Where to Stay in New Caledonia

Best Places to Stay in New Caledonia

a large body of water with a blue sky

Located on the southern edge of Melanesia, New Caledonia remains under French control but is only a short flight from Australia and New Zealand. Sometimes spelled New-Caledonia and translated as Nouvelle Calédonie, the territory`s history, cuisine, and language remain predominantly French. Receiving substantial funds from Paris and containing vast deposits of nickel, some visitors are pleasantly surprised by how modern and western it is – especially after travelling to Fiji, Tonga or Vanuatu. Roads are abundant and well-paved, rarely impacted by weather, and bus services are reliable and comfortable. However, this all comes at a cost, as exchange rates follow the Euro and prices are high – in some cases even exceeding those in France itself.

New Caledonia offers the standard delights of a Pacific paradise such as magnificent beaches, lush landscapes, and traditional villages. However, it also boasts a 1,600km reef, the world`s largest following the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, in addition to a lagoon which is undoubtedly the planet`s most expansive, and arguably the most extraordinary. Furthermore, the tourism sector is pleasingly developed, catering to both residents and visitors, providing outstanding opportunities for adventure like scuba diving, hiking, mountain biking, and water sports which are rarely found elsewhere in Melanesia.

Literally meaning Big Land, Grande Terre is the location where nearly all inhabitants live and where the majority of visitors travel. Measuring approximately 400km long but averaging only 60km wide, it contains a central mountain range reaching heights up to 1,600m separating coastlines. The capital city, Noumea, and its extended surrounding suburbs are home to around 170,000 people, accounting for roughly two-thirds of the region`s population who principally have French ancestry. With architecture dating back to colonial times, middle-class suburban areas, and somewhat disorderly docks, the city center provides enough museums, markets, and places of worship to casually explore, but most guests tend to spend time at the world renowned beaches near the suburbs of Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons.

Stretching off the southern coast of Grande Terre is Île des Pins (Island of Pines), also known to citizens as Kunié. With lagoons containing waters of turquoise hue, coral cliffs, and of course, pines outnumbering palms, it’s hugely popular as a romantic getaway. The only other islands of note consist of the 3 atolls containing sandy beaches, deep bays, and remarkable cliffs that make up the Loyalty Islands: Maré, Lifou and Ouvéa.

The indigenous Kanak people permeate the city, towns and villages, with traditional customs still proudly ongoing in more remote areas. First `discovered` over two centuries ago by the British but administered by the French since 1853, New Caledonia has endured a troubled past and potentially faces an uncertain future. By mid-2018, the populace continued preparing for an imminent referendum on independence, not helped by persistent disagreements around whether recently settled French residents should be permitted a vote.

The Best Places To Stay in New Caledonia

a beach with a row of umbrellas on top of it

  • Best Region for Beaches: Maré (Loyalty Islands)
    It is difficult to choose just one beach as the best in Maré Island, but perhaps the finest example is Maré Island. Along the southern bay, Wabao has everything one could want: an extended stretch of pure white sands with calm, shallow, and light blue waters overflowing with colorful fish seemingly within easy reach of the shore. Most beaches around Maré are only accessible by foot, ensuring they remain remarkably undeveloped, and often completely deserted. One of the more accessible is Ekure, at the end of an easy hiking trail; more remote and Crusoe-esque is the beach at Buhnetine. In addition to clusters of thatched bungalows, local tourist authorities promote the opportunity to stay at a ‘tribal homestay’
  • Best Area for Diving & Snorkeling: Ouvéa (Loyalty Islands)
    Despite boasting the world`s largest lagoon and the second largest coral reef (which more or less encircles New Caledonia), scuba diving has not been developed or embraced as enthusiastically as in Fiji or Vanuatu. This is likely because there are so many other activities across the entire region to partake in. As part of the Loyalty Islands, Ouvéa competes with Maré as the ideal beach destination, but is also superb for underwater exploration. The lagoon is exquisite, dotted with small islands and backed by coral cliffs. Diving arrangements are convenient among caves and reefs, but there is also plenty to see with just a snorkel and mask. What`s more, a bit of time and effort will reward hikers/snorkelers with freshwater pools teeming with turtles.
  • Best Region for Outdoor Activities: Province Sud (South Province) of Grande Terre Island
    The capital city provides an extraordinary range of activities within a short distance. Not too costly in comparison to places like Fiji or Tonga, they are well-advanced and secure – for local residents especially French expatriates as well as visitors. These include hiking among forests sprinkled with waterfalls along neatly laid out routes that can also be traversed by mountain-bike; kayaking among creepy woods of dead trees; exploring national parks teeming with rare and endemic birds; and watching whales (July to September) along the southeast coast.
  • Prime Spot for Water Activities: Baie de la Moselle (centre of Noumea)
    Individuals who enjoy time on their yachts do not need to dock in remote or potentially risky areas because Noumea is surrounded by marinas overflowing with boats of many types, mostly possessed by affluent local residents. One of the most convenient is at Baie de la Moselle, known for its significant depth, tranquil waters, secure setting, and proximity to numerous amenities. Simple trips by boat from Noumea incorporate the idyllic Île des Pins island around 3 hours away, and lovely islets like Île aux Canards and Îlot Maître are within just a few minutes of the marina. And while savoring lattes or gulping beers in the city`s trendy cafés, fellow yachters happily share guidance about sailing along the elongated coasts of Grande Terre and across to the magical Loyalty Islands.
  • Top Shopping Destination: Noumea
    Style-conscious, with many affluent residents and French visitors, Noumea features classy boutiques selling imported high-end brand goods at prices matching Paris. And as a major city, several sizeable shopping centers with more reasonably priced shops can be found. Surprising is the extensive Moselle Markets, open from 5am to midday every day (except Monday), which offers a wonderful variety of fruit, vegetables, flowers, and fish. Also for sale are those tasty pastries the French are so fond of, and clothes and traditional handicrafts. And a vast fascinating flea market is held on Sundays twice a month at the main city park, Place des Cocotiers.
  • The best region for food and restaurants is Baie des Citrons in Noumea.
  • The communities extending south from downtown for several kilometers to the shoreline neighborhoods of Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons. The latter is delightfully underdeveloped, with much more of the promenade lined with stylish bistros than high-end resorts. And the remarkable variety mirrors the multicultural character of the territory, with cafes offering Vietnamese, Chinese, Italian, Japanese, and naturally, French cuisine. But be forewarned: costs regularly match those expected in France because of European-level wages, and so much needs to be imported. .”

  • Best Region for Families: Anse Vata (Noumea)
    Two beachside suburbs less than a quarter hour by bus from downtown Noumea, Anse Vata offers a loveable tropical island beach atmosphere. The tranquil lagoon waters are safe for swimming and ideal for kayaking and snorkeling. Furthermore, the beach is spacious, clean and consists of sand. Amenities around Anse Vata include arcades lined with fascinating shops as well as many eateries and bakeries. Supermarkets are also present, important if self-catering. Moreover, the alluring islets just offshore are easy to reach by boat. In addition, the fun tchou tchou train ambles around the esplanade and backstreets. Several family-friendly resorts offer a children`s pool as well as activities for younger ones in addition to packaged deals. Numerous travel agencies and the helpful tourist office can assist with exploration of the island. And Anse Vata is approximately three-quarters of an hour from the international airport
  • Best Region for Night Activities: Center of Noumea
    The majority of evening activities on the island are found in the capital city. Options for dining include a trendy bistro near the Latin Quarter or Chinatown; socializing at a fashionable harbor-side pub; watching a cabaret or musical performance; or testing one`s luck at a casino. Families may prefer seeing a movie at Cinecity, or participating in one of the many festivals that usually occur between May and October during the drier season. Younger visitors will be ready to explore the hippest new nightclubs after 22:00 hours.
  • The top region for vibrant culture and atmosphere is La Fao
  • As expected, the further away from Noumea the better the opportunity to meet authentic Kanak people who live in traditional villages and practice tribal customs. But it is still possible to experience Kanak culture at La Fao, only 110km from the capital. Steeped in history, the likeable town is now a hangout for arty expats, a regional center for farmers, and a gateway to several national parks. The Kanak culture and genuine Caledonian Cowboy vibe can be experienced at the Saturday markets, nearby villages like Sarraméa, home to 3 tribes, and Farino, perched in the mountains.

  • Most Romantic Destination: Îles des Pins Island
    Situated on the southern coast of Grand Terre island, it`s difficult to envision a more picturesque locale, with turquoise lagoons safeguarded by UNESCO, pristine beaches dotted with sloping palms, and of course the eponymous pines. Coral outcroppings protruding into the waters that can only be accessed by traditional outrigger canoes, amiable villages that still retain deeply conservative values, significant historical ruins and vanilla plantations to explore, and breathtaking elevated perspectives. Firmly targeting the honeymoon market, there are family-operated and traditional-style bungalows just meters from the sand, and 5-star resorts providing luxury and intimacy.

The Best Regions in New Caledonia for Tourists

a house with a lawn chair and a balcony

Noumea – City Center

The capital retains a Melanesian essence, but mostly resembles a coastal town in France. The downtown region is home to various marinas packed with boats lined up, and there are adequate museums, churches, markets, and gardens to occupy visitors for a day or two. There aren’t too numerous hotels, but plenty of boutiques and eateries. Parts are fairly rundown, particularly around the dockyards, with massive naval vessels just offshore, and abandoned shopping areas. The city center is undoubtedly worth exploring, but remaining overnight? Most visitors decide instead to base themselves at one of the 2 suburban beaches.

Noumea – Beaches

Unique among capitals across the South Pacific, the suburbs of Noumea reach southward along the coastline and finish at two excellent beaches: Baie des Citrons (Bay of Lemons) and Anse Vata. Both are typical tourist havens with multi-star resorts, fashionable boutiques, elegant eateries, and abundant activities. These include a shuttle train traversing the streets and boat excursions to idyllic offshore islands seen from the beaches: the uninhabited Amédéé dominated by a lighthouse; Île aux Canards (Duck Island); and Îlot Maître commandeered by the resort L’Escapade Îlot Maître resort. Yet both beaches are merely 10 to 15 minutes away by public transportation from the city center.

Around Grand Terre Island

Province Nord (North Province)

This region is truly where cowboys reside, with bushmen riding equines across the vast plains. There are mountains, rainforests, waterfalls, fresh drinking springs, and tribal villages that uphold customs from centuries ago, but some of the pristine landscape and fertile land have been scarred by the mines extracting nickel that support the country`s economy. Along the rugged northwest coast are two interesting and accessible towns with lodging: Koné, the provincial capital city; and Koumac, a mining community with a popular marina. The more appealing northeast coast offers meandering rivers, scenic inlets of empty beaches, and friendly villages, with amenities and lodging available in Poindimié and Hienghène.

Province Sud (South Province)

The southern half of the main island is more developed than the north due to its proximity to Noumea and the airport, but the terrain does become wilder and the villages less populated further south. Within a daytrip of the capital, many charming towns offer traditional Kanak culture, a rural ambience where bushmen stock up on supplies or sell produce, colonial-era architecture, and facilities expected in rural France. The historic town of La Foa boasts an artistic flair and is the departure point for exploring national parks, while other popular stops and bases providing accommodation include Bourail, Sarraméa, and Farino (in the mountains). And the region offers an astonishing array of adventure activities.

Île des Pins

Administratively part of the southern province of Grande Terre, the Island of Pines seems to have a very different atmosphere from other locations. Surrounded by an incredibly beautiful lagoon, with tranquil, shallow, and light blue waters bordered by pale sandy shores, it`s known to local residents as Kunié. It also offers swimming and snorkeling in crystal clear springs; charming colonial era buildings (including remnants from a previous time as a penal institution); and canoe trips among remarkable coral formations. And the island is understandably popular among newlyweds and those seeking the quintessential romantic escape. Barely 20 minutes by air, or 3 hours by boat from Noumea, most facilities and lodging are around Kuto rather than the administrative center of Vao.

Loyalty Islands

The sole island cluster worthy of note in New Caledonia is the Loyalty Islands. They offer even more sapphire-tinted lagoons, perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking, as well as daring activities such as scuba diving, rock climbing, hiking, and cave exploration. The landscape includes coral cliffs, verdant forests, deep bays, tribal villages, and deserted beaches. Visiting comparable islands elsewhere in Melanesia would involve rough boats, difficult roads, and rudimentary lodging, but not across this trio of majestic islands.

On Maré, it’s not difficult to wander off well-known routes and unexpectedly come across picturesque shorelines, dramatically towering cliffs overlooking the sea, and inland pools filled by natural springs perfect for swimming. Most site visitors reside in or near the principal town of Tadine, while the majority of locals live in isolated and highly traditional villages. Lifou provides comparable experiences but is significantly larger in both area and population count. The primary center, Wé, additionally acts as the administrative capital for the entire island chain, and is home to a wider assortment of facilities and historic structures. On Ouvéa, the beaches are equally exquisite, and the waters ideal for diving and snorkelling. Narrow and sparsely-inhabited, there is no real central location, so amenities have limited availability and are spread farther apart.

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Welcome to my travel website! I’m Mary Howard, an American who has been exploring the world full-time for 8 years.

Together with my husband, Intan, we often find ourselves in our second home, Bali, but our adventures take us to exciting destinations all over the globe.

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