Pondering precisely how to expend 4 days in Rome? Or perhaps you hold additional or less time and you’re striving to plot an unforgettable Rome itinerary. Either way, you’re in the accurate spot. We have each been to Rome multiple intervals – like a full ten days in 2021 – and have contributed all of our tips, tricks, and discoveries into this guide to assist you plot an amazing trip, particularly if it’s your initial time.
We recently spent three months in Europe – the longest trip we can take on a tourist visa as Americans – and were struck by how frequently we heard mentions of the Romans as we traveled around Spain and Portugal (not to mention Italy).
Wherever we went, we found remnants dating back to Ancient Rome, from temples and shrines to excavated ruins and fortification walls. In fact, numerous Spanish cities like Barcelona were founded by the Romans, though they obviously look very different currently.
One of the most interesting things about Rome for me is the contrast between elements of its Ancient Roman history, which is perhaps the empire most widely known in human history (at least the “most widely” known in modern times), and the fact that Italy as a nation is comparatively youthful.
Italy has one of the youngest eras of sovereignty in Europe, actually achieving independent nationhood only in the mid 19th century despite regions within its current borders playing enormously important roles for around two millennia, give or take.
Both Alysha and myself have visited Rome multiple times before. In fact, I loved Rome so greatly after my first trip with family after completing my undergraduate studies that I took the precise same journey two years later, this time with friends. Alysha lived in Rome for six months during college, calling the more residential section of Prati, the neighborhood near the Vatican, home.
In 2021, we spent 10 days in Rome, divided into two visits of five days each,and we fell deeply in love with the city once more. After that trip, we have almost entirely reworked this guide to reflect our discoveries on that latest visit hoping that you, like us, will fall in love with the city that has had such a profound impact on human history.
In this guide to planning your trip to Rome, you`ll find a detailed 4 day schedule for Rome, complete with things to do, see, eat, and drink, along with the important details needed like how to see the Colosseum and when to walk around the historic center to get that photo of Trevi Fountain without all the people.
You’ll also find logistics – like how to get around and the best time to visit – that are important for planning your trip.
We hope you find this guide helpful for planning your trip, and that it assists you in discovering something new and stimulating, whether it is your initial visit or tenth time.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we don’t stand behind 100%.
Table of Contents
How Many Days in Rome?
Given all there is to experience and see in the city, we believe allotting a minimum of 4 days in Rome is critical to avoid feeling rushed between attractions without time to immerse in the locale`s distinctive atmosphere and enjoy life`s pleasures as found in Italy.
With four days, you’ll comfortably be able to fit in the Vatican, Colosseum, and Borghese Gallery alongside eating pizza and pasta, drinking plenty of wine, and exploring a few of our favorite neighborhoods (and getting some pretty magnificent views of Rome along the way).
Our strongest recommendation for planning a Rome trip is to not incorporate more than one major attraction (e.g. the Colosseum, Vatican, or Borghese Gallery) into a single day.
Experiencing each place will require vast energy, and by the time preparing to visit the second, exhaustion will set in, diminishing enjoyment of the experience.
If you have only two or three days available in Rome, planning your trip is still achievable. Below the key itinerary, we provide our thoughts on how to spend one, two, or three days in Rome to assist you in planning with less time allocated.
Where to Stay in Rome
There are various accommodation options in Rome, and your choice will largely depend on your style and budget.
Which is why we’ve compiled a comprehensive guide to help you make a decision about where to reside in Rome, which outlines our favorite neighbourhoods along with advantages and disadvantages and highlights for each. For more details, head over and read that.
Here’s the short version.
- Our general guidance is to find an charming lodge or guesthouse in Trastevere, which is far and away our favorite part of Rome. Cobblestone paths, energetic plazas, and some of the best bars and restaurants in Rome? Sign me up! We stayed at Horti 14 Borgo on our last trip, a gorgeous boutique hotel just outside of the center of Trastevere, and really enjoyed it. Especially the breakfast buffet.
- For visitors exploring Rome for the first time, you cannot go wrong with the Centro Storico. Lodge at Casa Pietra or Coronari Palace if searching for a hotel or guesthouse. We dwelled at these apartments on our most recent trip, and they were nearly flawless.
- If you’re exploring alternatives, examine the Monti district of Rome near the Colosseum and Forum, packed with bars, eateries, cafes and more. It`s a convenient central locale, and generally seems much younger than the Centro Storico.
You can find the more detailed version in our guide covering where to stay in Rome.
4 Days in Rome: A Complete Guide to Planning Your 4 Day Rome Itinerary
Over the course of 4 days in Rome, you’ll be amazed by the achievements of Ancient Rome, see some of the best art collections in the entire world, and delight in what modern Rome has to offer, like great wine bars, restaurants, and more.
Here’s an overview of the agenda you’ll find below:
- Day 1: The Colosseum & Roman Forum + Your First Aperitivo
- Day 2: Visit The Vatican, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Castel Sant’Angelo
- Day 3: Self-Guided Centro Storico Walk + The Borghese Gallery
- Day 4: Explore Two of Rome’s Best Neighborhoods
Day 1: The Colosseum & Roman Forum + Your First Aperitivo
Begin your day where it all originated – in the heart of Ancient Rome. Devote the bulk of the day to wrapping your head around the centuries of history where this small quarter of the city played an outsized role, then spend the afternoon and evening experiencing aperitivo.
The Colosseum and Roman Forum
For all practical reasons, these two sites should be collectively considered. They represent similar eras in Roman history, are adjacent, and are covered by the same ticket or tour.
Prior to or following the tour, there’s an excellent panoramic view of the Roman Forum outside its boundaries located here.
It’s well worth heading up and over the hill to the prominent Piazza del Campidoglio (with a replica of a famous Michelangelo statue in the middle) and Piazza Venezia, which houses the Altar of the Fatherland dedicated to Italy’s first king after unification, Vittorio Emanuele II.
The Colosseum (or the Flavian Amphitheater)
The gigantic Roman amphitheater established in the city, referred to as the greatest (and bulkiest) across the globe. The composition was mandated by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E. after the area was utilized as a private royal residence for infamous (and disliked) Emperor Nero. It was type of a gesture to the inhabitants that the ruling class hadn’t forgotten them.
Unfortunately, Vespasian didn’t live to see it completed. Instead, it was completed under his son Titus in 80 C.E., taking just eight years to build (which is insane when you consider that some churches take several centuries).
It`s plausible that after some expansions and renovations through the years, the structure`s capacity spanned somewhere between 40,000 and 50,000 spectators, though you may still encounter figures as elevated as 80,000 thrown around which most scholars generally agree is a bit ambitious.
Another misimpression about the Colosseum often propagated by media like movies and television shows is that the gladiatorial games were unremittingly savage brutal and deadly.
That point is valid to some degree, but our guide also pointed out that ultimately, the gladiators were highly skilled professionals AND they represented significant monetary assets to the wealthy owners who undoubtedly didn`t want their valuable property injured or destroyed.
It’s more plausible that the gladiatorial battles resembled modern boxing matches than the bloodbaths depicted in films starring Russell Crowe.
Parts of the original wooden arena flooring have been rebuilt, below which the complex cages, tunnels and lift system taking gladiators and exotic animals up onto the stage from holding areas can be viewed.
It’s enormous, and it’s an impressive feat of human ingenuity. I, Matt, have explored the Colosseum four different times now, and each time my jaw drops as you emerge onto the perimeter platform surrounding the arena.
The Roman Forum
The Roman Forum – known in Italian as the Foro Romano – is a little different than the Colosseum. Unlike the Colosseum, which stands tall and intact (having been rebuilt and renovated over the years), the Roman Forum is mostly ruins.
Which makes comprehending the buildings complex without a guide to deciphering the differences such as between the Senate building and the Temple of the Vestal Virgins. Palatine Hill, one of Rome`s seven hills, lies just to the southwest and is accessible from within. One of Rome`s best views can be found at the viewpoint at the top of the hill.
The majority of significant structures in Ancient Rome were within walking distance of this historic gathering place.
Contrary to common belief, while a temple dedicated to Julius Caesar is located here, he was actually killed nearer Largo di Torre Argentina rather than in the Forum.
How to Visit the Colosseum and Roman Forum
As I had mentioned previously, I have visited the Colosseum and Forum on four separate occasions – twice with a guided tour and twice independently – and I can confidently say that experiencing the Colosseum and Roman Forum with a guided excursion is best.
Specifically, an accompanied tour with an expert guide, which is precisely what you`ll receive with Walks of Italy.
We participated in this Walks of Italy tour during this most recent trip to Rome, and we were astounded by the expertise, profundity, and detail that our guide – Dario – brought to the experience for us.
He busted all sorts of myths that we had fully believed to be accurate, and was able to weave together a cohesive story throughout the three hour tour that had us engaged the entire time.
And remember, we both had experienced it multiple times previously!
We highly, highly recommend booking a guided tour for the Colosseum and Forum. If you only have time for one guided tour in Rome, this should be the one.
Especially because the Forum is truly just a collection of crumbled structures on the surface, and you need the historical context and perspective from a guide to really ignite your imagination to envision how this area might have appeared when it was the pulsating heart of the Roman Empire.
If you’re not quite sure about a tour, read about our experience with the highlighted walks through Italy tour of the Colosseum.
Visiting the Colosseum and Forum Independently
You can certainly visit independently. We would recommend obtaining the audio guide ahead of your visit, or downloading the Rick Steves audio guide. It won’t be as engaging or fascinating as a tour, but it will provide some of the context surrounding what you’re viewing.
Procure tickets in advance, and as far in advance as possible for visits to Rome in summer months.
For more details and to purchase tickets, visit the official website (specific hours and prices fluctuate, so it`s preferable to check the site directly for the most current information).
Appreciating the Roman Forum properly will necessitate allocating no less than three to four hours. Even in late September, exploring the Roman Forum was quite warm. In the peak summer months, it will be nearly unbearable with very limited access to shade and brief respite from the sun`s heat. Be certain to bring adequate water and sun protection, as both will be necessary.
Afterwards, take a well-earned respite and grab a meal, head back to the hotel and relax, and get ready for a late afternoon hike up to one of the best viewpoints in Rome.
The Orange Garden and Keyhole
Following a restful interval, it`s time to venture out once more to explore a bit further. The next stop is the Orange Garden ( here on Google Maps), positioned on a hilltop with magnificent perspectives of Rome and the Vatican.
Another worthwhile stop just a few hundred feet away is the view point ( here on Google Maps), which is currently well-known on social media where you can gaze through, well, a viewpoint, that perfectly frames the dome of the Vatican. I mention it`s popular on social media, because if you`re here in high season in the afternoon, you`re likely going to have to wait in line for the privilege of looking through said viewpoint.
Experiencing this section of the itinerary earlier in the day prior to visiting the Colosseum results in a vastly differentiated atmosphere. Rather than being crowded with children and tourists awaiting sunset, the locale was thoroughly populated by local inhabitants walking their canine companions. Remarkably, not a single individual was waiting to glimpse through the small opening, leaving us as the sole observers!
Your First Aperitivo
Aperitivo is a late afternoon period, between finishing work and the later dinner time (later than expected in Rome) where people go out for drinks. And those drinks are served with a selection of small bites, like bruschetta, olives, and similar items.
In America and Canada, happy hour customs are somewhat like the concept of aperitivo in Rome, except complimentary small bites accompany the drinks. While large buffets before meals are rare now in most areas of Rome, the idea behind aperitivo as a fun way to socialize remains a favorite part of time spent in the city.
During the afternoon drink (aperitivo), our beverage of choice (and what you`ll commonly observe others drinking) is the Aperol Spritz. It`s a light cocktail – perfect for a summer day – that is made with sparkling water, sparkling wine (all of the bubbles please!) and Aperol, an orange-colored bittersweet aperitif.
The spritz usually costs between 4-5 Euros, with definitely not more than 6 Euros being paid, and is considered the quintessential beverage to try before a meal in the area. I mistakenly ordered a Campari Spritz to sample it, but will not do so again. While it was drinkable if one prefers bitter liqueurs like Campari, it lacked the refreshment of a standard spritz.
Anyway, after the orange garden, you’re well positioned to head to our favorite pre-meal spot in Rome – Zerosettantacinque – which is near where the Circus Maximus (a huge chariot racing arena) used to be, connecting well with the Ancient Rome theme of today.
The spot has a great location, the beverages are good, and they offer a small selection of nibbles to pair with your drinks (and a more extensive menu of meals, if you’re still hungry).
Dinner and Drinks in Monti
After sampling a spritz or two, head to the nearby Monti neighborhood on the northern side of the Colosseum for dinner.
I state hip because there are multiple record shops and vintage garments retailers on one of the streets, which is a clear signal that the kids hang out there (by “the kids” I’m referring to 20-somethings wearing bell bottom light wash denims and those eyeglasses with thin wire structures and big lenses that appearance like Harry Potter’s eyeglasses).
We walked through here on a couple occasions at different times, and by far the most lively period is later at night.
Grab dinner at either Cimarra Pizza and Cocktails or Al Vino Al Vino, and indulge in your first gelato of the trip at Fatamorgana, one of our favorite gelato shops in Rome with rotating seasonal flavors and freshly prepared ingredients.
P.S.: We beloved this bit on how to area “good” gelato. Spoiler: the gelato with superb brilliant colours that is spilling out of the tubs outside the store close to Trevi Fountain is, unsurprisingly, not the best you can find.
Additional Rome Travel Guides to Assist Your Planning
- ITINERARY: How to Devise an Extraordinary Rome Itinerary
- WHERE TO REMAIN: The Best Locations to Remain in Rome
- COLOSSEUM TOUR:A review of a favored tour of the Colosseum for visitors to Rome
- GLUTEN FREE: Gluten Free Restaurants in Rome
Day 2: The Vatican, St. Peter’s Basilica, and Castel Sant’Angelo
On your second day, focus your exploration on the second world-renowned attraction in Rome, the Vatican. Home to the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican holds great fascination even for those not deeply religious. It boasts an impressive collection of art, with the highlight undoubtedly being the Sistine Chapel.
A word on fashion for this day, not because we want to ensure you’re as stylish as possible, but because the Vatican is a religious site. That means your shoulders and knees should be covered up, even if it’s oppressively hot in the summer.
Otherwise, entry may be restricted to certain parts of the complex, namely St. Peter`s Basilica.
But First, Coffee
Before touring the Vatican, visit Pergamino Caffè for exceptionally good coffee in Rome. As a coffee enthusiast who likes choosing my own beans, this is perfect.
They have coffee roasters from across Europe, greatly focused on Italian roasters, and will prepare you a cup of excellent coffee, whether you prefer lattes or filter coffee.
It is situated just south of the Vatican on a street close to the main entrance of the Museums, creating an ideal pre-Vatican visit site.
The Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica
Possibly the most renowned museum on the planet calls the collections of the Vatican its home. They exhibit around 20,000 pieces of visual art works, culminating with the legendary Sistine Chapel where Michelangelo`s ceiling frescoes can be found.
One contradiction that often appears in the rear of my mind when visiting huge, ornate churches has to do with the function of the church.
Why, you might inquire, does an entity that preaches the scripture, which unequivocally denounces affluent individuals who do not allocate their riches, have such an ornate and overstated exhibition of wealth? Considerable inquiry to pose to the Pontiff, if you run into him (or her, in case you’re reviewing this at an epoch when we’ve obtained a female pope).
As a religious site, I have inquiries about the Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica. If you place those questions aside for a moment and just consider it as an accumulation of art, it’s a quite incredible presentation featuring a who’s who of Italian artistic history.
There are essentially two components – the collections housed in the Vatican Museums (which feature the renowned Sistine Chapel) and St. Peter`s Basilica. You should experience both locations, and you should try to visit either at the beginning or conclusion of opening hours (obviously, based on the itinerary provided, you would see the first exhibition of the day).
Purchase tickets here – the site defaults to Italian, but English can be selected from the top right language menu.
For the best experience, we would advise selecting tickets that incorporate an audioguide, or, even better, booking a guided tour that involves a live guide.
We would select the “Pristine Sistine” excursion, organized by Walks of Italy (as we have frequently referenced our appreciation for them), gaining entry to the Museums one hour prior to general public admission. This brief window allows the opportunity to experience the wonder of the Sistine Chapel before overcrowding by loud, malodorous tourists potentially detracts from the atmosphere.
Lunch in Prati
After seeing the Vatican and St Peter’s Basilica, head to the neighborhood of Prati immediately next to the Vatican for lunch.
Although more residential than other areas in the city center, this part of Rome was where Alysha resided for six months during her college years (albeit farther from the Vatican). It has a somewhat upscale and family-oriented atmosphere compared to other central locations.
However, despite being so close to a visitor attraction – which is usually a bad sign in terms of food quality and cost – there are some truly outstanding places to dine here.
For the finest pizza slices in Rome, head to Bonci Pizzarium, a diminutive shop where you`ll find a daily selection of square pizzas cut into square slices, differing from what one might find in the US. Toppings rotate continuously.
I previously visited this location with friends several years ago, and unfortunately the focus on “gluten free” options presented a major problem in that situation, so we did not return on our most recent trip.
If you’re sick of Italian cuisine (really? On day two?), we LOVED El Maiz, a Venezuelan eatery serving corn patties, stuffed pancakes, and fried plantains.
Venezuelan arepas, which we enjoy, were surprisingly found in Rome. The tostones – fried plantains topped with ingredients – here are outstanding, ranking among the finest dishes we ate in Rome. The queso cachapa (somewhat like a sweet corn pancake filled with about a pound of cheese) is also delicious.
Castel Sant’Angelo
After lunch, make your way towards the river to Castel Sant’Angelo, which is a place that we commonly would have skipped, but found ourselves doing on day 8 or 9 because we had ample time to fit it in.
It was built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum, and then the Catholic Church took control of it and turned it into a fortress. Today, it’s part art museum, part abandoned castle with some cool art installations inside.
Virgen de Los Angeles Day – Thousands of pilgrims commemorate Aug. 2, the patron saint`s day for Costa Rica, by trekking 22 km from San Jose to the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles in Cartago.
Purchase your tickets ahead of time – particularly in 2021 and beyond when attendance will be limited. We didn`t and ended up waiting somewhat since the beginning timeslot for the day was sold out.
The view from the opposite end of the bridge directly facing Castel Sant’Angelo is also spectacular. If you choose not to enter, be sure to head to the other side of that bridge (and firmly say “no, thanks” to all the people attempting to sell you various items as you cross the bridge).
That photo spot is roughly located here on Google Maps, and that picture was taken at 8:00 am, before most of the tourists arrived.
Our Favorite Wine Bar in Rome
When visiting Rome, drink good wine. And our favorite wine in Rome came from Enoteca Il Piccolo, a charming little wine bar in the Centro Storico known for a rotating selection of natural wines from local producers.
Not only was the wine – specifically a lightly bubbly white wine called a pet-nat – excellent, but the experience was unique too! For context, our Italian language skills are minimal – enough to get by, order food, and pay, but not much more than that.
I endeavored to convey, in Italian, the kind of wine I desired (Alysha immediately opted for the bubbly varieties – CLASSIC!), however, my effort resulted in some difficulties. An elderly gentleman, who I believe owned the establishment, assisted me, considered my attempt, turned away, departed, and returned with an excellent glass of wine that perfectly matched what I had hoped for. All with about ten words exchanged between us.
They have a nice small terrace outside that is a wonderful spot for a glass of wine on a warm afternoon and sell wine by the bottle if you want to get one to savor later.
Dinner in the Centro Storico
After you’ve enjoyed some Italian wine, it’s time to dive into the best part about Rome – the cuisine! In the Centro Storico, you’ve got plenty of options, but they generally get worse the closer you get to popular places like Trevi Fountain and Campo de’ Fiori, so we’d recommend selecting a place around a few blocks from those main spots if possible.
For what it`s worth, we truly appreciated Pantha Rei, a restaurant tucked away on an alley near the Pantheon with gluten free (and gluten-full) options. You can see the Pantheon from their outdoor terrace.
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina is considered one of the highest rated restaurants in Rome – make a reservation if you want to dine there! According to local recommendations (though, for gluten reasons, we didn’t eat there ourselves), this is our top choice if you are able to secure a table.
If you’re hunting for an apartment right in the heart of Bologna, Residence Le Porte would be one of our top choices.
Here’s a guide to dining in Rome that we really appreciated, despite not being able to eat at 95% of the places she recommends (plus, if you’re truly a food enthusiast, you should probably do one of her food / walking tours).
Day 3: Self-Guided Centro Storico Walk + The Borghese Gallery
Rise early to explore Rome`s historic center before tourists fill the area, then spend a relaxing afternoon touring the Villa Borghese park and viewing art at the prominent Borghese Gallery museum.
Completing your foodie experience in Rome – either taking a cooking lesson or joining a food walking tour – allows you to deeply explore the city`s cuisine culture while trying some terrific bites from local spots you likely wouldn`t discover individually.
An Early Morning Self-Guided Walk of the Centro Storico
As we mentioned above, you’ll want to begin this walk prior to 9:00 am. No later than that. Otherwise, this entire route is just jam-packed wall-to-wall with people at virtually any other time of the day.
Trace a route roughly northeast from Campo de’ Fiori to the Spanish Steps, ending at Piazza del Popolo.
Here is a handy chart of this travel itinerary, together with the mentioned stops.
- Piazza Navona – This broad square was built upon an ancient stadium, explaining its elongated shape. It bustles with eateries and wine bars spilling onto the uneven pavement. Especially striking at night are the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi sculpted by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and the northern Fontana di Nettuno, both enhancing the plaza`s allure after dark.
- Campo de’ Fiori – A marketplace selling flowers and produce by day that also offers some rather distasteful souvenirs (do not purchase trinkets here), this is a perfect locale to initiate exploration of Rome`s urban core.
- The Pantheon – Once a location of worship for Romans, now a Catholic place of worship, the Pantheon has an imposing front section that was rebuilt in the 2nd century AD. The great circular interior has an opening in the ceiling that allows a single beam of light through at times, sometimes illuminating the tomb of the renowned artist Raphael. There can be huge lines to enter later in the day, providing another reason to start early!
- Trevi Fountain– They say that if you throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain in Rome, you will return to the city. However, getting close enough to do so can prove difficult. Crowds pack the area at all hours, even in the early morning, yet it remains an iconic site prominently featured in films like La Dolce Vita. Whatever you do, avoid eating nearby, as establishments will charge 50% more for food that is 100% worse in quality.
- Spanish Steps – A notable architectural structure awaits visitors here with its 135 stone steps creating an elegant path. They represent an iconic landmark of Rome, linking the Borghese Gardens to the Piazza di Spagna where a beautifully designed Baroque fountain embellishes the paving stones.
- Piazza del Popolo – In this plaza located at one end of an ancient route into Rome stands its oldest obelisk, taking inspiration from Egypt in its narrow tower form rising from the center. Though designed in the 19th century, it serves as the former northern entrance to the old city. Ascend to the Terrazza del Pincio ( here on Google Maps) for awe-inspiring vistas of this square and St. Peter’s Basilica far in the distance.
The Borghese Gallery and Gardens
Spend the afternoon exploring the best natural area in the city – the Villa Borghese – and experiencing the only art museum (unless you count the Vatican Museums, I suppose) on this Rome itinerary, the Borghese Gallery.
Tickets for the Borghese Gallery are notoriously difficult to obtain due to the extreme caps on numbers permitted inside at a given time, so book your visit as early as possible. Only 360 people are allowed into this exclusive art gallery daily.
We recommend booking tickets as soon as possible so that you can experience what we believe is the most intriguing museum in Rome (apologies, Vatican). You can do so here.
In the alternative, if interested in a more thorough experience, reserve a spot on the excellent Borghese Gallery Tour with Take Walks. It might seem pricey, but visitors will get to experience masterpieces, notably works by the swashbuckling artist Caravaggio (his spine-tinglingDavid with the Head of Goliath is housed within), with all the context and details desired to truly appreciate what is being viewed.
We always like to explore art galleries after having amazing encounters at the Prado Museum in Madrid and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, and strongly advise it if you’re, similar to us, not truly an art show kind of individual.
The anecdotes and information regarding the creators and artworks brought forth by an expert truly provide you a deeper, more enriching experience, and help you focus on the important aspects in a huge museum filled with amazing art.
The Villa Borghese is the center of one of Rome’s most lovely parks. If you’re feeling relaxed, grab a seat here under the trees and simply watch the world pass by. Don’t miss the Temple of Asclepius and the lake, which was our favorite part.
Choose Your Own Foodie Adventure
Immersing ourselves in the cuisine of places we visit is one of our favorite aspects of travel, and we aim to include a food tour, cooking class or market walkthrough in most locations.
Regrettably, the reality is that because Matt has Celiac Disease and can’t have even a speck of gluten without being ill for days, a food tour or cooking class wasn’t achievable for us.
HOWEVER. That does NOT mean it shouldn’t be considered! We would highly recommend it because it provides a local perspective on the city`s food scene – what and where to eat and drink – and allows connecting with other travelers while sampling amazing cuisine.
Here are some alternatives for you, split between food trips and cooking classes. Our preference is to do a cooking class, because we ENJOY cooking, but we also appreciate a good food trip.
Option 1: Learn to Cook Italian Food with a Cooking Class
We’ve done all sorts of cooking classes around the world (read about our cooking class in Mexico City here), and while the gluten-filled nature of Italian food made it nearly impossible to do one in Rome, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t consider it.
Here are four culinary classes that would definitely be on our list if one of us, you know, could consume gluten.
- Handmade Pasta Class at the Pantheon: Participants will receive an overview of Roman cuisine followed by learning how to prepare two traditional kinds of pasta along with multiple sauces. Vegetarians are welcome. Attendees get to both prepare and eat the dishes.”
- Artisanal Pasta & Classic Sauces with RiccardoWe appreciate experiences allowing access to real homes of locals in neighborhoods tourists rarely explore. This opportunity fulfils that. Join Riccardo – a lifelong Rome resident – at his family home where handmade pasta will be crafted, classic sauces like carbonara and cacio e pepe (our favorites) prepared, and the authentic food culture of Rome intimately experienced. Plus, wine, as expected in Italy. Vegetarians welcome.
- Handmade Pasta with Grandma: Every culture has the phenomenon of older female relatives preparing meals best, with traditional dishes passed down from grandma to grandma, and unsurprisingly Italy is no different. You’ll craft ravioli, fettuccine and farfalle entirely from scratch in their family home. Note that this tour is quite far outside Rome (you meet here) so you’ll need to take the train there and back. Vegetarians welcome.
We completed this tour of a miniature organic vineyard and olive plantation at the northern conclusion of Chianti, and we loved it.
Option 2: Dive into Rome’s Food Culture with a Food Tour
Here are some food tours that caught our eye though, sadly, we also skipped these because of the whole gluten and cross-contact issue.
- Hidden Rome Cuisine Exploration in Trastevere with Dinner and Wine: This experience takes you on a culinary tour of Trastevere, one of our favorite districts in Rome, guided by an native food specialist. You`ll sample top-rated regional dishes from destinations you otherwise may have overlooked, gaining background on how these staples emerged in Roman cooking traditions. Wine and limoncello are also part of the festivities along the route. This tour adeptly blends history, culture, and great eats, meeting our usual preferences for such excursions.
- An Evening Exploring Local Cuisines and Hidden Gems: Born and raised locally, Selene and her team will guide you on a culinary tour of Rome’s finest foods. Throughout, you’ll gain an understanding of Rome`s history and culture. Pizza, carbonara, and other delicious tastes will be sampled while exploring the Centro Storico region primarily.
- Stop at the scenic overlook for Diablo Lake to admire the light blue water of Diablo Lake, which obtains that hue from daylight bouncing off microscopic rock fragments drifting in the lake due to erosion.
- Experience the finest flavors of Rome: 25 samplings throughout four hours – so you`ll desire to show up hungry! You’ll wander through Prati, pausing at five locally held spots to try a variety of delicacies ranging from truffles to meats and cheeses plus additional choices.
Day 4: Exploring Two of Rome’s Best Neighborhoods
On your last day in Rome, spend the day exploring two of Rome’s most intriguing neighborhoods – the eternally popular Trastevere, full of bohemian charm with cobblestone streets and ivy-adorned buildings, and grittier Testaccio, which we appreciate because it feels like real individuals actually live there (and the food scene is great, too).
A Morning Walk Above Trastevere
We consider that Trastevere is most suited in the afternoon and evening hours, when the activities spill out into the cobblestone roadways and charming plazas.
However, the Piazza di S. Cosimato market ( here on Google Maps) offers fresh produce, meats, cheeses and other goods perfect for those with lodging including kitchens seeking to do some cooking.
The real reason to head to Trastevere in the morning is to tackle one of our favorite walks in Rome, which we accidentally discovered on one of our final days in Rome during our most recent trip.
The walk takes you up the incline behind Trastevere to Belvedere del Gianicolo – where you’ll find a superb view over the city – and then down the other side.
Along the route, there are some truly informative panels that describe the historical importance of this area during Italy’s struggle for independence in the mid-19th Century.
Giuseppe Garibaldi, an Italian general during the period immediately before the unification of Italy, is considered to be one of the most important figures in modern Italian history, and there was a battle on this hill above Trastevere that was key in establishing Italy’s independence.
Though, it should be acknowledged that the Italian Republic he fought to establish lasted for only a brief period, and ultimately returned under a new name and brand around a decade later, which is what has continued on to the present day.
There is a statue of him located in the center of the plaza at Belvedere del Gianicolo.
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Testaccio
Unlike Trastevere and other areas in Rome’s historical center, the first thing we noticed about Testaccio was that it appeared to be a real community where people live.
A neighborhood that, two decades ago (even less time than that, truly) was full of warehouses currently stands as one of the top areas in Rome for food enthusiasts.
To reach Testaccio, take the local train from Roma San Pietro to Roma Ostiense, which normally takes about 20 minutes and leaves you with a short walk into the heart of the neighborhood.
It expenses a couple of Euros per person – purchase tickets from the machines at the station, and be certain to validate them before boarding the train.
The first thing to know about Testaccio is that it’s a great food area.
The food scene revolves around the Mercato Testaccio, a sizable market place that has about half stalls selling produce, meat, and cheese, and half stalls selling prepared-to-eat meals (plus some other stalls selling random trinkets and/or shoes). This is where you should have lunch.
The Testaccio neighborhood is not overrun by large numbers of tourists. It is also not extremely expensive compared to what the area offers. It is a place frequented mainly by local residents to shop for goods and dine. If you wish to explore more deeply, consider this Testaccio Food Tour.
Here are some other areas to explore in Testaccio:
- Tram Depot: A charming outdoor venue for obtaining coffee and a pastry or two under the Italian sun. It’s a former tramcar, now renovated and providing quality coffee generally to locals (we were seemingly the sole travelers present as far as we could tell).
- Non-Catholic Cemetery: When Rome was still a devout Catholic city, the remains of foreign protestants weren`t permitted to be interred alongside the Catholic citizens in the regular graveyards. Instead several non-Catholic cemeteries sprang up to accommodate them and the one in Testaccio is one of the most renowned. Remains of Percy Shelley and John Keates can be located buried here. There are also some fantastic views of the Piramide di Caio Cestio, an Egyptian-style pyramid in the center of Rome, commissioned by a wealthy Roman individual in the 1st Century B.C.E. that still stands today.
As we’ve referenced in other locales, like our North Cascades itinerary or our Washington road trip itinerary, this trail is on the eastern verge of the park, which means it’s quite far from just about every campground or place to lodge on the western side of the park.
An Evening in Trastevere
Location: Tao is part of the Grand Canal Shoppes located between the Venetian and Palazzo. It’s also accessible from the sidewalk on The Strip and is directly across the street from the Mirage.
We don’t have much of an itinerary outlined for you here – we think the best approach is to wander the streets and immerse yourself in the atmosphere. Did we mention that we truly enjoy Trastevere and feel it is the most fascinating district to lodge in Rome? We did? Oh, okay, cool.
Though we lack a set agenda, we DO have some recommendations to initiate your exploration.
Don’t miss the Basilica Santa Maria, a beautiful church in the center of the neighborhood filled with gold mosaics by Cavallini. This church is one of the prettiest yet underrated locations in Rome – though you wouldn’t really know it from the outside – so viewing it is essential in this area.
The plaza in front of it serves as a casual meeting place as it is a wonderful spot to sit by the fountain and observe people.
Another thing you should know about Trastevere is that it has amazing nightlife. Trastevere is one of the liveliest neighborhoods in Rome loaded with little bars and trattorias that stay open till the early hours.
There are no clubs here but plenty of small wine bars and craft beer to sip on until the first light of dawn. In summer, bars and restaurants spill out into the streets with tables and chairs outside to enjoy the long sunlight hours.
We like Mama Eat for dinner because they have great gluten free alternatives, and Freni e Frizoni was suggested to us by both a friend and the host at our hotel, though we found it to be expensive and full of visitors (though the spritz was good and the location is great).
Les Vignerons is an incredible small store selling wine and beer run by a very passionate individual (we had a minor disagreement, exacerbated by my poor Italian, concerning gluten free beer) that is perfect for selecting a bottle of wine, beer, or – and this came as a surprise to us – cider! Strongly recommend checking it out if you’re looking for a place to purchase wine or beer.
What to Do with Less Time in Rome: Planning a Shorter Rome Itinerary
If less time is available in Rome, one could either try to fit the same number of activities in a compressed schedule, or be more selective regarding what to experience and observe, saving others for a future trip.
We’d recommend the latter approach, which is generally how we approach travel. Pick a few sights, go deep on those, and save the rest for another visit.
For each of these itineraries, you can utilize the applicable sections in the detailed itinerary above to assist you in determining the logistics surrounding each of the sites brought up.
What to Do with One Day in Rome
If you only have one day in Rome, I hope you`re ready for a whirlwind experience. If you come to Rome and it`s your first time, you`re going to want to see the iconic Colosseum, the renowned Vatican, and the historic Centro Storico district.
Fitting all three of those sights in a single day is going to be draining, and it’s exactly the type of travel that we don’t usually recommend because it’s just running from place to place without the time to truly experience the place you’re exploring.
But, if you only have one day in Rome, here is a suggested itinerary.
First, participate in a morning guided tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum.
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After lunch, take the walk from Campo de’ Fiori to the Spanish Steps, going past Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon along the route.
In the late afternoon / early evening, do a tour of the Vatican at closing time, when it’s much more peaceful. End with dinner in Prati or Trastevere.
Another option would be participating in a full day tour of Rome with Walks of Italy, seeing Vatican landmarks and the Colosseum without long lines.
What to Do with 2 Days in Rome
If you have two days in Rome, spend it focusing on four primary attractions: the Colosseum and Forum, the Vatican, exploring the Centro Storico neighborhood on foot, and an evening in Trastevere.
Spend your initial morning participating in a guided tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum, which will provide you a richer experience and help you comprehend the context behind what you’re observing. Have lunch in Monti before heading to the Centro Storico and walking from Campo de’ Fiori to the Spanish Steps, concluding at Piazza del Popolo. Return the same route and obtain some
On the second day, do an early morning tour of the Vatican, head up to admire the viewpoint from the top of Castel Sant’Angelo, then proceed to Trastevere for aperitivo, dinner, and drinks.
What to Do with 3 Days in Rome
With 3 Days in Rome, follow the entire itinerary above as written with one change. Omit day four, and spend the evening of day one in Trastevere instead.
More Time? Here are Some Additional Things to Add
With more than four days in Rome, you`ll continue finding new activities and areas of interest in the Eternal City. We spent 10 full packed days in Rome recently, yet still came across fresh places to discover on the final day (even without visiting St. Peter`s Basilica or Villa Borghese since previously toured).
One thing we would NOT advise is taking a day trip to Pompeii. The travel time of approximately six hours round trip is simply too long to fit within a single day – you’ll need at minimum 1-2 full days.
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A Half-Day Excursion to Tivoli: Most prominent European cities feature a palace located nearby constructed during the tenure of a wealthy individual from history. For Rome, that place is Tivoli, built by Emperor Hadrian. It represents perhaps the finest daytrip option from Rome. Here is a guided tour to arrive and depart in approximately half a day.
Pasta / Wine in Frascati: Venture outside the city for an evening and head to nearby Frascati, a renowned wine region in Lazio, for a cooking lesson / wine tasting extravaganza.
Wine tasting near Rome: Experiencing the wide variety of Italian grape varieties available in their native regions was a highlight of our Italy trip! While our local selections at home are limited, each area of Italy cultivates their own unique grapes. The Frascati region makes for a delightful day excursion from Rome to sample wines. An organized tour provides a convenient way to participate in tastings without private transportation – here is a highly rated tour option.
The Best Time to Visit Rome
There is no strict rule regarding the most suitable time to visit Rome. The Italian capital is blessed with four distinct seasonal periods.
While any time of year offers attractions, fall is our top recommendation overall, though each season has unique advantages.
- Summer – The peak season in Italy. Rome is extremely busy and very hot. Hotel costs significantly increase and there are long queues for many main attractions. However, you get to see the city bustling with life and the weather is usually just sun, sun, and a little extra sun to boot.
- Fall – Our preferred time in Rome. Truly, we don’t think this city can be outdone in September and October. Something so lovely exists regarding the changing hue of cork oaks along the Tiber River and evenings with mild weather. The sole downside to autumn involves potential rainfall.
- Winter – Rome takes on a pensive, mysterious aura in winter. Occasional freak snowstorms may occur, and frozen fountains have been witnessed on Piazza Navona previously. Hotel costs tend to be cheaper in winter with far fewer crowds congesting primary attractions. However, thermals and an outerwear layer will be necessary!
- Spring – Like fall, spring is outright breathtaking in Rome. There can be quite a lot of rainfall, but that’s balanced out by the flower blooms in parks like Villa Borghese and Doria Pamphili. May is another favorable time for crowds because the summer rush hasn’t begun quite yet.
Getting to Rome
Rome is one of Europe’s major capitals, meaning it has really strong connections to other places around the world through both air, road, and rail transportation. Getting there shouldn`t be difficult, regardless if you’re starting in New York City or London.
Flying to Rome
Rome has two airports: the Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (FCO) in Fiumicino and the Rome Ciampino Giovan Battista Pastine Airport (CIA) in Ciampino.
The first is the capital’s main international hub. That’s where you’ll touch down from long-haul flights from the US, but also on cross-Europe flights with premium carriers like British Airways or Lufthansa.
Ciampino is primarily an arrival point for low-cost airlines like Ryanair and EasyJet, which are worth knowing about if your trip to Rome is part of an continent-wide adventure.
Reaching the city from both airports is quite straightforward:
- From Fiumicino Airport (the Leonardo da Vinci International Airport): Taking the train was pricier than the bus at around $18 each way, but it was far faster (30 minutes from A to B) and wouldn`t slow down when traffic got bad – and it can get really bad in Rome! The train is called the Leonardo Express. It leaves from the station within the airport (follow the train signs) and arrives at Termini Station.
- From Rome Ciampino Airport. Regrettably, there’s no direct rail between Ciampino Airport in Rome and the city center. The buses run reliably, however. Take Terravision or SITBus for around $9.50 each way, approximately 50 minutes to Termini Station downtown.
Don’t be tempted to use Uber to get to your hotel from the airport in Rome. Taxis are an integral part of transportation in the city. Only the deluxe Uber Black cabs are accessible through the app. A taxi ride from either airport to central Rome should cost around $50.
Arriving by Train
Rome is the hub of a highly efficient Italian railway network that can take you south all the way to Sicily via the pizza hub of Naples, and north to Vienna and Munich on high-speed and overnight trains that pass through the Alps.
There are also many shorter, slower trains – known in Italy as regional trains – that connect the capital with surrounding towns in areas like Lazio, Tuscany, and Umbria (all of which are worth exploring if you have more time in Rome).
These days, virtually ALL trains to Rome arrive at the huge Termini Station. We’ve always enjoyed arriving there. It’s a feast for the senses. Everywhere you look something is happening, from business travelers clinking espressos to huge locomotives purring to a stop.
Termini Station also provides a convenient place to arrive. It has a direct connection to Rome`s subway network, and there is a major bus interchange located directly outside.
It may be worthwhile including a warning: The area immediately surrounding Termini Station isn`t the most welcoming part of the city. It can feel somewhat rough and gritty. Stay alert if arriving late and don`t let the initial impression deter exploring elsewhere in town!
Getting Around Rome
Rome was founded long ago in 750 BC. Over the past 2,700 years, it has experienced significant expansion, alterations and development more so than most cities worldwide. Therefore, it should hardly be surprising that navigation through the city is not entirely straightforward.
The roadways can be narrow and winding, especially in the Centro Storico (the medieval core of Rome). There are even paths that must work around ancient monuments – we recall waiting 30 minutes once to pass under an arch in an ancient aqueduct!
The upside? Walking might just be your best bet.
Rome isn’t small but it’s not massive like London or Paris. Many of the main areas you’ll want to see as a first-time visitor on a 4 day trip to Rome are all linked by paths along the Tiber River. What’s more, doing Rome by foot is a joy in its own right.
One can unexpectedly come upon an imperial arch constructed by a renowned Roman emperor, or an inviting small vinoteca beneath the stone pines.
The Rome Metro
The constantly expanding Rome Metro currently possesses three lines. They all intersect at Termini Station. Really, the Metro is for commuters who want to access the outskirts of Rome, because the primary lines extend very far to the east and north of the city.
That said, there are a few stops near the major attractions – Circo Massimo, Repubblica, Spanga, Colosseo – that visitation may justify briefly pausing at.
Buses
Rome`s bus network is highly comprehensive. It covers everywhere the subway doesn`t reach and even doubles up to provide alternative routes to popular spots like the Colosseum and Vatican City.
Last count showed three hundred thirty-eight separate bus routes running all through Rome`s capital. The primary interchange lies just outside Termini Station, yet you can catch buses from anywhere along their paths. Look for the route map at individual stops indicating possible destinations.
Always remember to validate your ticket at the ticket-checking machines on buses – this is a common mistake among first-time visitors to Rome often resulting in a fine!
Trams
Rome’s surface-level trams link the major outskirts to the east and west. Because of this, they may not be as useful to visitors wanting to explore the heritage-rich heart of the capital (where the primary sights are located).
However, some Rome tram services can be handy, like the one from Trastevere to Argentina (just south of the Pantheon) or the Colosseum, as an example.
Tickets for Public Transportation
All types of public transportation within the Eternal City, including trams, buses, and subways, accept the same tickets. Purchase one and freely travel Rome`s transportation network. A variety of fare options exist:
- Tickets valid for one hundred minutes (€1.50/$1.80) – Applicable for all public transportation within Rome for one hundred minutes permitting unlimited transfers.
- 24-hour ticket (€7.00/$8.35) – Valid for any public transportation in Rome for 24 hours after the moment you validate.
- 48-hour ticket (€12.50/$15) – Two days of unlimited travel on any public transportation from the moment of validation.
- 72-hour ticket (€18/$21.50) – Three days of unlimited travel on any public transportation in Rome from the moment of validation.
Tickets can be purchased at the kiosks near the stations (there are many around Termini Station) or from machines on the Metro platforms. Ensure you validate tickets at the validation points before use!
