How to Plan a Perfect Sicily Road Trip Itinerary (7-14 Days)

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How Many Days Do You Need in Sicily?

At a high level, we believe you`ll need at least two weeks (14 days) to experience both the eastern and western regions of Sicily comprehensively. Anything less than that and you`d have to cut out some of the best sights in each area in an attempt to fit it all in, which is something we would absolutely not recommend.

Even fourteen days is likely to imply you’re just experiencing the highlights. We’ve done our best to select and decide between possible destinations according to our own individual experiences exploring the island, however even with three weeks we made some tough judgments on things to bypass.

Any 7 or 10 day schedule that has you spending one night in each place is unrealistic and not practical or enjoyable.

Trust me, we`ve done it that way on prior trips, and opting to spend more time in fewer places nearly always proves to be a good decision.

With limited time in Sicily, focus on either eastern or western Sicily, move at a leisurely pace, and explore the places you visit a bit more deeply if you have less than two weeks there.

We`ve put together a 14 day itinerary below, but also outline options for 7-10 days to help determine how to fill your time.

The good news is that, once you’ve chosen a route, you can read through the pertinent sections of the thorough itinerary (and let’s be clear, we do mean THOROUGH) to provide you an idea of what to do and see, where to lodge, how to get places, and more.

Where to Start and End Your Trip

The condensed response is “it depends.” And it depends on two primary considerations.

The initial factor to consider is the mode of transportation used to arrive in Sicily. There are two main airport hubs for flying into Sicily – Catania and Palermo.

Messina, the northeastern tip of the island, is where travelers will arrive if driving or taking the train from the mainland region (both requiring a ferry).

The second factor it relies on is how much time you have available.

As mentioned above (and you will hear us reiterate below, because we believe it is that important), you truly cannot experience the entire island in 7-10 days. Or even 14 days, really, but we think that is the bare minimum time needed to visit both eastern and western Sicily on your itinerary.

With 7-10 days, focusing your exploration on either the eastern or western half of Sicily means flying into and out of the same major airport in Catania or Palermo.

If you have around two weeks, it works best if you fly into one location (or take a ferry to Messina) and fly out of the other, which will save you some hours of driving, but will cost a little extra in terms of rental car fees, which will likely incur an additional one-way charge.

This detailed itinerary below is organized in this structure, just know that if wanting to fly into and out of the same airport at the beginning and conclusion of your trip, it will necessitate some driving and be less convenient.

We believe the cost merits the added convenience and time saved, but others may feel differently, so we want to provide the choice!

Getting Around Sicily

There’s really only one thing you need to know about getting around Sicily: you need a car once you’re outside of the major cities, which are basically Palermo and Catania (and we’d add Syracuse just because it’s so compact and walkable).

Do You Need to Rent a Car in Sicily?

In brief, most likely. Renting a car is the only way you’ll be able to reach some of the beaches and sites outside of city centers. Once outside the center of most cities in Sicily, public transportation is sporadic at best, and nonexistent at worst.

Can public transportation be used to put together an itinerary? Yes. However, some of the more remote destinations in Sicily that ended up being among our favorites may be missed out on. Also yes.

Renting a vehicle would allow the most flexibility and independence to explore according to your own schedule. HOWEVER, we advise avoiding having a rental car in major cities like Palermo, Catania, and even Syracuse, where you won`t need it if following the below itinerary, and it`s more troublesome than helpful.

For that reason, we’d recommend picking up your car AFTER you visit Catania and Syracuse, and returning it BEFORE arriving in Palermo. It’ll also preserve money on parking and fuel, bonus!

Important to note is that those unable to operate vehicles with manual transmissions will pay a significant premium for automatics. We discovered this reality as automatic cars in Sicily are less commonplace than manual models, an inadvisable setting for first-time manual drivers.

We rented through AutoEuropeand had a great experience from obtaining the keys in Siracusa to returning them at the airport in Palermo. We would strongly suggest getting some type of insurance coverage, because unforeseen circumstances can occur in Sicily. Particularly with vehicles, with tiny narrow streets and reckless driving everywhere. Click here to view prices and availability for a rental car through Auto Europe.

Driving in Sicily

Driving in Sicily is often described as a nightmare. And in some aspects, this is accurate. It`s not recommended for nervous drivers or those uncomfortable with operating a vehicle even in ideal scenarios.

Here are a few pointers we’ve gathered from our Sicily road trip to help you navigate the (sometimes unpredictable) streets of Sicily.

To begin, forget conventions you assumed were steadfast – right-of-way and yielding, obeying speed limit signs, and more – driving in Sicily is much more fluid. Individuals go with the current, view any signage as recommendation rather than rule, and somehow it all works out by day`s end.

Even our guide for our trip to Mount Etna, who grew up in Catania, said he dislikes driving in the city. As we sat at a stoplight in the heart of Catania, we watched not one but two separate vehicles pull up next to us, look around, and drive right through the red light.

See? Said our guide. A suggestion. 

Driving in Sicily was not as bad as anticipated, but it differed significantly from driving at home and other places traveled with a vehicle. Here are a few things worth keeping in mind.

• ZTLs: In many cities, there is an area in the center where local residential permits are required to drive without limitations. These regions are marked with signs displaying “Zona Traffico Limitato” along with hours and dates. Sometimes, your lodgings will be inside this zone, meaning you shouldn`t operate a motor vehicle to the hotel. Park outside the ZTL (more parking details upcoming) and walk in, or message your hotel beforehand and ask about the best way to arrive by automobile.
• Parking: Always have a concept of where you wish to stop your vehicle before you arrive at a location. Search “parcheggio” on Google maps to find parking lots (usually requiring payment, though some are free). Or improvise and try to find street parking. No sign or white curb? It’s free (though look out for limited times – e.g. 30 minute parking). Blue lines or curb? You pay at a payment station, which can usually be found nearby and often only take coins.
• Roundabouts: Listen, I’m 100% on board with roundabouts after a Freakonomics episode on how they save lives and money. But the way Italians handle them, I’m not sure they can possibly save lives. Yield to traffic in both directions, because there’s no guarantee they will return the courtesy. This is really only a problem in cities.
• Pace Limits: Signage is actually relatively clear – keep an eye out for signs with a white circle with a red perimeter and a number in the center. However, nearly nobody adheres to them. Countless times on one of the primary highways where I was dutifully going the pace limit, and I’d be passed by essentially every car that came by. And people passing prohibited signs (or double white lines)? Don’t anticipate anyone to stick to them. Two lane roads often become three and four lanes with people passing going in both directions.

Public Transportation in Sicily

Public transportation is an acceptable option for visiting very specific parts of the island. It can be quite useful for getting between cities on the east coast, for example. But where public transportation falls short is accessing areas outside major cities.

As an example, we truly enjoyed venturing outside of Noto to the scenic Vendicari Reserve and seaside Marzamemi, and it represented one of our favored afternoons in Sicily. You would face tremendous difficulties accomplishing that without the use of an automobile. Indeed, it would be virtually impossible.

Public transportation suffices if limiting your trip to major cities and destinations along the east coast like Taormina, Catania, and Siracusa. Exploring farther offbeaten paths requires independent transportation.

Trains – through Trenitalia – are an option on the east coast (and eastern Sicily generally) in the passage between Messina and Siracusa, but buses through Interbus are often a faster, cheaper, and overall superior mode for getting between places in Sicily due to the number of transitions necessary on trains.

Planning Your Sicily Itinerary: Route Options

It bears repeating in case you missed it earlier: Sicily is extremely large. It’s the biggest island in the Mediterranean at just under 10,000 square miles, which implies there’s simply no plausible way you’re going to see everything there is to discover in 7, 10, or 14 days.

It’s about selecting and choosing options, and we’re here to assist you in deciding what to select and choose based on our own personal experiences road tripping around Sicily.

With only 7 or 10 days, we think you should choose between eastern and western Sicily and focus your time in just one area, rather than trying to quickly see the entire island in a short period.

By the way, we have an entirely separate guide dedicated to assisting you make the most of 7 days in Sicily, if you only have a week on the island.

With two weeks or additional time, we think you can experience the entire island, but it will still feel a little rushed. For context, we had three weeks there, and there are still places we missed entirely and are already contemplating planning the return trip.

The thorough itinerary below offers a complete 14 day road trip schedule for Sicily, which includes stops along the east, south, and western areas of the island. If you have two weeks in Sicily, that would be a good starting point.

But what if you have less time?

Here are some itinerary options for those of you who have 7 or 10 days. We’re offering options for the eastern and western parts of Sicily too!

You can then take your shorter itinerary and utilize the information below in the detailed itinerary to plan what to do and see and where to stay in each location.

7 Days in Sicily

If you have a week, you should head straight to our guide talking about spending seven days in Sicily, where we explore in more detail how to spend seven days either on the eastern portion of the island OR the western portion of the island.

Once more, we strongly advise against attempting to see everything in just seven days.

You`ll end up rushing through everything hurriedly and it won`t be nearly as fulfilling as taking it at a slower pace and having the opportunity to stop at that random cafe you happen upon for an afternoon granita, or an aperol spritz on the coast.

Eastern Sicily in 7 Days

If you want to focus on eastern Sicily, which includes gems like Mount Etna, Taormina, and Syracuse (among other things), here’s our best thinking on how to spend your time.

• Day 1: Arrive in Catania & Explore
• Day 2: Pick up Car and Taormina
• Day 3: One Day Trip to Mount Etna (Stay in Taormina)
• Day 4: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 5: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 6: Val di Noto (Beaches & Marzamemi)
• Day 7: Val di Noto & Fly Home from Catania

Western Sicily in 7 Days

In Western Sicily, here is a suggested itinerary for spending your time.

• Day 1: Arrive in Palermo & Explore
• Day 2: Palermo
• Day 3: Day Trip to Cefalu (Sleep in Palermo)
• Day 4: Pick up Rental Vehicle, Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro, San Vito Lo Capo
• Day 5: Segesta & Drive to Trapani
• Day 6: Day Trip to Erice from Trapani
• Day 7: Fly Home from Palermo

10 Days in Sicily

With 10 days available, you could add a few other destinations in either western or eastern Sicily, but we really think focusing your time on one region alone, rather than both, is best.

Eastern Sicily in 10 Days

With 10 days, add on Agrigento, home of the Valley of the Temples, and a stop in Modica or Ragusa along the way.

One other thing to note: you can fly out of either Palermo or Catania here since they’re roughly equal distance. It’s worth checking prices, but it’ll probably be cheaper to fly in and out of the same airport if we had to predict.

• Day 1: Arrive in Catania & Explore
• Day 2: Pick up Vehicle Early & Travel to Taormina
• Day 3: One Day Trip to Mount Etna (Stay in Taormina)
• Day 4: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 5: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 6: Val di Noto
• Day 7: Val di Noto
• Day 8: Agrigento (Stop in Modica & Ragusa along the route)
• Day 9: Agrigento (Valley of the Temples)
• Day 10: Take a trip back home from either Palermo or Catania, as both cities are equidistant from your location

Western Sicily

With 10 days in Western Sicily, add a few extra days on the coast using Trapani as your home base.

• Day 1: Arrive in Palermo & Explore
• Day 2: Palermo
• Day 3: Day Trip to Cefalu
• Day 4: Pick Up Car & Drive to Castellammare del Golfo
• Day 5: Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro (Stay in Castellammare del Golfo)
• Day 6: Segesta & San Vito Lo Capo
• Day 7: Trapani (Day trip to Erice)
• Day 8: Selinunte & Drive to Agrigento
• Day 9: Agrigento (Valley of the Temples) 
• Day 10: Fly Home from Palermo

Two Weeks in Sicily

Finally, 14 days in Sicily means you can fit in the major sights in both halves of the island (though you’ll still need to decide what to see and save for another trip).

This version of the Sicily itinerary works best if you fly into either Catania or Palermo, and fly out of the other city.

In other words, it’s best done as a one direction itinerary, which means you might be paying a premium for an open jaw flight (a flight that flies into one city and departs from another) and a rental car, which often include an additional fee for one-way rentals.

For what it`s worth, we undertook it as a one-way trip, and feel the additional cost is justified by the convenience.

However, if that assessment is not agreed with, it is straightforward enough to do with only going through a single airport. Extra time will need to be budgeted (three to four hours with traffic) for returning from one end of the island to the other.

You can do this road trip in either direction. We did it east to west, which is why it’s oriented that way here, but you can pretty easily flip it.

Another note: You won`t want a car in either Palermo, Catania, or Syracuse. Rent a vehicle when ready to leave the city and return it before exploring on foot within city limits. Transportation won`t be needed once in the city.

Below provides a itinerary outline for a two week trip to Sicily, with more details found further along.

• Day 1: Arrival in Catania & Exploration
• Day 2: Day Trip to Taormina (Stay in Catania)
• Day 3: Day outing to Mount Etna (Stay in Catania)
• Day 4: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 5: Syracuse & Ortigia
• Day 6: Pick up Rental Car & Drive to Noto
• Day 7: Spend the day exploring the Val di Noto region, known for its beaches and the town of Marzamemi
• Day 8: Travel to Agrigento making a stop in Modica along the route

Day 9: Agrigento (Valley of the Temples)
Day 10: Selinunte, Segesta, and Drive to Castellammare del Golfo

• Day 11: Day Trip to Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro (Sleep in Castellammare del Golfo)
• Day 12: Return Rental Vehicle to Palermo Airport & Palermo
• Day 13: Palermo
• Day 14: Fly Home from Palermo

Two primary additions could be made with extra time. First is a day trip from Palermo to the lovely beach town of Cefalu along Sicily`s northern coast. Second involves stopping in Trapani to visit the hilltop town of Erice, offering scenic views, but wasn`t entirely appealing necessitating relegation to the “more time” section after our visit there.

In the “More Time?” section under the detailed itinerary, you’ll find our thoughts on what to do and see in both of those locations.

A Complete Guide to Planning a Two Week Sicily Road Trip

Now that we`ve provided you all the key information needed to plan your Sicily trip, here is the full guide to developing your Sicily itinerary!

Please note that in this itinerary, you do not need a rental car for the first five days. Our guidance – and this is exactly what we did – is to pick up your rental car in Syracuse, before driving to Noto. This allows you to avoid driving and parking in two of the more stressful cities on this itinerary (Catania and Syracuse).

Then, plan on leaving your rental car at the Palermo airport (at the airport) upon arrival – you do not need a rental car in Palermo either, and it’s equally hectic and stressful to drive there (if not more so).

This also has the added benefit of lowering your costs a little, since you are reducing four to five days of rental car expenses (gas, parking, tolls, etc).

There is one implication here, which we will briefly mention in the Mount Etna section below, and that implication is that you may not be able to reach the summit of Etna because of how the timing, tours, and public transportation schedules work out.

If reaching the summit of Mount Etna is a must for you, then hiring a car will let you arrive at Refugio de Sapienza before 9:00, when the summit excursions depart.

Note that I do mean the summit, which is only accessible by guided tour and under good conditions. You can still arrive at the Torre del Filosofo and the Laghetto Crater via public transportation or a guided tour from Catania.

It’s noticeably quieter in the evening, when most of the day visitors are gone, and those who remain have started to head into local restaurants for dinner.

With that out of the way, you`re now free to embark on exploring Sicily!

Day 1: Exploring Catania

On your first day, you’ll be arriving in Catania, the second largest city in Sicily and, in many ways, the forgotten city in Sicily.

I say the forgotten city because a lot of people – I’d venture to guess the majority – skip Catania altogether in favor of places like Taormina and Syracuse, which we think would be a mistake for two explanations.

First, there’s no better place for exploring Catania, Mount Etna, and Taormina than, well, Catania. It has the best transport for getting to all those areas. Your other choice is Taormina, which isn’t as well-connected AND is more expensive (though it is quite charming).

Second, Catania is worth a day in its own right! There are a couple of very cool things to do, see, and eat in Catania, and it’s a good introduction to Eastern Sicily and Etna’s history.

Catania has been around for millennia – there is proof of humans going back to the Neolithic Era – and has been home to Greeks, Romans, and multiple other groups and combinations of people over that time. It’s literally a city built on top of a city built on top of another city, as you’ll learn over the course of your time there.

In the 17th century CE, Catania was influenced by two natural disasters within twenty-four years. First, in 1669, was the eruption of Mount Etna, which lacked any major effects on the city in relation to destruction but did permanently modify the northern and western sides of the city, and pushed the coastline farther out two kilometers into the sea(which was Remarkable). Afterwards came the significant one.

In 1693, a 7.4 magnitude earthquake devastated most of Catania, and the city had to be largely rebuilt, along with most of the rest of Eastern Sicily. And from those remains, Sicilian Baroque architecture was born.

As mentioned, plenty of history here merits spending a day understanding the context surrounding upcoming sites on the first half of this road trip.

Things to Do in Catania

Below is a collection of activities we enjoyed in Catania, in no specific sequence. Note that you won’t find any of the numerous day trips we took from Catania here, because you’re exploring Taormina and Mount Etna over the course of the next two days.

• Guided Benedictine Monastery Tour: This was our favorite Catania experience, combining history and architecture. Once among Europe`s largest monasteries, the hour-long tour discusses the building`s development and how the 1669 eruption shaped the city. At the time of writing, reservations were required as detailed on their website.

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• Granita: Granita is a specialty dish in Sicily, and it can be found at nearly every cafe and bakery across the island. But what exactly is it? It includes crushed ice, sugar, and seasonal local ingredients like pistachio, almond, fruits such as lemons and strawberries, and even coffee. It is delicious. Our favorite in Catania was from Caffetteria Villaroel ( here on Google Maps) – try the pistachio flavor if available!”
• The Roman Theater of Catania: One of many structures from Ancient Rome you will see on this itinerary, this place provides a great example of how the modern city is built atop an older civilization. You’ll observe contemporary buildings towering above excavated areas unveiling a theater constructed in the 300s BCE. Spending around an hour exploring here is worthwhile, and signage (despite some questionable Google translations) aids comprehension of what’s visible. Pre-purchase tickets online (mandatory when we visited), or buy on site.
• Exploring local cuisine in Catania: The food of Sicily is outstanding, and Catania offers a great starting point. The volcanic soil of nearby Mount Etna is renowned for producing excellent produce, wine, and nuts. We`d be remiss not to mention the lively and energetic fish market directly above our apartment. In addition to seafood, local vendors sell meat, cheese, fruits and vegetables, and nuts all sourced from the surrounding area. It operates daily except Sunday just south of Piazza del Duomo. You should try pasta alla norma in Catania, a pasta dish blending tomatoes, eggplant, and salty ricotta salata cheese (which we found quite delicious).

For more of our favorite things to do in Catania, be sure to read our more detailed guide here.

Where to Stay in Catania

You’ll be using Catania as your home base for the initial three days of this itinerary, so maintain that in mind when selecting where to reside.

At a high level, the best place to lodge in Catania is between Piazza del Duomo and Villa Bellini.

I`d suggest staying within a few blocks east or west of Via Etnea if possible. We remained just off of Piazza del Duomo – near the fish market – and it was an incredibly convenient location in terms of centrality and walkability.

Very much worth the somewhat fishy fragrance drifting upwards from the street below in the afternoons, when we were passing time with the windows open.

We lodged at the Duomo Housing Catania – specifically the deluxe apartment – which was significantly larger than some other places we`ve stayed in Italy.

Seriously, it’s almost as big as our old apartment in San Francisco. We should note that if we were to do it again, we’d choose the apartment with a terrace which is smaller, but has a nice view of the Duomo.

If you are on a budget, we had originally booked the Yard Hostel in Catania, but at the time we were traveling we weren`t quite certain about staying in a place with so many shared facilities, so we ultimately cancelled.

The accommodations excited us, despite being a few blocks north of Villa Bellini. They offer dormitories and private rooms consistently receiving glowing reviews.

Here are some additional options in the area that we’ve recommended for you.

• Le Suites Del Duomo House – another apartment alternative near Piazza del Duomo.
• Ferrini Home – Etnea Collection – excellent apartments at the northern extremity of Via Etnea.
• Habitat – a magnificent and stylish boutique accommodation a few blocks west of Via Etnea.

Click here to find the appropriate place to stay in Catania

Day 2: Day Trip to Taormina (Stay in Catania)

On your second day, take a day trip up the coast to Taormina, a lovely little seaside town up on a hill with great views and an ancient theater that’s well worth visiting.

Remember, you’re staying back in Catania on this night (if you’re following our advice of picking up your car at the end of your time in Syracuse).

Getting to Taormina

Without personal transportation, there are two ways to get from Catania to Taormina. You can take the train from Catania Centrale station, which is about a 15-20 minute walk from Piazza del Duomo. Or you can travel by bus with Interbus.”

The train is faster at 35-60 minutes or so (depending on whether you choose the quicker Intercity train or the slower and more affordable regional trains) but drops you off at the bottom of the hill under Taormina.

You can either walk up the hill (that’s what we did) in around 20 minutes or take the bus (Interbus, again) that goes up the hill from the train station and costs 1.90 Euros.

Book through Trenitalia from Catania Centrale to Taormina-Giardini (the train station at the bottom of the hill).

Here is the path that you’ll follow to walk from the train station to the center of town.

The bus – via Interbus – takes more time, but deposits travelers much closer into town as advised by our Mount Etna guide. We rode the train and walked from the station uphill arriving soaked in downpour, though the trek proved manageable.

The bus takes approximately 75 minutes to complete the journey – it’s direct and cheaper at 5.50 Euros each way.

Here is the location of the bus station near Catania Centrale on Google Maps: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Stazione+Autobus+Interbus/@37.506792,15.0977245,17z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x1313e3d8f9edb871:0x1e01185e8a33f151!8m2!3d37.5083365!4d15.0981763

Overall, both are good choices, though the bus being more frequent, direct, and cheaper renders it a more appealing choice for most people.

Things to Do in Taormina

Here is a collection of things we enjoyed in Taormina, presented in no particular sequence. You can essentially spend as much or as little time in Taormina as you’d like, but be aware of train and bus schedules so that you know when you need to be heading back (and don’t get stuck waiting for an hour).

• The Greek Theater: The first destination one should visit is the spectacular Teatro Antico di Taormina, situated atop a hill with amazing ocean perspectives from the seating region. Events and shows are held here, and I`d surely recommend checking if anything is occurring around the time you`re in town and structuring which day you do Taormina around that. Additional information here.
• Granite at Bam Bar: After expending so much energy through walking, you truly deserve a treat. And Bam Bar should be your pick for a treat. Come for the granita, which is so good we in fact went back twice within a couple hours, stay for the pastries and pre-dinner drinks as evening approaches. They`re renowned for granita, and the rotating flavors are posted on the board under the canopy. Secure a spot outside for engaging people watching.
• Wander along Corso Umberto: Corso Umberto is the primary, pedestrian-only road running through the heart of Taormina, and is saturated with shops, bars, and restaurants. It’s absolutely packed with tourists, but it’s worth a stroll. Pause to admire the views and the church at Piazza IX Aprile, you might even be fortunate enough to catch a wedding, like we did!
• Hike up to the Church of Madonna della Rocca: For an exquisite panoramic view over Taormina and the ocean beyond, tackle the steep climb to this hilltop place of worship (find it here on Google Maps). The perspectives are stunning. You can continue up to Castello di Mola all the way at the summit for even more outstanding views, but it`s quite the ascent. Consider taking a taxi up then walking back down. There are some nice restaurants up there for lunch too.
• Enjoy the Beach! Isola Bella is at the base of the hill tucked safely in a sheltered cove. It’s a small island that, during low tide, connects to the mainland by a narrow walking path. We were in Taormina during a time of fierce thunderstorms, thus we passed on the beach for apparent justifications, but it’s conveniently accessible from the town. You can either take the cable car (info here) or descend on foot. We’d propose strolling down, and utilizing the cable car for the return climb. There’s an additional, sandier though less unique beach just north of Isola Bella at Mazzaro.

Day 3: Day Trip to Mount Etna (Stay in Catania)

If you don’t have a car, you essentially have two options for visiting Mount Etna from Catania: go with a guided tour, or use the limited public transportation to get there and back and explore on your own.

The third choice, which does involve a visit to the summit if desired – is only pertinent if you have a car, and involves driving up to Rifugio Sapienza – which essentially acts as the entrance to Etna – and either meeting up with a guided summit tour that leaves at 9:00 am, or exploring independently.

There is no disputing that this is likely the simplest, most convenient choice for most visitors aiming to reach the summit. However, it also necessitates additional rental car days, parking in Catania, and parking in Syracuse, all of which present some troubles.

Visiting Mount Etna on a Guided Tour from Catania

Ultimately, this is the option we opted to go with, and we’re generally quite pleased we did. These tours include transportation from the center of Catania, which is handy if you don’t have a car because, as we’ll cover in a second, public transportation is nearly nonexistent.

There were two tour options to select from – excursions visiting the common tourist locales, and tours venturing somewhat off the well-trodden route. We opted for the latter alternative, and were glad we did because we observed a mere eight other individuals over the entirety of the day (that is, until we arrived at Rifugio Sapienza and observed where everyone was located).

You’re at a high altitude location. Remember that you’re located at a substantial height in the Rocky Mountains (the parking area here is at nearly 6,400 feet above sea level, and you’ll climb to around 8,000 feet by the trail`s end), so if you’re arriving from sea level, the hike is going to feel somewhat more difficult than what you`re used to. This is why we advise starting with an easier route first to get acclimated, and tackling the more challenging trails later in your trip. You can learn more in our Banff schedules or Canadian Rockies itinerary (which includes Jasper and Yoho).

If hiking is not particularly enticing to you, we would propose either this sunset jeep tour, or this day trip from Catania, both of which involve some hiking around the craters.

Visiting Mount Etna On Your Own

Keep in mind that, as we discuss this option, we’re talking about doing it without a rental car. Visiting Etna by other means of transportation is relatively easy – just take public transportation to Rifugio Sapienza, disembark, and take the cable car up to do some hiking.

Without a rental car is a bit more complicated. 

Based on the details provided, there was precisely one bus traveling from Catania to Rifugio Sapienza at the time of writing, and one bus going back from there to Catania. The bus departs from near Catania Centrale at 0815 hours and arrives at Etna around 1030 hours. The return bus leaves Catania exactly at 1630 hours and is scheduled to arrive back in Catania around 1830 hours.

As shown, adhering to this schedule complicates joining one of the guided climbs departing promptly at 9:00 am from the cable car station near Rifugio, the starting point for summit ascents.

Based on our research and guidance, we recommend paying the extra 30 Euros for a roundtrip cable car rather than hiking uphill to the volcanic craters. The cable car saves an unpleasant, unscenic stretch made harder in summer`s heat. While hiking is usually preferred, this particular hike lacks enjoyment or beauty.

Once you reach the top of the cable car, two options are available. The choice we would propose is hiking, which is more scenic and free of charge. You`ll climb approximately 500 additional meters to reach the craters, and this hike is more scenic as you`ll find yourself in the heart of the volcanic landscapes that make Etna such an otherworldly experience.

This highly recommended guide on accessing Mount Etna via public transportation would be a wise read for those planning to explore the area in this manner.

Day 4 & 5: Syracuse & Ortigia

When thinking back on my previous limited awareness of eastern Sicily before planning our trip there, Syracuse was one of two places I was previously acquainted with. And the reason for my familiarity is rather amusing, and does in fact connect rather well.

While growing up, I used to spend hours and hours playing Rome: Total War, a video game where you set out as a faction in Europe (usually Roman) to build an empire (mostly through violence and deception).

Syracuse was always an important city in that specific game because it sat on an island – Sicily – that was a perfect base between Italy, Spain, North Africa, and Greece.

That additionally proves accurate in real life. The city was founded by Greeks and became a very powerful participant in the Mediterranean power dynamic just before becoming portion of the Roman Empire, and briefly the capital of the Byzantine Empire in the late 7th Century.

Then, control of the city changed as the Aghlabids, a kingdom of Muslims from North Africa, held it for two centuries before the Byzantines regained control of the area.

All of those influences can be seen as one explores the twin cities of Syracuse and Ortigia, from the prevalence of couscous in the local cuisine (originating from North Africa) to the archaeological ruins that showcase excellent examples of Greek and Roman architecture.

Like much of eastern Sicily, the earthquake of 1693 forever changed architectural styles, so fewer examples of prior influences can be seen on Syracuse`s buildings since it was essentially rebuilt during the 18th and 19th centuries.

The entire city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has helped to preserve the urban area’s architecture from overdevelopment due to tourism. It’s one of the most visited tourist spots in Sicily, so you’re likely to hear all forms of different languages as you’re walking around. Especially if there’s a huge cruise ship in the port.

A Quick Geography Lesson

This is important, which is why we’ve decided to add a brief note here to make sure you know what we’re discussing below.

‘Syracuse’ denotes the mainland city connected via a small island called ‘Ortigia,’ famous for its narrow cobbled roads and magnificent coastal vistas.

You’ll want to stay in Ortigia, which is the more charming, romantic part of the city, but the most important sight in Syracuse – the Parco Archeologico Neapolis – is on the mainland, approximately 30 minutes away from Ortigia if traveled by foot.

Visitors will spend most of their time in Ortigia, with an excursion out to the park to see the incredible Greek and Roman ruins found there.

Getting to Siracusa

Syracuse is another place that we’d recommend avoiding driving around in, and frankly, you won’t need a car anyway since the town is quite compact – you’d essentially just park the vehicle and leave it until you’re ready to head to your next destination.

Planning to take the train from Catania Centrale to Siracusa (book through Trenitalia) or the bus using Interbus (you can board the bus from Piazza Borsellino, which is a brief walk from Piazza del Duomo).

You should be aware that the train station in Syracuse is approximately a 20-25 minute walk from Ortigia, so you`ll want to plan on walking or catching a taxi from the train station.

Things to Do in Syracuse & Ortigia

Here are some of our favorite activities and attractions to enjoy in Syracuse and Ortigia. We’ll begin with details on the Parco Archeologico Neapolis site – the most prominent archaeological area – and then provide additional options for exploring while you’re here.

Visiting the Parco Archeologico Neapolis

The primary attraction visited by tourists in the city is the Archaeological Park, where visitors can find both a Greek and Roman theater along with beautiful gardens filled with citrus trees, limestone quarries, and more. The park can be accessed via this link: Archaeological Park.

It’s well worth a couple of hours of your time, which is around the duration it will take you to wander through the three main sections of the park – the Greek Theater, the Roman Theater, and the limestone quarries and gardens around the Latomia del Paradiso.

You can purchase a combined ticket that includes the Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi (about 15 minutes away on foot), which is worth visiting if you are really into archaeology, but we found it very overwhelming. It has literally hundreds of pieces of pottery from various eras, among other artifacts, though the pygmy elephant skeletons were adorable.

After the park, we didn’t really have the brainpower or attention span for it, but it might have gone better if we had split the two activities up on different days.

We would most strongly advise arriving at the park opening time of 8:30 am when it opens for two fundamental reasons. Initially, because crowds swell significantly starting around 10:00 am, granting you a couple hours head start to view some parts of the park in comparative peace and quiet. Secondly, as summer heat intensifies tremendously and shade is sparingly available.

It costs 10 Euros per person for the park only, and 13.50 Euros for a combo ticket incorporating the Museo Paolo Orsi.

More Things to Do in Siracusa and Ortigia

Here are a couple different things to do in Syracuse and Ortigia

• Circumnavigate Ortigia at Sunset:One of our most enjoyed activities in Ortigia was to simply stroll. We ended up walking all around the perimeter of the island three times. It’s beautiful, particularly in that gentle, soft light that occurs within an hour of sunrise or sunset. It would make a good pre-Aperitivo task, and if you do it from the northeastern tip to the western end, you’ll be in a good place to grab a spritz at the end of the walk. Make a stop at the Castello Maniace along the way. Something like this would be a good route.

Take Walks` Best of Florence Tour (2 hours 30 minutes) – As mentioned in our guides to Rome, we are fond of Take Walks tours (if interested, read about our amazing Colosseum tour in Rome). This small-group walking tour of Florence covers the backgrounds and stories of the city`s highlights, from the unique Ponte Vecchio bridge to Florence Duomo and more. The tour also includes skipping ticket lines to see Michelangelo`s David at the Florence Accademia, which is included later in this itinerary`s schedule. Benefitting from the tour experience and the priority access works out efficiently.

• Gelateria Gusto: Incredible pistachio granita, though they’re also known for excellent gelato.
• Sabadì Cioccolato: If you’re unable to visit Modica (according to this itinerary, you will go there), then you should stop at this location to sample some Modica chocolate, which we found to be amazing and somewhat different than the chocolate we are accustomed to. It is slowly cooked at a lower temperature, meaning the sugar does not dissolve, and they do not include cocoa butter. Combined, the outcome is a somewhat grainy texture, which reminds me a lot of chocolate in Mexico that is stoneground. You can get it plain or with various fun flavor mixes, and this place – which is near Piazza del Duomo – is a good location to get an introduction to it with many flavors you can try and purchase.
• Enjoy drinks while observing the sun descending: Acquire an beverage around sunset ( truly, come 30-45 minutes earlier to reserve a seat) at one of the numerous bars along the southwestern tip of the island. Our choices would be Mikatu for their wines, but we got hampered by thunderstorms BOTH nights we were there. Other good alternatives sans the view are Enoteca Solaria (for amazing wine) and Verga (for the picturesque courtyard and cocktails).

Where to Stay in Syracuse & Ortigia

It’s worth repeating: stay in Ortigia! Even if you’re on a tight budget, we think you’ll regret staying in the far less charming mainland area, even if you’ll save a few pennies.

We were housed at Stay in Ortigia Guest House, a cluster of stylish flats directly in the heart of Ortigia near the Temple of Apollo on a peaceful side street. The flats are compact, but have full kitchen areas, modern design elements, and access to laundry services (which we desperately needed at this stage in our Italy trip). We’d recommend it, particularly if you’re searching for a flat with cooking facilities.

Here are some other possibilities that were on our shortlist for Ortigia.

• The accommodation Alla Giudecca caught our attention multiple times as we wandered around the perimeter of Ortigia at sunrise and sunset, taking in the scenic views. We noticed the rooms with balconies facing the ocean and thought “that appears rather pleasant.”
• Abodes of the Zagare Ortigia: This historic lodging in the always-appealing Jewish Quarter of Ortigia, which was our preferred part of the island to explore aimlessly. The placement is excellent regarding being central to virtually everything you’ll want to see in Ortigia, and you can opt for hotel-style rooms and suites with a bit more space (and, in some cases, a balcony!).

click here to find the suitable place to stay in Ortigia

Day 6 & 7: Val di Noto

Travel Time & Distance: 40 Minutes / 38 km (remember, collect your rental car in Syracuse on the morning of day 6, before your drive to Noto! You`ll need it from there to Palermo, where you can drop it off on your way into the city to explore freely without a car from that point).

The Val di Noto stands out as one of the crown jewels of southeastern Sicily, with the towns in the region designated a UNESCO world heritage site in the early 2000s.

The town of Noto itself was entirely destroyed during the 1693 earthquake, and was rebuilt in an entirely different location – you can actually still visit what remains of the old town at Noto Antica, but we likely would not recommend it if you’re short on time.

Noto perfectly exemplifies the architectural style of Sicilian Baroque, which makes sense considering the architects reconstructing the city after the earthquake in the 17th and 18th Centuries essentially had a completely blank canvas to work with.

There are three notable attractions in the Val di Noto that we believe are worth spending approximately 36 hours to experience, and more time if available. They are:

• A morning hike to the beaches located in Riserva di Vendicari nature reserve
• An afternoon in Marzamemi, a small fishing village on the coast
• Spending an afternoon and evening in the city of Noto, which is renowned for its beautiful baroque architecture crafted from limestone that glows in the afternoon sun.

What to Do in the Val di Noto

As one can see, there are two afternoon/evening events scheduled there, which implies you’ll need two nights in the Val di Noto.

Here’s how we would spend them. 

Exploring the Town of Noto

Spend your first afternoon and evening exploring the hillside city of Noto overlooking the valley to the south. Don’t miss:

• Caffè Sicilia: This establishment is renowned for their almond granita, which I was uncertain would match the hype. To provide a teaser: it does. They offer a version called a “cappuccino” comprised of a small helping of coffee granita topped with an abundant portion of almond granita. The almond granita is superb, and their pastries appear quite impressive too.
• Putia del Coppo: A cone full of freshly caught fried fish. All gluten free! They go on holiday from… checks notes… October to April, so it’s really a summer thing. They also have a location in Modica.
• Cathedral of Noto: We aren`t usually big fans of visiting all churches, but this one is rather intriguing. Inside, the stained glass windows below the dome caught our attention, as did the highly realistic paintings depicting the passion of Christ (meaning the crucifixion), which I felt provided a thought-provoking way of experiencing Jesus` suffering through art. Be sure to cover your shoulders and remove hats upon entering.
• Traverse an Itinerary ComparableThis Travelogue, which takes you up some staircases to some scenic views. Obviously, you are exploring, so feel free to wander around a bit.

Recreational vehicle stops in Noto: We found multiple free street areas to park a car near a nearby gas station, which is a 10-15 minute walk into the center of the town. We had also scouted a parking area, which required payment, but is affordable and extremely close to the center.

The Vendicari Reserve

The next morning, head to the shorelines in the Vendicari Reserve, which was extremely recommended to us from the hosts at our little B&B in the countryside area.

Getting to the beach is a little more complicated than just “heading to the beach!” as there are multiple entry points and approaches.

Essentially, there are three main beaches in the reserve: Spiaggia di Vendicari, Spiaggia di Calamosche (the prettiest and busiest), and Spiaggia di Marianelli (the least clothed).

So, after traveling down a narrow dirt path and finding nobody present to accept our payment to park (it was the offseason, so I presume it’s different than summertime), we suggest: heading straight to the main entrance ( here – disregard the single negative review, at the time of writing, it’s 3 Euros to park for the day, which is reasonable for this area) and then walking to the beaches from there.

It’s a scenic walk along the coast, and it is certainly worth the effort to get there. It will save you the hassle of trying to navigate the poor roads in a rental car, and the walk itself is beautiful.

Entrance to the reserve costs 3.50 Euros per visitor (plus the parking fee), and be sure to bring ample water as there is no shade and it can get extremely hot during the summer months.

An Afternoon / Evening in Marzamemi 

After spending the afternoon exploring the natural attractions around southern Sicily such as the rocky coastline, sandy beaches, and crystal clear waters, we headed to the small town of Marzamemi at our host`s recommendation to unwind for the evening. Our host at the farm stay we were staying at suggested this place, otherwise we likely would not have visited it on our own initiative.

The small town does not come alive until at least 7:00 pm, so it may be worth going back and tidying up somewhat before returning. It is a quaint place, so there is really not that much to see, but we would propose finding a spot for an appetizer and evening meal around Palazzo di Villadorata, which was the most lively part of town when we were there.

Parking in Marzamemi: We were there in the offseason and found ample street parking for free, but if you can’t find free parking, this lot is highly recommended and located a couple of blocks from the core area.

Where to Stay in the Val di Noto

We suggest residing outside of the city of Noto itself, as the Val di Noto countryside presents truly breathtaking scenery along with abundant agriculture, wine production, and attractive beaches further from city limits.

There are plenty of agriturismos, where one can lodge beneath olive, pomegranate, and almond trees, slow down the pace, and truly appreciate the natural beauty and productivity of this region in southeast Sicily.

We stayed at Fiori di Noto, a small, family-operated farmstay just outside the city of Noto, and strongly advised it. We invested half a day simply relaxing in the sun under the olive tree outside our bungalow accompanied by the cutest group of kittens, and it could not have been more agreeable.

It’s also roughly 10 minutes from Noto, and under 30 minutes to Vendicari, so the location isn`t being significantly compromised. Plus, free parking is included!

Three other options (that look fantastic) just outside of Noto:

• Baglio Genovesi
• IUTA Glamping & Farm
• Valle Degli Dei AgriResort

If choosing to remain in Noto, stay at either the Ostello della Gioventù – Il Castello, a hostel with private rooms right in the downtown area that we passed on our afternoon stroll, or B&B Novecento Siciliano, a charming bed and breakfast just off of Noto’s main strip.

click here to find the perfect lodging location in the val di Noto

Day 8: Modica & Drive to Agrigento

Travel Time & Distance (Including Modica): 3 hours / 186 km

On this day, which consisted of a big driving day in this itinerary, over the course of the day (and the next drive to Trapani) you’re going to pass through huge areas of the island that are extremely scenic, with vineyards and almond trees covering rolling hills for as far as the eye can see.

However, there simply isn`t enough time to stop and fully experience everything along the route. Therefore, we selected Modica as the perfect place to take a break between drives. We enjoyed a lovely four hours in Modica and recommend the nice city walk (discussed further below) that offers some truly breathtaking views.

The panoramas come at a cost, though. And that payment is a lengthy, in some cases steep ascent straight upwards.

Similar to most areas in eastern Sicily, Modica suffered greatly from the 1693 earthquake (though to a lesser extent than other locations like Noto), and was rebuilt using the Sicilian Baroque style you`ve likely become quite familiar with by now.

Modica essentially combines two municipalities – Modica Bassa (roughly, “lower Modica”) and Modica Alta (roughly “upper Modica”). Modica Alta occupies the top of the hill, and the perspectives from the crest of the elevation are rather impressive.

Reaching the hilltop locations by car presents difficulties, so parking at the base and walking provides a better approach. As recommended, that`s the method to utilize.

Below is a city walk mirroring what we did, including some favorite stops along the way. After spending two to four hours in Modica, depending on walking ability, continue onwards to Agrigento for the night.

Parking in Modica: There is a small lot with complimentary parking here that our vehicle was parked at – during high season, you`ll need to arrive quite early (approximately 8:30 am) to have a chance at securing a space. Otherwise, there are many paid spots along the street near that lot at an affordable cost. Pay using the machine and place the ticket on your windshield.

What to Do in Modica: A Nice City Walk

To start, this digital map outlines the route for this urban expedition, covering all the locations described below. You will gain 166 meters in elevation through the route, spending most of your time on narrow paths and staircases. Take your time exploring and be sure to stay hydrated.”

Here are the stops, in order. You’ll start from the parking lot we mentioned above (or wherever you found parking nearby), and make your way up the hill to Pizzo Belvedere before heading back down and enjoying some cheese, gelato, and chocolate that will have been well-earned.

• Duomo di San Giorgio: This church – designed in the Baroque style, which was prevalent at that time period, was restored in the 18th Century after a series of seismic events, and is now the main church in Modica, with its distinctive dome visible from all over the city. Similar to Noto, I appreciated the paintings depicting the crucifixion of Christ, which are surprisingly lifelike (apparently realistic depictions were common during that era).
• In the town of Modica, Cioccolato di Modica Sabadì makes chocolate using traditional methods: Cooking it slowly over low heat prevents the sugar from dissolving, resulting in a slightly gritty texture admired by some. This shop displays various chocolates, including some flavored kinds, simple chocolate, and blends inspired by different Sicilian cities. We enjoyed learning about their process and lines, and appreciating complimentary samples.
• Pizzo Belvedere: You made it! This is the top of the hill. Admire the views over Modica Bassa from here, and the huge bridge in the distance. We think the view from here is well worth the effort it takes to get there.
• Church of Saint John Evangelist: We fortuitously came upon this gem on our downhill path. It’s beautiful, and marks the highest elevation in Modica Alta (so, technically, our previous statement about being at the top was inaccurate – please excuse this). Inside, it’s not the most ornately decorated, but we like the vista from the downward steps facing the church. At the bottom of the stairs, a small group of elderly men were enjoying coffee and conversing, gesticulating in a manner peculiar to Italians, as they likely discussed either football or politics – difficult to discern which. Meeting there was evidently routine, which I respect.
• Castello dei Conti: Not the most impressive castle but we enjoyed the walk out to the clock tower that can be heard ticking loudly from Pizzo Belvedere which offers better panoramas.
• Bar del Duomo: Situated in an alleyway directly underneath the Duomo di San Giorgio, this is a wonderful spot to pause and enjoy an espresso, granita, or pastry before continuing down the hill.
• Antica Dolceria Bonajuto: Said to be the oldest sweet shop in the city, this will be an enjoyable stop if you, like us, have a passion for chocolate. They also offer tours, though you’ll need to book ahead and they cancel if they don’t have at least six attendees. The friendly woman behind the counter spoke excellent English too, which was helpful as we tried to determine what the items in the display case were.
• Caffè Adamo: Well known for their gelato, Alysha knew she had to sample this establishment upon learning of it. As a gelato enthusiast, she was eager to try it. I declined since I was uncertain how “gluten free” their gelato was. She tasted a ricotta and marjoram gelato, which was extremely creamy and among the best she`s had in Sicily (though, we`ve focused more on granita while here).
• Casa del Formaggio Modica: The gentleman operating the counter at the cheese shop was exceptionally helpful and considerate. We entered on a whim and left having sampled two cheeses and acquired a bottle of local wine, all thanks to his recommendations and insistence we try items before purchasing to ensure our liking. He provided knowledgeable advice for a robust and highly scented cheese option, helping choose wine to accompany. Both selections proved most delightful.

Day 9: Agrigento & Valle dei Templi

You will have arrived in Agrigento the prior evening after a morning spent in Modica, and we suggest investing your first night in the center of Agrigento, which comes alive as the sun descends.

We obtained a beverage at Caffè San Pietro directly in the core of Agrigento, and it was a pleasant place to observe people with spritzes in hand, and a generous bounty of appetizer snacks. There are many places to choose from for dinner in the area, though we heard really good things about Enoteca ‘Nzolia.

The next day, the primary event: visiting the Valley of the Temples (additional details on that shortly).

Where to Stay in Agrigento

This is another place where we`d actually advise staying on the outskirts of town, where you`ll find some highly nice B&Bs with lush gardens and spectacular views.

We stayed at Villa La Lumia B&B, which is just on the outer edge of town, requiring about a 20 minute walk to arrive at the center, and we really enjoyed it. The hosts were extremely welcoming, their furry companion Argo is utterly adorable (we nearly borrowed him, don`t tell anyone though), and breakfast on the terrace with temple perspectives is rather a wonderful way to start your day.

It’s a lovely spot for relaxing, and we can`t recommend it enough. They offer hotel-style rooms as well as apartments complete with a kitchen. Free parking too.

Other suitable lodging possibilities nearby though not within the town are the Villa Lekythosor South Valley Guesthouse.

If you want to be based centrally in Agrigento, consider residing at either the highly rated B&B Triskéles, or Le Terrazze di Pirandello, a low-cost selection with rooming with shared bath facilities available at a slightly reduced price.

find the ideal lodging in agrigento by clicking here

Visiting the Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples)

Over the following 36 hours or so, three examples of ruins of ancient temples and cities built around them will be seen. This one, which is about a 20 minute walk outside of Agrigento, was undoubtedly our favorite, and maybe even our favorite thing we did in Sicily.

We were standing at the entrance to the Temple of Zeus reading the informative signage (in English!), which outlined for us where the walls of the temple would have located.

We both unexpectedly vocalized “whoa” simultaneously because that temple must have been tremendously massive.

Of course, you’ll need to use your creative skills somewhat to imagine it, but the scale and grandeur of some of the constructs in this area is quite mind boggling.

How to Get There

The archaeological site encompasses a large area, and there is an entrance at either end of the park with ample parking (though you’ll have to pay a fee). If you have a vehicle, you can drive to the Valley of the Temples, and parking will require payment.

However, this means that you would need to pass through the valley twice – once on the way to see it all and again on the return journey to your vehicle. The recommended options for travelling through the valley are either walking, which takes approximately 30 minutes in either direction, or taking the bus, which departs from here.

That way, you can conveniently follow a continuous route without retracing your steps. There are two itineraries needed to complete this looped route. You take the 2 bus to get to the eastern entrance, then pick up the 1 bus from the western entrance to return to Agrigento – purchasing tickets directly from the bus.

More information on their website can be found in the “visit” section here.

Ticket Costs

A standard ticket costs 12 Euros per individual. A combo pass including the lush Kolymbethra Garden, a former lake transformed into a valley overflowing with citrus trees, costs 17 Euros (the garden closes earlier than the Valley of the Temples, so you`ll want to experience it first).

A combination ticket including the nearby Archaeology Museum costs 15.50 euros, allowing visits over three days with one admission per location.

Additional facts here.

When to Visit

We strongly believe that the accommodation that should be considered is the one where we resided in Agrigento, which was highly recommended – it`s Villa La Lumia B&B. This opinion is shared by the innkeeper at this location.

You should go in the late afternoon, about an hour and a half before sunset, when the light of the setting sun illuminates the temples in a deep golden glow.

Additionally, the park remains open after dusk, and willing to wait provides a completely different experience with the temples in the dark when illuminated beautifully.

If your schedule doesn`t allow for an afternoon/evening visit, it`s still worth going at other times of day, but it`s that much more spectacular as the sun sets over the sea beyond the temples.

Day 10: Selinunte, Segesta, and Drive to Castellammare del Golfo

Estimated travel time & distance: 2 hours and 40 minutes / 180 km

Another day involves a lengthy drive but with nice stops en route to break it up. In time you`ll reach the charming seaside town of Castellammare del Golfo, a superb base for exploring one of Sicily`s finest nature reserves.

As mentioned previously, this part of Sicily contains numerous historically significant sites. You`ll visit two of them today (combined with yesterday`s visit to the Valley of the Temples), making for quite the insightful 24 hours learning about the history.

One of them – Selinunte – discusses the ancient historical setting and using one`s imagination to envision daily life in Sicily during Greek and Roman times. The other – Segesta – focuses more on its sheer natural beauty, with less emphasis given to historical context.

The itinerary proceeds as: Selinunte, Segesta, then driving to Castellammare del Golfo.

Selinunte

Allow me to tell you, after viewing all three of these archaeological sites, you`ll depart with a heightened appreciation for the ancient people`s proficiency to opt for locations for their cities and temple complexes.

Selinunte sits atop a bluff overlooking the sea, and the views are quite impressive, especially from the portion of the park where the acropolis can be found.

We had learned about both the Valley of the Temples and Segesta prior to arriving in Sicily, but this one we found along our journey, deciding to make a slight detour to include it in our itinerary.

Selinunte houses a fairly expansive archaeological site situated on the location of an ancient Greek city dating back to the 600s BCE. It was one of the most essential coastal regions for the Greeks in Sicily during that period, and they contended with both the Carthaginians and the Elymians, who originated from the north in Segesta and are one of three indigenous peoples of Sicily.

It was a thriving city in what is now known as southwestern Sicily, but that changed when Carthage attacked, razed it, executed many inhabitants, and then reoccupied it in 409 BCE. It was later captured by the Romans during the Punic wars, but by then it was largely uninhabited.

Prices may vary depending on your travel dates and the size of the catamaran, so I recommend checking both availability and costs through SamBoat.

It provides a helpful reminder that this part of the world has experienced a variety of influences, and has been inhabited by different communities of people throughout its history, all of whom have left their mark on it in one way or another (though, it should be noted that some of those marks – specifically those architectural kinds – were erased from the landscape with the earthquake in 1693).

There are two sections of the park, and one can either walk between them (expect about 15-20 minutes each way) or pay a small fee to utilize the golf cart between them.

The first, near the entrance, is a series of temples (though, unlike the Valley of the Temples, historians and archaeologists aren’t quite sure who the temples are dedicated to).

The second part of the park is over on a little bluff, and is where you’ll find the acropolis, additional temples, and remnants of houses from thousands of years ago, which somewhat helps visualize what life may have been like during that time period.

How to Get There: Drive yourself – it’s approximately a 15 minute detour off the route you’d normally be taking. Park freely in the large lot outside the entrance.

Ticket Costs: 6 Euros per person.

Additional information here.

Segesta

To be honest, this was our least preferred of the three temple complexes from the past couple of days along this itinerary. It’s beautiful, yes, but the signage could use some improvement. Mostly because the answers to inquiries like “who constructed this?” and “why does this temple exist?” are essentially the shrug emoji.

There’s a lot of hypotheses, but we don’t really know the specifics, because we only have primary sources from other people’s points of view – namely Greeks – and other than that… shrugs.

The two primary attractions here include the Theater, located high up on the hillside, and the unfinished Doric Temple, which is an easy 250 meter walk from the entrance.

It is worth acknowledging that the theater is situated fairly significantly uphill, which permits magnificent views but also implies a climb is necessary to arrive there.

We’d suggest paying the additional few Euros to utilize public transportation to travel upwards, as the incline is quite strenuous, particularly during the warm summer sunlight. We walked, and hiking is usually enjoyable for us, but at the top we decided it wasn`t really worth the effort.

There are some pleasant perspectives of the Doric Temple from the climb up, which is why we’d also advise that you walk back down rather than taking the shuttle.

There isn`t much to see here, so it should only take around 30-60 minutes to explore the area.

Ticket Costs: 6 Euros per person.

Additional information here.

Where to Stay in Castellammare del Golfo

Unlike some of the other places on this itinerary, you definitely want to stay in the central area of Castellammare del Golfo, rather than outside of town. The narrow streets near the harbor and along the water are very charming, and the areas farther inland aren’t.

We stayed at Veranda sul Porticciolo, a small complex of apartments managed in a friendly way by Guiliano, who showed us our room and gave us some tips about visiting the Zingaro Reserve, along with where to dine in town. We stayed in a studio, which was reasonably sized, but included a full kitchen, access to a washing machine, and a comfortable bed.

The best part was early morning coffee and afternoon glasses of wine out on the deck, which has vistas of the port. Parking would be somewhat problematic in the peak season, when the area is a ZTL and you can`t leave your vehicle here, but that`s accurate of basically any place to remain in the center of town.

A head-covering like the protection from sun model would prove useful for traversing the warm climates found in Utah`s desert landscape. This headwear would come in handy while exploring towns for opportunity or delight like Ogden and Park City, or while ambling through Utah’s national parks, taking in their magnificence.

This hyperlink guides you to suitable lodging possibilities in castellammare del golfo

Day 11: Day Trip to Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro

Travel Time & Distance: 20 Minutes / 12 km (one direction)

On this day, we would particularly, strongly advise taking a day trip to the Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro, which proved to be a high point on our Sicily trip. It is best to explore the reserve – ideally in the early morning to avoid the sweltering summer heat – and then spend the remainder of the afternoon and evening in Castellammare del Golfo, which was our favorite town in this region of Sicily.

The pristine coastal reserve was established in the 1980’s after it was originally planned for development – you walk through the tunnel where the road was meant to go as you enter the reserve from the southern entrance.

However, numerous environmental organizations stepped in to prevent the construction of the road and keep this part of Sicily’s gorgeous coastline natural.

Foreshadowing: they prevailed, and Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro became Sicily’s initial nature preserve, sheltering 4,000 acres of natural splendor on the northern coast.

Getting to the Park

Travel by road is necessary to visit this scenic area (based on our research, no other transportation options proved consistently reliable – please share if you discover alternatives). There are two entrance points – one near Scopello in the south and another near San Vito Lo Capo in the north. Driving is required unless public transportation schedules align for easy trips between these access points.

The southern access point is about 20-25 minutes away from Castellammare del Golfo, and is the one you should aim for. Here it is on Google Maps.

The road to arrive there isn`t great. But it`s possible to navigate even in a rental car. There`s a medium sized parking area that presumably becomes crowded in high season.

Costs and Hours

Payment to access the park is 5 Euros per individual, and they take both physical currency and credit cards. During the summer season, the park is open from 7:30 am until 7:00 pm. In October, which was when we visited (and for the remainder of the lower season until April), the park only remained accessible from 8:00 am until 4:00 pm.

What to Do in Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro

Now, our experience within the park is likely somewhat different than what yours will be, at minimum if you’re coming during the warm summer months.

We visited in mid-October and found ourselves along the shore amidst a thunderstorm, with rain droplets feeling like the size of my head. Not ideal conditions, but still beautifully picturesque in a less `crystal clear turquoise water` way and more of a `those crashing waves on the cliff are rather frightening` manner.

Begin at the southern entrance and travel north into the nature reserve. Multiple trails are available, but those seeking stunning coastal views and beaches should follow the coastal route, which is also the easiest path. A map provided at the entrance identifies all the `calas` accessible along the trail.

If anticipating wide sandy beaches where able to lay out in the sun, think again. It is more rough and untamed than anticipated, though that has never prevented Italians from getting their sunbathing as far as ever seen.

If you’ve ever visited the western coast of the United States, which is where we came from, the beaches there are more akin to those in Washington State – wild and rocky – than Southern California – developed and sandy.

The hike from the southern entrance through to the northern entrance covers about 7km, so a round trip of 14km. It should take between four to six hours, depending on how many stops you make along the way. Here is a map of the reserve.

If you visit between June and September, the weather will likely be noticeably different. One aspect we observed on this route – primarily due to getting soaked – is that there is little protection from the sun (or rain in our case).

Things to Know Before You Go

Here are a few things worth noting before your trip to help in preparation.

• You need to bring plenty of water (at least one liter per person, if not more), sunscreen, and a hat. It’s going to be hot, and there’s not a whole lot of shade.
• There is no drinking water inside the park, and the sole place to buy food or water is the little snack shack in the parking lot. Be sure to have enough snacks and water before setting out on the hike.
• Begin early. Both because the parking lot is small, and to prevent hiking during the heat of the day.
• Wear footwear fully enclosing the feet! While the hike isn`t necessarily difficult, with some ups and downs while traversing the coastline, parts involve rocky terrain. Casual sandals should be left at home. Attire appropriate for the activity will be checked at the entrance, though it`s uncertain if lack thereof would truly result in being denied access or just mild amusement.
• The closer you go to the center of the reserve, the fewer people you’ll find. Solely because it’s a longer walk from either entrance, and, well, people don’t like walking that much.

Days 12 – 14: Exploring Palermo

Allow me to offer a glimpse behind the scenes of our process when we`re on the road. Generally, we try to write these guides in the days immediately following an experience, while it remains fresh, taking detailed notes if unable to write in that timeframe.

We are creating this guide as we make our way through Sicily, which means things change as we discover new places and gain a new perspective on certain things.

Originally, we had intended to spend less time in Palermo and more along the coast in Western Sicily – specifically Trapani. However, after our time in Palermo, we decided “you know what, spending extra time in Palermo is always worthwhile!”

That led us to allocating two to three days in Palermo, a period that is barely adequate to experience everything there is to see, eat, and do in the city.

What to Do in Palermo

With a couple days in Palermo, we strongly advise focusing activities within city limits rather than outside to places like Monreale or Cefalu.

Here are some of our favorite things to do (and eat) in Palermo.

• Exploring Palermo`s Famous Open-Air Markets: There are three primary markets in Palermo, each deserving of a visit for distinct reasons. Attending in the morning is best, when they are most lively (with the notable exception of Mercato Vucciria, which is decidedly a nighttime venture). Capo offers a sensory overload, with vendors selling fresh produce, seafood, ready-to-eat fried delicacies, and much more. Mercato Ballaró, south of the historic center, feels authentic, with a hint of grittiness indicating real people shop there for daily needs. Mercato Vucciria is a collection of narrow streets inadvertently discovered after dark, when the area transforms into a scattering of small food stalls and cozy bars with plenty of open-air seating.
• Sample Traditional Street Food in Palermo: Palermo is renowned globally for its amazing street cuisine. You can easily have a hearty and authentic meal for about five Euros. Some of our favorite Palermitan street dishes included Crocchè, herbaceous deep fried mashed potatoes, and arancine (interestingly, the singular form in Palermo is “arancina”, unlike “arancino” in Catania), essentially fried rice balls stuffed with various fillings ranging from vegetables to meats and cheeses. Or sfincione. Or panelle. The list continues endlessly. The best way to experience it, we feel, is with a local guide. This is the excursion we intended to book – even though I possess Celiac Disease and couldn`t eat anything, I was excited to learn all about Palermitan culture – but the timing didn`t work out in the end and we didn`t get the opportunity to do it. Reserve the morning tour, and show up hungry!
• Gain Insight Into Palermo’s History Connected With Organized Crime: Having never witnessed the celebrated films The Godfather or The Sopranos, two of popular culture’s most renowned depictions of organized crime, I was actually not very familiar with the Sicilian stereotypes surrounding organized crime. However, as Alysha explained – whose grandfather was born in the small town of Melilli in southeast Sicily – generally the first thought when saying “Sicily” is “organized crime.” Similar to Pablo Escobar in Medellin, Colombia, there exists significant interest in learning about organized crime, which has created a minor boom in tours focusing on sites and famous places tied to them. It is essential to remember that behind organized crime in Sicily lies a genuine trail of bloodshed. Real people died and suffered as a direct result of organized crime`s actions. Which is why, if interested in learning about organized crime, it should be done responsibly through tours with Addiopizzo, an organization that set out to rid Sicily of the “pizzo”, or the protection money that businesses paid to organized crime for decades. This is the tour we did, and it was great – we highly recommend it.
• Consume wine from Sicily: Wherever we drove in Sicily, vineyards seemed abundant. This really can only signify one thing. reasonably priced, delicious wine! Two of our favorite discoveries regarding Palermo’s wine scene were CiCala, which is ideal for natural wines from Sicily, and Bottega Monteleone, an excellent place for a wine-focused appetizer (Alysha truly enjoyed the crostini with a spread made from sardines and herbs).

Where to Stay in Palermo

We went back and forth several times when deciding where to stay in Palermo, which means we have three recommendations for you that we had booked at one point or another.

Generally, we’d advise remaining either in the realm between Teatro Massimo and the Palermo Cathedral, or in Politeama – Libertà, which offers a little more elegance and polish.

First involves walking along the shore of the lake, especially on the left side of the lake (if approaching from the parking area). There is a loop all around to the other side of the lake, and the views from the far side looking back towards Emerald Lake Lodge are stunning.

The apartments are quite spacious, offering complete kitchens with ovens and washing machines, and located in an excellent area. Ideal if more room is desired to spread out comfortably.

Before booking that apartment, we had a couple of nights booked at two separate B&Bs.

The initial selection was La Terrazza Sul Centro, situated just a handful of blocks off of Via Vittorio Emanuele in a superb location. The rooftop terrace boasts breathtaking vistas of Palermo, and the rooms are compact yet entirely comfortable for a few nights.

Another lodging selection we had made was the Family Affair B&B Palermo, advantageously positioned at the heart of the Politeama – Libertà region. Rooms provide a stylish, comfortable, and surprisingly affordable stay, earning overwhelmingly positive reviews.

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What to Do with More Time in Sicily

Do you have extra time or are considering alternate plans? Here are some activities we wished to partake in, but decided we didn’t have sufficient time to incorporate into our three weeks on the island.

Obviously, it goes without saying that this is completely not an exhaustive list of everything to do on the island (that isn’t in the itinerary above), but it is our wishlist for our next trip to Sicily.

Spend a Night in Trapani to Visit Erice & San Vito Lo Capo: We’ll be honest, we weren’t overwhelmed by Trapani or Erice, which is why you won’t find it in the main itinerary above. Erice presents beautiful scenery, sure, with its hilltop town gazing down over Trapani to the west and Castellammare del Golfo to the east. But it’s pretty busy with tourists, and merits only a few hours of your time. We skipped San Vito Lo Capo, a beautiful beach town at the northwestern tip of Sicily, because the weather was terrible, and it didn’t seem like we’d be getting the best of the town in mid-October. An overnight stay in Trapani should provide ample opportunity to do a day trip to Erice in the morning, and then invest the afternoon out in San Vito Lo Capo.

Day Trip to Cefalu from Palermo: Cefalu is an easy day trip from Palermo, however given 14 days, we’d opt to spend the two and a half days you have near Palermo in the city itself. With an extra day, take the train out to the beach, hike up to La Rocca for exquisite views, and get a spritz and appetizer overlooking the beach.

Explore the Islands Off of Trapani: Spend a few days on Favignana, or one of the other islands in the Egadi chain just off the coast near Trapani. You can do it as a day trip, but it`s better as an overnight. Here’s a guide to Favignana that was enjoyed.

the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli : At the very top of our list for a return visit to Sicily would be the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli off the northeastern coast of the island. Stromboli, similar to Mount Etna, is an lively volcano. Except instead of being on the island of Sicily, it lies in the core of the ocean. The surrounding string of islands are full of attractive sandy beaches, and more solitude than you’ll find just about anywhere else in Italy. Here`s a travel manual to refer to for inspiration, if you choose this route.

When to Visit Sicily

We have a unique perspective on this topic since we spent three weeks in Sicily starting in early October.

Every single travel guide, blog, and post we’ve read about Sicily says something along the lines of “summer is great but it’s too hot and too crowded, so come in shoulder season like September or October instead!” Which holds some truth. But that description is missing an important piece of information that we think you should know before deciding when to visit Sicily.

In October, an occurrence almost certainly impacts your trip. Small company owners take breaks. Sometimes it lasts a week, sometimes two, occasionally a full month. Approximately 30-40 percent of places we tried to visit – mostly bars and restaurants – were on holiday in the first fortnight of October. Some close entirely until the following spring!

Locals we met along the way cautioned us about this phenomenon, and multiple times during our visit someone stated “we enjoy X restaurant, but it’s closed now.”

It is worth noting that this phenomenon largely impacted the smaller towns in Sicily, rather than cities like Catania and Palermo.

All primary attractions should be open as usual (based on our experience). But if specific dining and drinking spots were picked out, there`s a chance they may close in October. Not necessarily a reason to skip an October visit, but something to bear in mind when deciding.

In fact, we would propose October, which was when we visited Sicily. Sure, the weather includes a bit more rain and thunderstorms (not as many as your weather app might indicate, though, don’t trust any weather app – I’m convinced they’re all aiming to set expectations low so you`re pleased when it’s 75 and sunny), but it’s also relatively tranquil and calm, and we basically had most of the locations we went to ourselves, or shared them with a small group. Additionally, parking was simple everywhere we went – we only paid for parking in a city ONCE.

September provides better prospects if you wish to dine out, experience nightlife, and similar activities. It offers a nice balance between summer’s weather (but marginally more comfortable), and lighter crowds.

Summer – from June through August – is extremely hot, which makes hiking around the Valley of the Temples or in the Zingaro Nature Preserve much less pleasant. Crowds are also higher which means a corresponding increase in costs.

However, there is justification for Sicily`s summer popularity – it is scenic, the climate is perfect (albeit warm), and an animated atmosphere emerges with thousands visiting the island. This does imply longer lines, more circling for parking, and pricier lodging and vehicle rentals.

Late fall, winter, and early spring will likely be very quiet. Various sites may be closed, the weather may not be ideal (though still better than northern Italy for certain), and generally it may not be the optimal time for a Sicily experience full of sunshine, amazing views, and beautiful sandy beaches.

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