Is there a better way to spend a morning than hiking past a gorgeous waterfall and climbing through the brush with views of not one, but two active volcanoes? The Tama Lakes track takes you through a beautiful, desolate landscape where you’ll have simultaneous views of Mount Ngāuruhoe, the inspiration for Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings films that Peter Jackson made, and Mount Ruapehu basically the entire way through.
For what it’s worth, we fully enjoyed this hike. We did it the day before the more popular Tongariro Alpine Crossing (a must for keen hikers on your North Island itinerary, in our view), and we think it’s a really solid choice over hiking the Crossing, which is a much more difficult trek that necessitates a lot of advance planning (like a $50 shuttle to complete the point-to-point hike).
If you don’t have the time, fitness level, or appetite to spend $50 NZD per person on the shuttle, we’d point you towards the Tama Lakes Track!
This guide aims to provide a comprehensive overview of hiking the Tama Lakes track in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand. Details covered include the hiking route, starting and ending points, logistical information, and important things to be aware of before embarking on the trek.
Our goal here is that, by the end of this guide, you’ll have all the information needed to be prepared to safely and confidently tackle the Tama Lakes track in Taranaki National Park.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we don’t stand behind 100%.
Table of Contents
Hiking the Tama Lakes Track: Trail Details
- Length: 16.9 km / 10.5 miles
- Increase in Elevation: 518 meters / 1,700 feet
- Trail Layout: Lollipop (reverse)
- Difficulty: Moderate / Hard
- Trail Head: Taranaki Falls Lower Track
- Dog Friendly? No
The Route for the Tama Lakes Track
The route for this hike is essentially a backward lollipop, starting with one part of a loop that initiates at the trailhead and concludes at Taranaki Falls, where you’ll jump on a spur trail that takes you out to Lower Tama Lake.
From Lower Tama Lake, it’s a brief yet intense climb up to a ridge, where breathtaking views extend over both Lower and Upper Tama Lake and, if fortunate, both volcanoes.
When tackling this hike, we followed the loop portion in a clockwise direction, starting with a steady climb through forest before reaching Taranaki Falls after the scenery opened up.
To optimize the experience, hike the loop clockwise as we did, as it means seeing Taranaki Falls from below initially. Going the opposite way would prevent sighting the waterfall until the descent when tiredness sets in.
It is preferable to see Taranaki Falls while still full of energy and enthusiasm as the natural wonder is scenic in its own way.
Undertaking it in this manner means you initiate the hike on the Lower Taranaki Falls track, which is a brief walk from the parking area (it’s here on Google Maps).
Another pro-tip here: If you have the ability and fuel in the tank, don’t stop at the vista point for Lower Tama Lakes, because the perspectives from atop the ridge you climb for a glimpse of Upper Tama Lake are absolutely spectacular in all directions. And the perspectives are well worth the price of admission.
Getting to the Trailhead for Tama Lakes (and Parking)
This route leaves from a tiny parking area in Whakapapa Village, which accommodates approximately 10-12 vehicles and motorhomes. It shares the lot with the hike to Taranaki Falls, which is a popular shorter hike in the park.
We arrived at 7:30am and were the third vehicle in the lot. You definitely want to make an early beginning on this one, both for the parking situation, but also because if you depart early, you’ll have the incredible landscapes mostly to yourself.
The lot was mostly full by the time we had donned our gear and set out just before 8am on a summer weekend morning.
We saw approximately five day hikers between the parking area and Lower Tama Lake, and encountered some backpackers doing the Tongariro Circuit while we were up on the ridge. It was a magical morning, and stood in stark contrast to the following day when we did the Crossing, which is a bit hectic.
If arriving a bit later when parking is no longer available in that lot, the best place to park is along Highway 48 ( here on Google Maps), which has ample parking spaces and a small parking area.
Things to Know Before You Hike to Tama Lakes
Here are a few elements we think you should be aware of before undertaking this hike.
There is negligible shade along this trail. Except for the initial kilometer or so (traveling clockwise), which remains somewhat forested. After getting past that initial stretch, it’s completely exposed to the sun. Remember that sunlight is notably intense in New Zealand, so you’ll want to reapply sunscreen regularly on this hike. We tend to prefer hiking in long-sleeved tops and long pants to cover up, even when quite warm outside. Additionally, sunglasses – particularly polarized ones – will serve you well here.
You require plenty of water, because there is no potable water on this trail. Given the exposure and the distance covered here, you need to bring about 2L of water per person. Yes, that appears like a lot. Yes, on a hot summer day, you will drink it.
Be prepared for potential water exposure. As seen in our pictures, we experienced gorgeous weather on the trail as we climbed up to Upper Tama Lake. However, on the descent, clouds and fog rolled in and at one moment, it was raining almost horizontally. And we were completely soaked from head to toe by the time we reached our vehicle, despite possessing rain gear. The message is that conditions can alter quickly, implying you want to be ready for multiple seasons within the same day.
There are restroom facilities along the trail. You will find drop toilets above Taranaki Falls and at the junction with the Tongariro Circuit just below Lower Tama Lake (though you should bring your own toilet paper).
The Tama Lakes Track: A Complete Trail Guide
In this section, we will go through the hike from beginning to end so you know what to anticipate when starting the trail.
For each section, we’ll give you the (rough) distance and elevation gained in that portion of the hike, along with a relatively brief description of the terrain, calling out anything that we think might be useful to know (e.g. there’s a steep section with some scrambling, there’s a toilet, etc).
The Initial Ascent to Taranaki Falls
Distance: 2.9km (1.8 miles) // Elevation Gain: 335 meters (1,100 feet)
It’s worth a reminder at the onset here that, since we’re recommending the route that takes the lower route to Taranaki Falls on the way up, you’ll initiate from the Taranaki Falls Lower Track and start on the Taranaki Falls Walking Track.
This segment of the trail is the only portion of the hike that contains any tree coverage. You’ll start along a well-manicured path looking directly at Mount Ngāuruhoe and after a brief interval, you’ll enter the forestland. It’s an up-and-down affair (mostly ascending) as you climb, with a few stretches of steep steps.
If you’re fortunate (like we were, at least momentarily), you’ll be hiking on a clear day and have views of Mount Ruapehu over your right shoulder, along with a distant view of the Tongariro Chateau.
Eventually, the trail leads you to a fork marked by a charming wooden footbridge spanning Wairere Stream. You should NOT cross the stream at this point (though we paused to photograph the idyllic bridge and creek below), continuing instead along the Lower Taranaki Falls Track to the right.
The trail follows alongside the stream, and crossing over signals you`re within a short distance of Taranaki Falls, marking the conclusion of this leg.
Taranaki Falls is a nice appetizer for the views that await you as soon as you reach the upper trail at the start of the next section.
Standing at 20 meters (65 feet) high – we hail from Oregon, land of the waterfalls, and while it`s not the largest we`ve seen, it remains quite impressive – and it cascades over the ledge formed by lava flows into the stream called Wairere below, which is the waterway you`ve been adjacent to for the past few kilometers.
The coolest aspect for us was the multi-colored rocks encircling the waterfalls.
After you’ve had your fill of pictures, continue along the trail and tackle the 100 or so steps to bring you to the end of the initial lollipop, where you’ll find a set of toilets and the spur trail that will take you up to Tama Lakes.
The Gradual Climb to Lower Tama Lake
Distance: 4.4km (2.7 miles) // Elevation Gain: 65 meters (200 feet)
After finishing the Taranaki Falls Track, the remainder of the hike is on the Tama Lakes Track.
This section runs from the beginning of the Tama Lakes Track up to the viewpoint for the lower lake. It primarily involves ascending roughly 65 meters (200 feet) over 4.4 km (2.7 miles), which is quite gentle overall.
The first couple of kilometers of this section could be our favorite part of this hike. It climbs relatively gently through tussock grasslands, up and over ridges, and along streams. And the entire time, you have views of both volcanoes.
You’ll commence ascending straight towards Mount Ruapehu – the largest of the park’s three volcanoes, and then the trail curves left, climbs to the top of a ridge, and suddenly you’re viewing across the valley at Mount Ngāuruhoe.
We had generally clear weather for this stretch of the trail (the same cannot be said for the return journey on this stretch, when it was raining heavily), and were basically dragging our jaws across the ground for this entire stretch.
At approximately 6.4 kilometers (almost precisely 4 miles) along the route, you’ll arrive at a trail junction with the Whakapapa – Waihohonu track, where you’ll continue leftward (turning right leads to the Waihohonu Hut, one of the stops on the Tongariro Northern Circuit). Bathroom facilities are available here if needed.
We encountered multiple travelers backpacking the Tongariro Northern Circuit route, which largely shares the same track in this section, along this stretch of trail. Many were heading up to the Tama Saddle, leaving their packs at the junction to avoid needlessly hauling them any further than absolutely necessary.
After briefly strolling along a wooden pathway, you`ll arrive at the vantage point for Lower Tama Lake, which concludes the middle section of this hike. This is a great place to stop for a snack and a drink prior to tackling the final ascent, which is undoubtedly the most difficult part of the hike.
For what it`s worth, we observed many persons turning back at this viewpoint and while we understand avoiding the steep, rugged climb up to the saddle, we completely believe it`s worthwhile.
And we say that as individuals who couldn’t actually see the volcano from that location due to fog. On a clear day, the views must be spectacular.
The Final Ascent to the Top of the Ridge and the Tama Saddle
Distance: Around 1.3 kilometers (0.8 miles) // Elevation Gain: Approximately 120 meters (400 feet)
As soon as you initiate this ascent, you’ll quickly enter the barren high-altitude environment that made this an ideal place to film elements of the Mordor sections of Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings motion pictures.
As we previously noted, this section of the hike is by far the most difficult both because of the climbing involved (generally we categorize anything climbing over 500 feet per mile as “hard”, and this hike fits right within that category) and also because there is no clearly defined trail.
You’ll certainly find trails that previous hikers have forged, but you’ll be somewhat pioneering your own route here. There are a set of orange-tipped posts that outline the general path you’ll need to follow to reach the saddle, but how you navigate between them you’ll have to do some light route-scouting.
The trail continues along the ridge reaching a level area providing views over the upper lake, with Mount Ngāuruhoe appearing in the background (if not obscured by clouds).
In the opposite direction, a sweeping perspective takes in the basin below including Lower Tama Lake and the peak of Mount Ruapehu in the distance (given clear skies).
It`s worth noting that over the course of this climb, the weather transformed from nearly fully clear and sunny to foggy and eventually rainy sideways. In this alpine environment, coming prepared for all conditions, especially rain, wind and cold, is important as we discovered.
Although, despite being outfitted in waterproof garments from head to toe, we still ended up soaked to the bone by the time we got to the car. Sometimes, being prepared doesn’t save you from getting soaked.
It’s worthwhile to check the weather forecasts when planning your day`s activities (we`re honestly uncertain which service to use, as each provided different information and none ended up being correct based on our experience).
You’ll particularly want to keep an eye out for thunderstorms – you DO NOT want to be on that exposed saddle in a thunderstorm.
On the way back, you’ll follow the Tama Lakes track back the direction you came all the way to the Taranaki Falls Track.
For a somewhat different scenery from the Lower Track, we’d take the Upper Track, which brings you back to the parking area near the Skotel Lodge (the primary, little parking area for this hike).
