Throughout our tour across the cities of Ragusa, Modica, Avola and Noto in Southeast Sicily, we will share with you about the two days we spent exploring the deep and authentic Sicily. The Sicily that can truly only be experienced by living alongside Sicilians for 48 hours.
We were fortunate that some acquaintances welcomed us to spend two days with them so we could gain a little more understanding about the lifestyle of the island. They lived in Giarratana, a town that could be perfectly any small community that we have in Spain.
As soon as we entered their home, the smell of Sicily flooded us. We were welcomed with fantastic homemade Sicilian cuisine; baked onions (cipollas) for which Giarratana is famous in Sicily – some onions are the size of a small melon – and an exceptionally homemade tiramisu that was the best we tried during our 10-day tour around Sicily.
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WHAT TO SEE IN SOUTHeast SICILY
Our two-day route through Southeast Sicily incorporated the baroque towns of Ragusa, Modica and Noto. We also appreciated the coastal town of Ávola and the Cavagrande del Cassibile canyon.
This was the distribution:
- Lunch in Giarratana (where our Sicilian acquaintances lived)
- Afternoon scene in Ragusa, Italy
- Evening in Modica
- A dinner in Palazzolo Acreide.
- Morning in Cavagrande del Cassibile
- An afternoon in Ávola
- Night in Noto
RAGUSA
It is impossible to discuss Ragusa without referring to the catastrophe that impacted the city. In 1693 a earthquake measuring 7.4 on the magnitude scale caused thousands of buildings to collapse and resulted in the loss of 10,000 lives. This earthquake affected not only Ragusa, but all the Southeast Sicily villages. It is even documented that the movement generated a tsunami that impacted the Aeolian Islands ( Stromboli).
The roads of Ragusa tell this story on their own. The hilltop town is split into the old Ragusa that was demolished by the disaster, Ragusa Ibla, and the one that arose above the hill as a fresh start, New Ragusa.
During the afternoon we spent there, we only had time to amble around Ragusa Ibla, the old town.
First, we visited the Duomo di San Giorgio and then we took in the view from a terrace overlooking the hill.
To conclude our brief visit to Ragusa, we found a local store of crafts made by artisans, called Paniere di Sicilia. Whether you go with the intention of buying or not, I suggest you enter the establishment, as it appears more like a museum than a local store.
Additionally, we were able to sample everything available, and the standards of quality and kindness of the host were exceptional.
Without a doubt, the finest of all we obtained was a pistachio pesto with an unforgettable flavor.
Modica
Our next destination was Modica. It was a brief but essential visit for me, hooked on chocolate. Modica is a benchmark in the cocoa industry. The style of chocolate created here is made by processing without heat, using the same recipe practiced by the Aztec people. While the flavor can be similar to any quality chocolate, the texture is completely distinct.
During the making of this cocoa dough is not melted, consequently resulting in a granular final texture. I suggest trying it at the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily established in 1880. The decoration is beautiful and impressive, allowing you to sample various flavors such as with salt, chili pepper, pistachio, 100% black, etc.
Following the tasting, we strolled through Modica. As happened with Ragusa, the earthquake of 1693 destroyed the city. Literally all the structures standing date from the period after the earthquake. For instance, the Duomo di San Pietro, of which construction commenced 4 years after the earthquake. It exhibits the baroque style of all the cities that were rebuilt.
During our walk, we took in the opera playing from a playground and followed its sound. Suddenly, we discovered ourselves in an art exhibition. The soprano who brought the works to life was none other than the neighbor upstairs. She, purely by coincidence, animated the gallery that was filled with people trapped within her song.
And Sicily did not quit astonishing us for a lone day. At the nearly unexpected instant, as in a courtyard of a chipped building, you can find magic.
PALAZZOLO ACREIDE
To conclude our initial day spent with our Sicilian companions, we partook in an evening meal at an eatery situated in a community very nearby to Giarratana, Palazzolo Acreide.
We dined in a terrace of a traditional pastry shop, Pasticceria Caprice that impressed us with its arancini and the tasty Cannoli Gelato.
RISERVA NATURALE ORIENTATA CAVAGRANDE DEL CASSIBILE
The next morning we arose early. We were eagerly anticipating the plan that our friends had prepared for us for the day: exploring the Riserva Naturale Orientata Cavagrande del Cassibile.
It is a gorge through which runs the channel of a turquoise waterway that in summer is full of Sicilians seeking fresh water to beat the heat. The trail involves no difficulties being all downhill. In half an hour we were in the river. However, they know the area so well that managed to take us to a part of the river where we were alone all morning.
The landscape possessed ideal natural features, including clear water framed by verdant flora under mountainous backdrops.
We enjoyed ourselves jumping from one body of water to another like happy children at play.
I believe it was the sole day of the trip that we truly had a rest. Following a sandwich including Mozzarella, tomato and basil prepared by our friends, we laid down under some trees. So numerous days of travel made us require a moment similar to that. Once we woke up, we took the last bath and went back up the canyon for our next destination: Ávola
ÁVOLA
Ávola is a coastal town located in Southeast Sicily. The most beautiful beach there, the Spiaggia Del Gelsomineto is also the shore of the mouth of the Riserva Naturale Orientata Cavagrande del Cassibile river; the same where we had bathed hours before. Although it was very late in the afternoon the beach was bustling.
The extremely shallow waters and fine sand make it perfect for spending the day with family. It is not much visited by tourists. However, all people from the Southeast Sicily towns come to this beach in the hot months to enjoy the crystal clear waters.
Besides being known for its wine, the Nero d`Avola, what I enjoyed most in Ávola was not the wine but the Dolcemente Piccante option: the Arancino Nero d`Avola.
If you enjoy Arancini, I promise you will love this. The flavor from the wine blended with rice and ricotta was the greatest culinary discovery of the trip. It was difficult to opt for one of the delights that we tasted because everything in Sicily is spectacular.
Here we also tried the Chinotto, a cola drink made in Sicily since 1920. It resembles coke but the flavor is quite different. I did not prefer the taste too much, but I really enjoyed experimenting with this historic beverage and discovering there are more items beyond the classic extended coke.
NOTO
And finally we arrived at the last stop to conclude the two days we spent exploring Southeast Sicily: Noto, the stone garden or the Sicilian Baroque Jewel, as it is also known.
I am uncertain if it will be as beautiful during the day as at night, but under the lights of classic street lamps, there in an overwhelming beauty around this city. Noto is splendid on each of the facades of the baroque buildings. Possibly the story will resonate with you. Like Ragusa and Modica (and practically all the cities of Southeast Sicily), Noto was destroyed by the earthquake of 1693.
On this occasion we ventured not to the former district but rather to the reborn new one. There, the architects put forth their best efforts to rebuild the city according to the aesthetic standards of that era. They succeeded in elevating Noto to the summit in terms of Baroque art. Noto represents the finest example of Sicilian Baroque style, and thus Italian style, globally.
As an inexperienced observer on this topic, I was able to identify the distinguishing concave lines that characterize Sicilian Baroque architecture through the helpful insights shared by acquaintances.
Every corner of the different fronts contains extremely intricate details. The city itself is a museum, where the sole cost is keeping your eyes as open as possible to avoid missing any small detail.
During the summer nights, the city vibrates with energy. Crowds of visitors gather on the steps of the Cattedrale di Noto, the city’s pulse point.
However, exploring the less busy streets can also be an interesting experience.
BAROQUE SICILY WITH LOCAL people
Following reading this article, you can understand that for us, the two-day route we took through Southeast Sicily was the best part of our trip. Perhaps we did not visit so many renowned monuments and landmarks, or we didn’t saw so many points of interest, but traveling accompanied by locals who open themselves up and worry about showing you their culture is invaluable.
I invite you to try making friends wherever you go, either in the cities of Sicily known for Baroque architecture or anywhere else in the world.
- Recommended accommodation: Spend the night at La Picota, a warm and welcoming residence where you can relax in tranquility.
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