Where to Stay in Folegandros

Our Favorite Hotels in Folegandros

• Luxury hotel: Anemi
• ・ Boutique hotel: Onar
• For families with children: Chora Resort
• For couples: Onar
• Beach hotel: Blue Sand
• Budget hotel: Perigiali

a bench sitting on top of a beach next to the ocean

The Best Areas to Stay in Folegandros

At the southern edge of the Cyclades between Santorini and Milos, Folegandros is a remarkably unspoiled island with dramatic cliffs, pristine beaches, and just three settlements connected by a single paved road with dirt trails branching off to the beaches. The antidote to the overcrowded nightclubs of Mykonos and the jam-packed caldera towns of Santorini, Folegandros retains its authentic charm, blissfully off the beaten path and virtually unknown to international tourists – though people are catching on. The island is tiny, a bit more than 32 square kilometers, and it is possible to walk its full length in about three hours. Travelers do not need a car here. In fact, many of the island’s best beaches, like Katergo and Agios Nikolaos, are accessible only by foot or by boat. Travelers do need to plan their finances in advance since there are no banks in Folegandros, just a few ATMs.

a rocky cliff overlooking a body of water

Rustic and welcoming, Folegandros has no shortage of excellent dining establishments along with a modest nightlife and shops selling handcrafted local products. Visitors will find most of the action in the main village, Chora. Perched 200 meters up on the cliffside with a spectacular view over the sea, Chora is built around three pleasant, leafy squares dotted with centuries-old places of worship and overflowing with authentic tavernas. The iconic Church of Panagia overlooks the village and is the island’s most popular place to watch sunsets. Karavostasis, the main port, is home to some of the island’s best upscale hotels, a handful of superb tavernas and cafes, and serves as the primary departure point for the numerous boat tours exploring the island’s secluded beaches, sea caves, and diving spots. Agali is the most well-known beach destination, set in cove with impressive cliffs towering on each side, plus boat routes and hiking trails leading to tranquil beaches. Ano Meria is the second largest village of Folegandros. However, it’s more of a decentralized collection of terraced farms with some taverns, a market, and chapels scattered around – very rustic and spacious.

a small village on a hillside with mountains

The Best Places to Stay in Folegandros

a white boat sitting on top of a sandy beach

The Best Areas in Folegandros for…

a boat sitting on top of a beach next to the ocean

  • Best Places in Folegandros to Stay for First-Timers: Chora
    The largest and most accommodating village for newcomers to Folegandros is Chora. Here visitors will find a wide scope of lodging, an assortment of dining options extending from upscale to casual, the unique vineyard Domaine Paliomilos, and even some low-key nightlife. The picturesque Church of Panagia sits just above the village, presenting postcard-perfect sunset sights, though there are several other vantage points for dusk for those who prefer to forgo the hike up. Strategically located between Karavostasis and Ano Meria, Chora makes an excellent foundation for exploring the rest of the island
  • Best Places in Folegandros to Stay with Families: Chora, Agali, Karavostasis
    Chora is the most frequented spot for families staying on the island. Not only does it offer a wide collection of accommodations suited for families, but its compact core limited to pedestrians makes it simple for families to stroll to get anything they may require: eateries, food supplies, frozen treats, memorabilia, and medical clinics (the only two on the island). Agali is the most popular beach destination for families. This small settlement has a more easygoing vibe than Chora with a few tavernas and cafes accessible throughout the day and closing fairly early, so you can drift off to the sound of waves at night. A brief, fun boat ride or nature trek west from Agali leads to child-friendly Agios Nikolaos Beach, while hiking south leads to the hidden beach of Fira. Karavostasis is another excellent choice, with straightforward access to the port for sailing and snorkeling excursions; a calm, organized beach served by friendly tavernas; simple walking to three additional beaches (Vardia, Latinaki, and Vitsentzou); and some of the island’s best lavish, family lodgings.
  • Most Romantic Places in Folegandros: Chora, Agali, Ano Meria
    Chora offers elegant eateries for romantic evenings, a cobblestoned center teeming with cafes, a boutique winery, and posh hotels for noteworthy occasions. Sundowns here compete with any in Santorini. Numerous hotels boast here sunset sea views from their rooms or pools, though most couples hike up the hill to the Church of Panagia for a panoramic perspective at minimum once amid their remain. Agali offers a more relaxed alternative for partners. The coast is shielded from the wind with crystal blue waters and a variety of casual tavernas and little hotels. A few beaches are amid hiking distance and even more are accessible by boat. From Agali, there exists an hourly bus assistance to Chora, rendering it effortless to enjoy the coasts by day and venture into town for dinner and a drink. To really get away from everything, partners should head to Ano Meria, a rural town with rolling hills of farmland, authentic tavernas, and hiking trails to some of the island’s most secluded coasts and charming little Aspropournta Lighthouse.
  • Best Places in Folegandros for Beach Vacations: Agali, Karavostasis
    The areas of Agali and Karvostasis offer the best opportunities for seashore vacations on the island of Folegandros. Not only do both locations feature their own organized beaches equipped with dining establishments, but they also provide straightforward access to additional less crowded natural shorelines. Agali Beach is connected to the island`s third managed shoreline, Agios Nikolaos, through a well-traveled hiking path and frequent boat transportation. Those who choose to hike will pass Galifos Beach along the route, an unspoiled shore appreciated by naturists, regardless of the handmade indications asking them to refrain. Heading south from Agali directs one to Fira Beach, a serene, sandy-pebble coastline encountering the west for soothing sunsets. Karavostasis’ principal shore, Chochlidia, is the closest beach to the port yet remains among the most tranquil shorelines in Folegandros with a pebbly bank, clean, transparent water, and nearby tavernas offering nourishment and shelter from the sun. On the opposing side of the headland from the port is Vardia Beach, a sandy, unstructured shore embraced by dramatic precipices. Rather uncovered to the meltemi (dry northerly winds of the Aegean Sea), it can become blustery with choppy waves at times. South along the coastline from the port (a 10-minute stroll) are Latinaki and Vetsentzou Beaches, the two small, sandy, shallow with tranquil water, and practically empty. Just a little farther south (around 20 minutes on foot) is Livadi Beach, a broader, sandier shore with tamarisk trees for shade. From Karavostasis Port, the water taxi runs regularly to Katergo Beach, beloved for its wild, rugged splendor.
  • Best Places in Folegandros to Stay for Nightlife and Restaurants: Chora
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  • Travelers will find high-quality cuisine and beverages throughout the island, but Chora presents the widest assortment. There are no nightclubs in Folegandros, but you’ll discover numerous lively cocktail bars spilling onto the squares and sidewalks of Chora. The primary nightlife strip runs between Saint Nikolaos Church at the northern end and Saints Barbara and Paraskevi Church at the southern end. From north to south, you’ll come across Astarti Bar (renowned for excellent rakomelo and Greek music), Theo Bar (refreshing classic cocktails), Beez Cocktail Bar (exceptional signature cocktails with soul/r&b/reggae music), and Ba Raki (relaxed bar on a charming church square). Laumi and Aquarius both offer creative cocktails in a relaxed environment with excellent music. For wine, Merkouri presents a wide range of Greek varieties, whereas the sole winery of Folegandros, Domaine Paliomilos, delivers tastings and pairings in their historic, 19th-century building. Chora also possesses the broadest choice of restaurants, taverns, bakeries, and cafes on the island, from fine dining at Blue Cuisine to authentic Greek appetizers at To Goupi, from Italian specialists at To Zimaraki to Thai street food and creative cocktails at Tuk Tuk Thai Spirit House. Pounta prepares the finest brunch in Folegandros and presents live music every night. Lotzia is the best kafeneíon (traditional Greek café) for coffee and pastries, particularly the galaktoboureko, a sweet, custard-filled, phyllo dessert

  • Best Places in Folegandros to Stay for a Local Vibe: Ano Meria
    Idyllic Ano Meria is the best location to leave behind the crowds of tourists and obtain a taste of authentic Folegandros life. The village is a loosely joined collection of farms, homesteads, and whitewashed churches. Travelers will immediately notice the terraced fields constructed with stone retaining walls spreading down the hillsides. A few shops and restaurants are scattered here, mostly catering to local preferences. Irini’s, partly taverna and partly mini-market, has been a long-time favorite, as is Sinadisi, the best place to try the island’s specialty, matsata, a handmade pasta served with a red sauce and/or braised rooster, rabbit, or meat. The lone tourist attraction in the area is the Folklore Museum, shedding light on the daily lives of the historic inhabitants of the island.

The 4 Best Places in Folegandros for Tourists

Chora

a patio area with tables, chairs, and umbrellasa blurry picture of a street sign with a bird on it Situated upon a precipice approximately two hundred meters above sea level, Chora represents the largest settlement on the island and serves as a popular lodging option for many visitors due to its diversity of accommodation and dining establishments, relaxed ambiance, and central location. Offering stunning perspectives of the coastal panorama along its cliffside perimeter—particularly from the Church of Panagia overlooking the community and ocean below—the compact core contains several tree-shaded plazas interconnected by narrow, stone-paved lanes closed to vehicular traffic. These areas bustle with busy tavernas, sidewalk cafes, picturesque places of worship, and shops purveying local craftworks. Toward the northern terminus of the village lies Kastro, the oldest sector of Chora initially established by Venetian colonists during the thirteenth century. Comprised of closely congregated whitewashed edifices originally comprising the castle fortifications, the neighborhood currently houses mostly family-operated boutique lodgings, generally moderate in price despite some upscale and budget choices. Situated midway between the port town of Karavostasis and the rural hamlet of Ano Meria, Chora benefits from frequent public transportation linking it to both destinations as well as an intermediary stop, rendering the village an ideal base for exploring the island. Home also to Folegandros`s sole pharmacies and one of only two localities accommodating automated teller machines, indispensable amenities absent from the remainder of the island reinforce Chora`s prominent role.

Karavostasis

people sitting on the beach near the oceanan aerial view of a street sign with a bird on it The small port of Karavostasis sits in a sheltered bay facing south, protected from strong northern winds. Its main beach, Chochlidia (pictured above), has a few taverns and offers one of the calmest settings on the island with a pebbly shore and crystal clear waters that are nearly waveless like a lake. Chochlidia is merely one in a string of beaches lining Karavostasis. The secluded and sandy Vardia Beach is just north at the base of dramatic cliffs, accessible via stairway, while the narrow and peaceful Latinaki and Vitsentzou Beaches and the spacious and sandy Livadi Beach rest further south. A handful of upscale hotels are situated here, such as Anemi, Folegandros’ only five-star resort, along with reasonably priced boutique and budget accommodations. There are fewer dining establishments here than in Chora, but still plenty of excellent options. Sea Sense and Vegera offer sophisticated fine dining with carefully selected wines. For casual meals, Dal Capo is the best cafe at the port, while Akrogiali is the best café on the beach. The main transportation hub of the island, Karavostasis features not only the bus line to Chora, Agali, and Ano Meria at the dock but also hourly water taxis to the rugged Katergo Beach, plus tour boats to sea caverns and otherwise inaccessible beaches. Outside of Chora, Karavostasis is the only location on the island with an ATM

Agali Beach

a person standing on a beach next to a body of watera drawing of a bird flying through the air Agali Beach is considered the most popular beach destination on Folegandros Island. Taking its name from the Greek word for “hug”, Agali Beach truly seems enveloped by the towering cliffs surrounding it. Situated on the southern coast, this sand shore is sheltered from northerly winds by dazzling turquoise waters. Visitors will find a scattering of relaxed tavernas and cafés at the beachfront together with one upscale boutique resort and a handful of friendly low-cost lodgings and rooms to let. A coastal walkway departing Agali connects it to three additional beaches nearby: to the south, tranquil sandy Fira Beach renowned for spectacular sunsets and farther west, Glyfada Beach set within a miniature cove along with pebbly Agios Nikolaos Beach dotted with umbrella-bearing trees and two delicious tavernas. An hourly water taxi services Agios Nikolaos Beach as well as the remote pebbly Livadaki Beach, the latter granting hiking access to a century-old lighthouse, among the largest in the Cyclades archipelago. With frequent bus transport available to the harbor, hilltop Chora village, and inland Ano Meria, private vehicle rental eases island navigation but remains nonessential given public transportation options.

Ano Meria

a brown horse standing on the side of a roada collage of a picture of a person on a cell phone The village of Ano Meria on Folegandros is quite traditional with an active agricultural way of life. There is no centralized core with squares or alleyways. Instead, the farms, churches, and homes are spread across the landscape. Striking are the expanses of farmland where barley is still grown using old methods in terraced areas separated by stone walls sloping down to the sea. Visitors also see the lemon houses, which are walled, usually circular or square shelters for individual lemon trees protected from strong winds. Most dwellings here are themonies, self-sufficient farm complexes with threshing floors built from local stone and earth, blending into the environment to avoid notice from raiders in the past. For insight into local farm life, visit the Folklore Museum, a beautifully restored themonia. Though restaurants are sparse, locals especially appreciate trying dishes like matsata, handcrafted pasta ribbons cooked in a tomato-based sauce typically with braised rabbit, rooster, or goat. Sinadisi (with superb views) and Irini’s (a staple taverna) offer the best opportunities to sample regional fare. Maragkoudiko serves up superb Greek grill specialties like souvlaki and gyros while Under the Palm Tree is a top spot for breakfast and brunch. Also not to be missed is the rustic bakery tucked away on a pedestrian lane off the main road, baking amazing treats including kalasouna pie (caramelized onions and goat cheese) and karpouzopita (watermelon pie). A vehicle is not completely necessary since there is regular bus transport but it certainly adds convenience for exploring more of the island.

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Welcome to my travel website! I’m Mary Howard, an American who has been exploring the world full-time for 8 years.

Together with my husband, Intan, we often find ourselves in our second home, Bali, but our adventures take us to exciting destinations all over the globe.

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