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Cayo Jutías is regarded as the finest beach in Cuba amongst all we surveyed. It’s untamed, distant, abundant with life… Its light blue waters become pink at sundown, something not many realize about. Its white sand is overwhelming initially. A sanctuary for those who understand where to search for it, and one of the most lovely places to go to in Cuba.
Photographs seen previously failed to convey its true character.
BUT, WHAT IS A CAYO (KEY)?
A Cayo, or Key in English, denotes a low-lying, sandy island formed on coral grounds. Common throughout the Caribbean and Antilles seas.
To access some of them, boats must be used. However, others are so near to the main coast of Cuba that they connect naturally with the main island of Cuba or through bridges and pathways.
The ecosystem in the keys is usually quite fragile due to its small size. Cayo Jutías, for instance, owes its name to a large rodent called “Jutía” that inhabits Cuban trees, but is now nearly extinct.
While organizing our travels, we considered whether to venture to this island or to Cayo Levisa. Both are accessible from Viñales.
With only 15 days to visit Cuba, we chose Cayo Jutías for the reasons below:
We decided to camp in Yosemite. We chose Camp 4, since it is a historic spot, no reservation is required and it is also very low-cost. If you are considering this option, I recommend you read our article on where to lodge in Yosemite.
- We would save time and money by going to Cayo Jutías since we would have had to take transport via boat to go to Cayo Levisa.
- Although they had told us that it would be implausible to rest at Cayo Jutías, our original plan was to endeavor to lodge there overnight. Therefore, we did not know if we would utilize one or two days of our excursion, leaving us without time to behold both keys.
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HOW TO GET TO CAYO JUTiAS
Locating a shared transportation that takes you to Cayo Jutías from Viñales is quite simple. At the entrance of the Viazul station in Viñales, there are drivers offering transportation who propose sharing a seat for 15 CUC roundtrip. You merely need to agree with them on the day before regarding departure time and cost.
What we found to be impossible was finding a driver who did not mind returning once the sun had set. The road to Cayo Jutías is in incredibly poor condition. So poor that they ultimately removed the entry fee to access the beach due to complaints heard from tourists. It was unimaginable that they charged for crossing a pot-holed road in terrible disrepair.
Because the taxi drivers must maintain their automobiles for over thirty years, they are not able to risk encountering a breakdown by traveling in the darkness on these roadways. If you are fortunate, some will wait until six o`clock in the evening. Most of them would have already left the island by four o`clock in the afternoon, and it is not late enough to enjoy an incredible sunset in Cayo Jutías, the prime period of the day.
Despite having booked a round trip, something within me knew that we would not return with the taxi driver at 6. I sensed an adventure, even though Dani had already resigned himself to missing the sunset.
Top things to do in cayo jutías – THE best BEACH IN CUBA
LANDING IN CAYO JUTÍAS
We arrived at Cayo Jutías around 10 in the morning, after spending an hour and a half packed in a shared taxi. The beach was quite pleasant, but truthfully, it did not meet our expectations. An overabundance of people filled the blue water and white sand. A snack bar, two bars, plenty of hammocks and parasols ultimately completely modified my notion of a perfect beach.
If crowds congregating leisurely on the coastline interest you, you will delight in this shoreline similar to a child. However, it did not align with what we sought. Experiencing minor disappointment, we wandered to the seaside, and from there we noticed a small tent hidden among some bushes. This came as a big astonishment since we had assumed you could not camp in Cuba until that moment. We eagerly moved to converse with the inhabitants.
They turned out to be two very pleasant Spanish girls who were journeying throughout South America over the next 4 months. They affirmed to us that you indeed can camp in Cuba. They had been doing so all around the island for a month without facing any issues.
At that time, we regretted not carrying a tent with us. Fortunately, they told us that guards would watch the beach bars during the night, and would inform us where we could sleep if we asked. They believed the guards may have a tent to lend.
Emotions were difficult to contain. Especially because I had informed the skeptical Dani that we would not be returning to Viñales that day, and now we know I was right. But the good news did not end there. They failed to mention that towards the southwest at the end of the key, one would discover a shore with a massive starfish.
THE ROUTE to the secret beach
At once, we headed to uncharted lands with the dream of finding that distant shore we had been told about. As soon as you move past the beachside bars, the landscape changes dramatically. Tanglements of decaying mangroves made it difficult for us to traverse. I will never forget those grayish trunks breaking the waves.
Despite the extreme natural beauty, walking in such climatic situations can present a genuine test. At times, the mangroves would force us into the water until it covered our knees.
Occasionally a road veered inland from the coast. There, we passed near a lagoon where millions of crabs cleared a path for us with a loud roar.
The worst part was crossing a dense Pine forest where mosquitoes nearly swarmed us. If taking this route, bringing insect repellent is more crucial than anywhere else in Cuba to avoid bug bites.
Many times, we came across smaller beaches that tempted us to abandon the idea of locating that giant starfish and halt our journey on foot.
THE PARADISE – THE BEST BEACH OF CUBA
After an hour of walking, the route cleared and we entered a place of delight just as we were on the verge of giving up. Undoubtedly this is the finest beach in Cuba.
A private paradise, where the sole sound was the waves of the sea.
As soon as we entered the water, we found what we were looking for. Starfish like we’ve never seen before.
DO NOT KILL THE STARFISH
I know starfish are beautiful, but please do not remove them from the water to take pictures since they can perish. It is the equivalent sensation as if someone had submerged us under water to take a picture.
Starfishes require being submerged in water to breathe. Out of water, they perish from intoxication. Additionally, being subjected to constant handling by tourists can lead to death by stress.
Act responsibly and do not remove a starfish from the water – respect for the environment and conservation is paramount, especially in sensitive areas like this where tourism is becoming more common.
We explored the immense shoreline repeatedly in total seclusion and beneath a scorching sun. Be sure to bring sun protection if venturing to this beach since there is no shade.
We came across a huge empty seashell in its natural state.
As we swam, we saw and felt crabs that are fairly sizable. We also saw some jellyfish, but thankfully, they only appeared at the end of the day.
The return trip went much faster, I suppose because the mosquitoes did not emerge.
where to stay IN CAYO JUTÍAS
BRIBING THE NIGHT GUARDS
We arrived at the main beach at around 5 in the afternoon, and to our surprise, it was virtually empty. There were only our taxi companions, with whom we had agreed that we would depart at 6.
The females we encountered in the morning had informed us that sentries designated for night watch had shown up.
Prior to last call, we purchased a bottle of rum from Havana (8 CUC) with the aim of persuading the night watchmen.
It really was unnecessary. The guards seemed to think it great to have company for that night. I got the impression that every day there is an explorer who refuses to depart paradise in the afternoon and seeks sanctuary.
They graciously welcomed us without any trouble, but mentioned the tent was broken, meaning we would have to sleep in the bathroom of the bar.
With ample time to take the taxi back, we did not think about it anymore. We opted to stay and watch the sunset and sleep in the bathroom rather than miss the whole show.
SUNSET AT CAYO JUTÍAS
We struggled to believe that we had managed to locate a place to rest in Cayo Jutías, we went searching for the ultimate viewing location to watch the sun disappear.
And it could not possibly be situated anywhere else other than among the dead mangrove trees. It was close enough to the beachfront bar that we did not have to walk back in the darkness. Moreover, seeing the roots take on a pink hue with the illumination of the sunset was an experience we had been anticipating since first setting foot on that shoreline.
The sole difficulty were the thick clouds that threatened to ruin the presentation.
However, the clouds parted as the show began, affording us one of those unique moments in life.
AROUND A BOTTLE OF RUM
The sun went down and we returned to the beach bar. This time it was closed to the public.
We all shared a meal together – the guards, the Spanish girls who were still camping in the area, and our group. We passed around the rum and spent a delightful time recounting anecdotes from our trips to amazed guards, who were thrilled to learn about life outside the island.
During our time there, we also took the opportunity to learn more about their local customs. It truly ended up being a wonderful evening. We were surprised that they did not have a flashlight for their work as night guards, so we decided to lend them ours.
While we finished the bottle of rum as night fell, Dani went to capture some nighttime images. With no nearby population centers, the sky was adorned with a stunning tapestry of stars.
THE RAREST place WHERE WE HAVE SLEPT
When Dani returned, we requested the guard show us where to rest. He informed us to take two hammocks and situate them in the lavatory of the bar. He also loaned us some towels and pieces of fabric for us as covers. I did not sleep the whole night, but I do not regret the experience whatsoever.
What we regret was not having carried a tent. If we did, we would have slept on the beach where the starfish was. And of course, we would have made a bonfire, as it was done before per ruminants of an old one.
Sleeping outdoors is not advised as mosquitoes that transmit disease, such as those observed in Playa Ancón, pose real dangers at night. Therefore, I share how to purchase travel insurancesince it is essential when visiting locations such as Cuba. If planning an extended stay in the Caribbean, I recommend long-duration travel coverage.
If I must be clear about something, it is that when I return to Cuba, it will be with a tent. In this country, it seems an essential thing for enjoying all its nature.
THE BEACH OF THE EAST
The following morning, we had breakfast at one of the bars. They charged us 8 CUC for two natural papaya drinks and two cheese sandwiches.
Then, we had to decide whether to revisit the beach of the starfish or cross over to the other side of the beach towards the east.
Although the beach littered with starfish tempted us to return, we wanted to explore all of Jutías Key, so we continued our walk to the other beach.
The scenery differs from what you find heading in the opposite direction. The mangroves appear greener but simultaneously, there are more individuals present.
If you walk a slight distance, you will discover the parking area. There, taxi drivers frequently await until it’s time to pick up passengers. At a certain point, the vegetation no longer permitted advancing, establishing it as the route that can be completed much more quickly in this direction than towards the opposing beach.
This beach has significantly fewer people than the main beach. However, it cannot match the beauty or natural surroundings of the beach at the end of the key.
If you do not feel like walking for as long as necessary to arrive at the beach of the starfish and do not want to be surrounded by other sunbathers, I recommend coming to this one instead.
Additionally, there are vendors selling freshly-caught fare though bars are absent. For example, Dani bought lobster broiled over hot coals for 9 CUC. He described it as the finest lobster tasted.
THE RETURN TO CIVILIZATION
We had no means to return to Viñales as the original agreement with the taxi driver was to come back on the preceding day. Therefore, at 4, we went to where we had left the taxi to see if there was somebody else with an unoccupied seat, or even better if there was a tourist with a rental car who wouldn’t mind driving us back to Viñales.
We didn’t have to worry about the taxi. Within 3 minutes, we found a Swiss couple who offered to transport us to Viñales.
My recommendation to individuals seeking to sleep at the key, is to privately negotiate a one way fare solely between Viñales – Cayo Jutías with taxi operators.
Upon returning to our private home in Viñales after failing to sleep at our lodging the night before, our host lady expressed concern for us due to our absence. When we recounted our tale to them, they playfully nicknamed us the Hermits of Cayo Jutias.
