is suitable and appreciated.