In early 2020, after years of planning and saving resources, we ended our employment to travel the world. And our first destination was Colombia. We spent six weeks experiencing as much of the country as we could. From the huge urban metropolis of Bogota, to Cartagena, Colombiaβs Caribbean gem, and numerous amazing places in between.
This guide to spending 2 weeks in Colombia puts together all the best parts of our experience into a Colombia itinerary that will help you experience Colombia without feeling too rushed and needing a vacation from your vacation.
Colombia is truly an amazing nation. Itβs extremely diverse. Both in regards to its various peoples and cultures, with all sorts of unique influences across its different regions, and in relation to its landscapes. In Colombia, youβll find the Amazon Rainforest, the Andes Mountains, Caribbean beaches, thick jungles, and many more biomes. All within a single country.
We cherished Colombia, and believe you will too. This guide will offer you the information necessary to plan a perfect 2 week Colombia itinerary. Youβll find mini travel guides to our favorite places, with the important particulars like how to get there, where to remain, and where to locate the best coffee (duh). And, if you happen to have over 2 weeks (lucky you!), some proposals on what to add to your trip.
Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post, like hotel links, are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we make a little bit of money if you click through and book. That being said, we would never recommend something to you that we donβt stand behind 100%.
Table of Contents
Important Tips for Visiting Colombia
Our primary recommendation for your itinerary with only two weeks is to fly between destinations to make the most of your limited time.
Travel by bus through Colombia`s major cities can take quite some time as it is a very large country with mountainous terrain and winding roads. While buses provide convenient transportation for extended trips, the geography makes journeys lengthy.
Instead of investing a couple of your days on a bus, opt to fly. We recommend Avianca, which is what we used on some of the longer journeys, and found it to be a great experience all around, and surprisingly affordable.
Be wary of Colombiaβs budget airline β Viva Air β which is cheaper, but far less reliable. The line at the airport to check in was several miles long, I believe.
Below are a selection of random things I documented while we were in Colombia that were notable, at minimum to us.
You need to have the ability to speak Spanish, at least a little bit. If you donβt, be sure to download Spanish on Google Translate β hereβs a guide to downloading languages for offline use.
Doing laundry in hostels was surprisingly difficult to find.
Buses function relatively well for getting from city to city, but expect to depart when the bus is full (rather than βon timeβ) and take 50% more time on the road due to seemingly endless construction projects along every main road in Colombia.
If taking long bus trips, purchase tickets for popular sections like Salento to MedellΓn in advance. The night before or earlier on the day of the journey would be ideal. Multiple people were seen having to wait several hours for the next bus because they arrived right at departure time when the bus was full. However, buses were also seen departing with people boarding as it left the station, so there is some unpredictability. But with only two weeks in Colombia, the last thing needed is being stuck waiting four hours at a bus station instead of exploring. So caution is preferable in this case.
Download offline Google Maps of all visiting places before the trip to get directions and look things up without WiFi or data use.”
Donβt flush paper towels down the toilet in Colombia β they go in the receptacle beside it.
How Many Days Should You Spend in Colombia?
Look, Colombia is a huge, diverse country.
Over the course of six weeks, there were still numerous, many times where we stated βI suppose weβll need to return for that.β Granted, we undoubtedly may have moved quicker, yet still.
With two weeks, youβve got a solid period of time to see the main cities of Colombia β BogotΓ‘, MedellΓn, and Cartagena β with a chance to see one or two smaller towns.
What you won`t have is significant free time to explore off the beaten path.
If you have three weeks, youβll have a bit more time to get off the beaten path and explore some of our favorite spots that are harder to get to, like JardΓn (miss you, JardΓn!).
The Lost City Trek
A TON of people come to Colombia to embark on the multi day trek to Ciudad Perdida β βthe Lost City.β We didnβt, although we somewhat wish we had. Itβs up north near the Caribbean Coast deep in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, accessed through Santa Marta.
The reason for bringing this up is that it necessitates no less than five days simply to get there and back again. Which signifies a huge portion of your time will be consumed.
If undertaking the trek is desired, know that the tradeoff will be spending less time in other locations in Colombia. Only two other cities can probably be visited β likely Cartagena and MedellΓn β and BogotΓ‘ and Salento will likely have to be skipped entirely.
Salento necessitates a full day roundtrip, so you`ll definitely need to skip the endless rolling green hills and coffee plantations that render Salento unique.
You have to do the hike to the Lost City with a guide β here is a highly rated guided excursion that Iβd advocate.
2 Weeks in Colombia: A Perfect Colombia Itinerary for First Timers
With all that out of the way, letβs get into our specific recommendations for your itinerary.
Hereβs an overview of the route youβll take:
- Day 1: Fly into BogotΓ‘
- Day 2: BogotΓ‘
- Day 3: Travel Day! BogotΓ‘ to Salento
- Day 4: Salento
- Day 5: Salento
- Day 6: Salento
- Day 7: Travel Day! Salento to MedellΓn
- Day 8: MedellΓn
- Day 9: MedellΓn
- Day 10: MedellΓn
- Day 11: Fly from MedellΓn to Cartagena
- Day 12: Cartagena
- Day 13: Cartagena
- Day 14: Cartagena and Fly Home
Youβll note a couple built-in travel days. As recommended above, I think flying the longer routes saves time. Sure, you could spend valuable time during your two weeks in Colombia on a bus. However, you could also spend some extra money, fly instead, and utilize that time exploring more!
BogotΓ‘ β Days 1 & 2
BogotΓ‘ is… a large city, with almost 11 million people. Itβs the capital of Colombia, which makes it the perfect place to begin your trip to Colombia, but itβs not the most interesting or vibrant city weβve ever been to.
Despite its immense size, the city has plenty of hidden gems and exciting activities to partake in, serving as a perfect introduction to Colombia for your journey.
I would express that BogotΓ‘ surpassed our expectations, though that was mainly because individuals who had gone to see told us that it was dull. But, to us, a city full of locals continuing on with their everyday lives is fairly fascinating, and a pleasant contrast from the carefully arranged streets of Cartagena or the tourist-filled streets of El Poblado in MedellΓn.
The first thing youβll likely notice about BogotΓ‘ is the nearby mountains – true, BogotΓ‘ rests at a lofty 8,700 feet above sea level in the Andes! Therefore, take it easy during initial days, hydrate often, and allow your body time to adapt.
Update 2021: We have a full guide on planning the perfect itinerary for BogotΓ‘! It contains all the details needed to plan an ideal trip to BogotΓ‘.
The second thing youβll notice is probably the vehicle traffic.
We landed in BogotΓ‘ on what was basically a βspare the airβ day, where the streets were closed to all passenger vehicles, and only taxis and buses were out on the road.
We were surprised by the lack of people until the next day, when it took an hour to travel downtown from our place in Chapinero. It will require time to cross the city, so be sure to plan clusters of activities so you donβt have to make the trip back on a different day.
Iβm assuming youβll land early on your first day, and will spend the second day actually out and about in BogotΓ‘.
Here is a helpful resource about safety in BogotΓ‘. According to the article, using ridesharing apps like Uber and Beat instead of flagging down a taxi at night is advised.
Arrival in BogotΓ‘
Youβll arrive at El Dorado International Airport, the third busiest airport in Latin America. The airport is barely in the city of BogotΓ‘, which spreads out endlessly (as youβll see from the top of Monserrate, if you make it up there).
It`s best to take a taxi into the accommodations in the city upon arrival at BogotΓ‘`s airport. Trust me, navigating the metro from the airport to Chapinero, the ideal area to stay, is confusing and the last thing you want to deal with.
To obtain a taxi, head to the kiosk inside the airport, where youβll prepay, then go out to the stand. Be sure to have your accommodationβs address pulled up to show the kiosk and the driver.
Where to Stay in BogotΓ‘
The most highly recommended place to reside in BogotΓ‘ without question in our opinion is Chapinero. Specifically, if you can manage it, Quinto Camacho, which is an area packed with restaurants, bars, coffee shops, and more.
We stayed four nights at Aurora Hostel, which is one of the βboutique hostelsβ in Colombia that we grew fond of, blending the amenities of a boutique hotel (like private rooms and luggage storage) with the sociable aspects of a hostel, like breakfast included. Highly, highly recommend!
Update 2022: Regrettably, it appears Aurora may have closed in the past couple of years. If you`re seeking hostel accommodations, consider the RepΓΊblica Hostel, situated nearby. If a gorgeous boutique hotel captures your interest, inspect Casa Legado.
What to Do and See in BogotΓ‘
Youβll only have approximately a day and a half, so thereβs definitely a limit on how much ground youβll be able to cover in BogotΓ‘. Here are some suggestions for how to spend that time recovering from your jet lag.
Ascend Monserrate: What`s one of the best strategies to adjust to a new time zone? Physical activity! Hiking up to the summit of Monserrate, which overlooks the city of BogotΓ‘, is definitely a good option. You could pay to take the aerial transport up to the top, costing approximately $7 USD, though it`s more crowded on weekends. Making the climb under your own power is cheaper and less busy. The perspectives from the summit are truly spectacular and worthwhile, and after visiting the church, there are also some vendors where you can enjoy a snack while admiring the views.
Engage in a Walking Tour with Beyond Colombia: Our excursion with Beyond Colombia was among the highlights of our time spent in Colombia. We participated in the War and Peace route, offering perspective on Colombiaβs sometimes tumultuous history to establish helpful context for the remainder of our travels within Colombia. These free walking tours request gratuity for the guiding professional.
π LOCAL ADVICE: After spending the day on the water, I would highly recommend visiting Robert Is Here in Homestead. This unique shop provides access to unusual tropical fruits, homemade jams, sauces, and some of the best milkshakes you`ll ever enjoy.
SAMPLE THE VARIETY OF FRUITS: This tour of Paloquemao Market is something we still discuss when we happen to be eating fruit. Truthfully, itβs amazing. Youβll join a guide, who knows what to try, how to eat it, and who has developed relationships with the vendors at the market from getting to know them. We went with Sylvia, a college student, and she was excellent.
The Sunday Marketplace in Usaquen: Part of the reason one should stay in Chapinero is that itβs roughly equidistant between the downtown core and Usaquen, which was our favorite section of the city. And the market on Sundays must not be missed. The cobbled streets of Usaquen, which used to be a separate city but has since been enveloped as BogotΓ‘ expanded, are filled with stands selling everything from handmade jewelry to pepper sauces, and just about everything in between. Itβs a fun experience, and you shouldnβt neglect coffee at Colo Coffeeβs garden while youβre in the area.
Where to Eat & Drink in BogotΓ‘
Quinua y Amaranto β they offer one set menu daily, and itβs vegetarian, affordable, and delicious. Itβs in La Candelaria, and makes a perfect lunch on the day you head down there to do the walking tour / Museo de Oro.
Abasto: An amazing brunch/lunch spot recommended to us by a local acquaintance in BogotΓ‘ with locations in both Chapinero and Usaquen. Get the plantain leaf wrapped fish and the agua de Abasto.
Insurgentes Taco Bar: I mean, you know we enjoy tacos and mezcal following our numerous extended journeys to Mexico City.
Orso HeladerΓa: Leave it to Alysha to find the ice cream. This location was in Chapinero near our hostel, which signifies you recognize we had to stop by. Theyβre also in Usaquen and Parque 93, if you find yourself nearby.
Where to Find the Best Coffee in BogotΓ‘
BogotΓ‘ has an incredible coffee scene.
We explored all over BogotΓ‘ in search of the best coffee β here is what we found.
Colo Coffee: This location, particularly their Usaquen venue, stood out for its outdoor patio area designed like a jungle oasis – an exceedingly pleasant place to spend time. The coffee is also remarkable, with an onsite cupping laboratory!
A link is provided to Azahar, which is described as being the pioneering business in BogotΓ‘, if not all of Colombia, in specialty coffee. Visitors are encouraged to stop by their cafe near Parque 93 or in La Candelaria to understand how the company first recognized consumers` desire to experience the high-quality coffee grown in their native country.
CafΓ© Cultor: We met one of Alyshaβs acquaintances at CafΓ© Cultor in BogotΓ‘, and I was pleasantly surprised by just about every facet of the experience. The coffee was great, the space was filled with natural light, and the location β roughly three blocks from our hostel in Chapinero- couldnβt have been better.
Days 3-6: Salento
We LOVED Salento. It has everything we look for β amazing outdoor activities, including the incredible hike in the Cocora Valley, and great coffee. checks list yep thatβs about all thatβs on our βeverything we appreciateβ list.
We spent a full seven days in Salento, and while it was about three days too long for most people, we were happy almost every second of it. Itβs well worth a stop on your trip because it gives you a different side of Colombia than youβll be experiencing in the other cities on your itinerary. Itβs much slower, less busy, and peaceful than, say, BogotΓ‘.
Plus, you get to ride in a Willy! Which is essentially, at least from what I understand, an open-air jeep with bench seating in the rear, and is the primary mode of transportation in this part of the world. If you havenβt traveled on the back of a Willy, holding on as the driver corners sharply, have you truly lived?
Getting to Salento
Getting to Salento in this guide is quite complex. You`ll need multiple modes of transportation, flying first to Pereira, then taking a taxi to the bus station, and hopping on a bus from there to Salento. The entire process took most of a day.
However, after the occurrence I learned that it might be less complicated to do the same by flying into Armenia, which has more frequent buses up to Salento.
Either way, itβs going to take a bit.Β
Hereβs a guide to reaching Salento.
As mentioned previously, it is definitely advisable to choose Avianca over Colombia`s budget airline Viva Air for flying.
Where to Stay in Salento
We spent a full seven nights at Hostel Tralala and felt at ease. They have several private room options β both with private bathrooms and without β along with a dorm and a nice kitchen. Itβs a short distance off of the main square, and is reasonably priced. Something that stood out to us was how helpful the staff members were, working to communicate with our imperfect Spanish to provide directions to local coffee farms, for instance.
If not into the idea of a hostel, there are plenty of excellent hotels in Salento. Here are two highly rated options that caught my eye.
Hotel Terasu appears highly appealing, with light-filled accommodations including modern amenities, some with balconies boasting spectacular views, and a breakfast routinely receiving praise in reviews.
Kawa Mountain Retreat would be another of my recommendations. Itβs an eco-friendly accommodation with spacious rooms (again, some have balconies containing hammocks and views of the mountains) and itβs just a brief walk to the center of Salento.
What to Do and See in Salento
Youβll have three days and four nights in Salento, which provides adequate time to check off most items on the list.
The Cocora Valley
The Cocora Valley, both attracting visitors to Salento and struggling with environmental impacts, features wax palm trees unlike witnessed elsewhere, made more striking set against background mountains.
We highly recommend completing the extended route β bring ample water and snacks, we spent most of the morning on it.
Most visitors heading straight for the mirador upon arrival, located to the left (or truly, the main road up front) when disembarking transport, but veering right past the small gate is recommended to begin the looped route. A bridge will be crossed, then a $2,000 COP fee paid per individual to enter the area.
The trail meanders through open fields alongside the cattle accountable for the demise of the wax palms (they consume ground vegetation, disrupting the entire ecosystem supporting the wax palms) and through the forest, crossing several bridges strongly reminiscent of those in Indiana Jones films.
Eventually, youβll reach a junction β straight takes you to the hummingbird sanctuary, which is worth a detour but is definitely an ascent, and left takes you up the steep path to a viewpoint over the valley, where youβll begin the descent to the famous viewpoint from above.
To reach the starting point for the hike, you`ll take a mode of transport called a Willy from the town square in Salento.
An early start is suggested – tickets often sell out fast, and voices of delayed departure were frequently heard waiting hours to begin. We caught the first round of transport of the day and faced no problems. Tickets for the vehicles are sold at a stand on the northwest side of Plaza de BolΓvar.
Tour a Coffee Farm
When we were planning our trip, we knew we wanted to explore Salento for two reasons. The Cocora Valley, because we enjoy hiking. And coffee, because Iβm a coffee connoisseur, at least according to Alysha, who doesnβt drink coffee at all.
In Salento, you have ample choices when it comes to coffee farms, and they make a pleasant half-day trip.
Walk out of town across the bridge on the west side of Salento on Carrera 5, heading southwest along Salento-Vda. Palestina, a dirt road winding down into the valley housing some of the best coffee farms in Salento β Las Acacias, offering a smaller, more intimate experience, and Finca el Ocaso, operating on a much larger commercial scale.
Itβs interesting to see the contrast between them, and experiencing both is recommended.
Las Acacias tours depart when adequate passengers are ready, lasting approximately one hour, and Finca El Ocaso`s basic 90-minute tour (COP 25,000) leaves at 10am, 12pm, 2pm, and 4pm. After completing the experiences, catch a Willy back into town from Finca El Ocaso since the uphill, dusty walk is less than pleasant, from personal experience.
Finca el Ocaso also offers a βpremiumβ tour, which is a smaller group and includes a cupping of different coffees at the end. I did it and appreciated it, but itβs probably best for people who are truly into coffee since it costs $70,000 COP and isnβt much different from the other tour, save for the cupping.
Walk up to the Mirador
At the end of Calle Real, the main street running east/west in Salento, youβll find a set of stairs. At the top of those stairs is a nice viewpoint with views over the small town and a very βpost-worthyβ Salento sign.
Play Tejo!
Tejo involves throwing a small metal disc at a target, which contains gunpowder and explodes upon a direct hit. Although potentially dangerous, it is likely less hazardous than one might think.
Regardless of how you choose to experience it, visiting a cancha de tejo venue like Los Amigos in Salento is something worth doing at least once during a trip to Colombia.
Ride a Horse to a Waterfall
Each solitary dawn in Salento, we roused to the tone of βclop clop clopβ as gentlemen, who were consistently adorned in a cool hat resembling a fedora that I CERTAINLY couldnβt sport, led their mounts to the starting point for a busy day.
One way to utilize the horses? Ride to Santa Rita waterfall.
You can also experience this on foot, but the directions we obtained were less than crystal clear and involve crossing privately held land and paying an admission charge. I`d hire a guide, which your hotel/hostel can assist in arranging.
Days 7-10: MedellΓn
MedellΓn was our most preferred city during our six week trip across Colombia, and we ended up spending a full ten days there over the course of our journey. Itβs a scenic location set in a lush valley surrounded by towering mountains, and the evolving story of the growing city is thought-provoking.
You might be familiar with it because of the TV show Narcos and its infamous past – it was considered the most hazardous city globally in the late 80`s and early 90`s – but the transformation it has experienced since is impressive.
Major investments in public infrastructure, including a metro system that surpasses most US public transportation networks in terms of efficiency and cleanliness, have brought more chances to more people in MedellΓn, which has in turn helped to create a safer, innovative, and more vibrant city over the past two decades.
In my view, we Americans have much to learn from cities such as MedellΓn, where consciously investing in underserved communities by connecting residents to opportunities through an efficient metro system and extremely innovative cable cars (read: gondolas) as well as establishing community centers, schools, and libraries in those neighborhoods was an election made.
As we were on a walking tour learning about it, I turned to Alysha and remarked that I could hardly imagine a reality where most Americans were comfortable putting money into schools and other institutions in underserved communities, unless they lived there.
Which is pretty unfortunate, when you really pause to think about it.
How to Get to MedellΓn
Firstly, DO NOT TAKE UBER transportation in MedellΓn. At the time of our visit, it was illegal, and police along the road to and from the airport would pull over and ticket Uber drivers.
For efficiently traveling from Salento to MedellΓn, the best approach is taking a bus to Armenia (or Pereira, though buses depart more frequently for Armenia from Salento) and then catching a short flight. The bus ride takes 20-30 minutes, and the flight lasts under an hour.
You could travel between the cities using public transportation, which departs from Salentoβs small bus terminal on the northwest edge of town, but it would take at least 6-7 hours, if not longer. The flight would cost about $40-50 per person, but it would save you several hours of time that you can invest exploring instead of sitting on a bus.
There exist two airports in MedellΓn, but the one traveled upon acceptance of our guidance flying Avianca would be JosΓ© MarΓa CΓ³rdova International Airport (MDE). And it is quite distant. Situated 21 miles outside the city, the journey within likely requires 30 to 45 minutes.
Upon arrival in MedellΓn, the most convenient option to reach your lodging is by taking a sanctioned white taxi. Rates for these taxis are fixed, costing COP $80,000.
You could also take a shared bus known as a collectivo which travelers split the cost, and this will take you to the San Diego Mall in MedellΓn. The approximate cost is ~$19,000 COP per traveler. From there, youβll need to get a taxi for the brief ride to El Poblado, which is where we recommend you base yourself in MedellΓn.
Once you factor in the additional taxi ride youβll need, the difference in cost between a collectivo and a direct taxi is going to be about $10 USD, assuming you have two people (the difference is even smaller if you have more than two people).
Where to Stay in MedellΓn
We found ourselves in MedellΓn twice, and decided to reside in two differing neighborhoods β El Poblado and Laureles β to obtain a sensation of which one we preferred. It ends up, itβs not as basic as one is superior to the other. There are trade-offs. The two are sufficiently safe, so thatβs not even a part of the equation here.
El Poblado is filled with more non-locals and digital nomads than Colombians, or at minimum thatβs how it felt at times. It has been the upscale part of the city for decades. Still, itβs supremely conveniently located, with a dazzling variety of restaurants and bars lining the streets, and a metro stop within walking distance. While you might dislike feeling like a tourist by staying here, itβs a really pleasant and convenient place to stay.
Laureles is a much more pleasurable and unwinding place to lodge, with numerous bars, eateries, shops, and further inside easy reach on foot. But itβs not very well connected to other regions of the city by means of the subway, no less in the part of the community we lodged in (Estadio was the closest metro stop).
El Poblado is a slightly more suitable location to base yourself in, and it offers a much better selection of accommodation options β hostels, Airbnb, and hotels. For that reason, El Poblado is our top recommendation, but itβs close.
A solo female traveler can never take too many safety precautions. The personal alarm device is an amazing gift to prevent strangers from entering the room when alone or sleeping. It emits a 120 dB alarm loud enough to warn in case someone is trying to come into your room.
What to Do and See in MedellΓn
Like I said above, we loved MedellΓn. Thereβs a great variety of things to do and see, and plenty of ways to learn about the history of the city to give you solid historical context for the city youβre enjoying today.
I strongly recommend that you avoid doing a βPablo Escobarβ tour, which romanticizes the brutality that plagued MedellΓn just a few decades ago.
Instead, engage in this guided tour of Communa 13 with Sebastian, a local individual who skillfully interweaves a compelling account focusing on the post-Pablo era and the innovation and investment in the community that has transformed the city. We thoroughly enjoyed it, and wholeheartedly recommend the experience.
From Violence to Innovation (Communa 13 Tour)
As mentioned above β youβll want to see Communa 13 and its mesmerizing street artwork (which is truly some of the finest Iβve ever viewed).
I would do this tour, which we took and I mentioned earlier, which doesnβt simply show you the murals and say βLook, some graffiti!β Instead, Sebastian educates you about MedellΓnβs history, and how it transitioned from one of the most dangerous cities worldwide to one of the most innovative and forward-thinking over the past 10-20 years.
Itβll take a full afternoon, but youβll start downtown, walk to most of the important sights in that area, then take the metro and cable cars to get to Communa 13, learning about how it all came together along the way.
Take a Cooking Class at a Social Project
When my mom informed me of my travel plans to Colombia, she mentioned that one of her acquaintances suggested connecting with an individual who conducts a culinary experience in MedellΓn in which the earnings assist a social initiative he is spearheading. True to my character, I failed to reach out to him.
But we scheduled a cooking session in MedellΓn (as we often do), and around fifteen minutes into it as Brian, the chef and owner, was clarifying his entire process, I made the connections.
Brian is an excellent chef who runs community programs teaching locals to utilize Colombia`s abundant, amazing foods to create healthier meals influenced by various cuisines, among other things. He also teaches cooking classes for tourists where more about MedellΓn and Colombian cuisine is learned than from all the above tours combined.
While Brian does not have a Colombian background, he has gained impressive awareness of the issues and current developments in the city.
We thoroughly enjoyed the class we participated in with him, and would strongly advocate for it as a worthwhile option both for individuals seeking to learn how to prepare Colombian cuisine, and for people interested in learning more about MedellΓn. We happened to meet both criteria.
Catch a Soccer Game
Iβm a huge soccer (futbol) fan, and when I found out that there was a game when we were in town between the two MedellΓn clubs, I was ECSTATIC.
Watching a soccer match in South America has been a long-term goal of mine, and it did not disappoint.
We opted to go with Mateo on this Airbnb Experience, which incorporated transportation to and from the stadium from El Poblado, a beverage outside the stadium, superb seats, and his encyclopedic comprehension of the club he advocates β AtlΓ©tico Nacional.
The atmosphere at the stadium was rambunctious β with percussion sounds resonating throughout the entire match. Youβll even get an opportunity to snap photos on the field during halftime if desired, which was incredibly cool. Highly recommended for soccer enthusiasts β even Alysha was entertained.
Taste all the Fruit
If you missed the one in BogotΓ‘, this guided tour is another excellent opportunity to learn about Colombia`s amazing diversity of fruits. And, of course, taste them.
Real City Tours
Stay at Illecillewaet Campground, if possible, which is also the trailhead for most of the prime hikes in the park.
We actually skipped it as I wasn`t feeling well the morning we were scheduled to do it, but we`d still recommend it based on feedback heard from both local staff like at hostels as well as other travelers we spoke to.
It provides a decent overview, but does not delve as deeply into MedellΓn`s history as some of the other previously mentioned options.
Where to Eat & Drink in MedellΓn
Firstly, when you`re in MedellΓn you must eat a Bandeja Paisa, which is the unofficial national dish of Colombia and originated here in MedellΓn.
βBandejaβ translates to βtrayβ or βplatter,β and βPaisaβ refers to someone from this mountainous region of Colombia.
Put them together, and youβll get an assortment of all sorts of diverse flavors and textures, including but not limited to egg, avocado, chicharron, patacones, rice, and … Iβm probably missing about seventeen other things that come on this incredible dish.
The best location to get that would be Mondongos, which conveniently has sites in both El Poblado and Laureles, although youβll find it all through the city, and also in other parts of the country like Salento and BogotΓ‘.
You should also make sure to visit the El Poblado Farmers Market if youβre in town on a Sunday. It runs from 7am β 1pm, and it is located here. It features a produce market along with stalls lining the street serving all types of Colombian delicacies.
Here is an informative guide that we utilized β be sure to sample the arepas de choclo (Truly delicious) and the guarapo.
Here are some other places we loved.Β
- Veg Station – A prime vegetarian bistro in El Poblado serving excellent veggie burgers.
- Verdeo – Another quality plant-based provider, also situated in El Poblado.
- Naan Sabores de India – Though unexpected in Colombia, this Indian eatery hit the spot when diversifying menus after several weeks. Staff assisted determining gluten-free choices, and fare tasted top-notch.
For the highest quality locally sourced coffee in MedellΓn, head directly to Pergamino, located in El Poblado and leaving me truly impressed. Additional favored places were Rituales,CafΓ© Tipica, and DΓ¨lmuri CafΓ©, all situated in Laureles.
Days 11-14: Cartagena
Cartagena is Colombiaβs coastal gem on the Caribbean Coast, featuring colorful buildings, interesting architecture, and an unfortunate history period. It was established in the 1500s and served as a major port for the Spanish Empire that brought enslaved Africans to the Caribbean.
Today, Getsemani is an extremely trendy neighborhood, with Instagram-worthy streets thanks to the umbrellas hanging above, but it once housed displaced and enslaved people. It`s something to remember as one walks the now colorful and lively streets and takes photographs.
With that historic context in mind, Cartagena is a beautiful city, and provides a very unique experience compared to the other locations youβve visited so far.
The Afro-Carribean influences are everywhere, from the cuisine, which centers more on seafood, to the colorful structures decorated with all sorts of flowers and, this may sound peculiar, very unique door knockers (historically, every wealthy family had its own as a kind of familial symbol).
Getting to Cartagena
Cartagena is on the northern coast of Colombia, right on the Caribbean. To get there from MedellΓn, you need to fly. The flight is under an hour, while the bus ride is going to take 12+ hours.
Again, fly with Avianca if possible. Trust us on this recommendation
To reach the airport from MedellΓn, have your hotel call a taxi. The rate is fixed, and is going to be somewhat cheaper than the journey from the airport.
You will fly into the Rafael NΓΊΓ±ez International Airport (CTG), which is actually relatively close to the city center compared to some of the other airports in Colombia. Take a taxi from the airport for the four mile journey into the city β the fare is fixed from the airport to the Walled City, and will cost about 10,000 COP (~$3.50 USD).
Where to Stay in Cartagena
Weβd advise staying in San Diego, which is inside the Walled City on the northern side of town. Itβs where we lodged, and itβs a perfect home base for exploring the city.
Whatever you opt to do, do not lodge in Bocagrande. The beach in Cartagena sounds romantic, but we found it to be quite the opposite. While some attractive beaches are nearby, this is not among them. Itβs also far from the most intriguing parts of the city, meaning you`ll likely take a taxi (or bus) to access them, versus strolling the beautiful streets of Cartagena.
Update: We have an entire post on where to reside in Cartagena, and you should certainly examine that for more in-depth recommendations on the finest places to stay in this charming, colorful, and energetic city.
If you want a charming and cost-effective hostel, look no further than Maloka Boutique Hostel, which has comfortable private rooms (with shared or private bathrooms), helpful staff, breakfast included, and a perfect location in San Diego.
Looking for accommodation in Cartagena? There are numerous alternatives, but most of the hotels in the Old Town fall on the luxurious end of the spectrum β the more affordable chain hotels are located farther out near Bocagrande AND YOU SHOULD NOT STAY THERE.
We walked through Bantu, an accommodation in the heart of the enclosed city, because I was interested in the architecture and I had read about their story. Itβs expensive, but the space is beautiful. If youβre watching your budget, Iβd strongly advise considering Airbnb or Maloka Boutique Hostel.
Still wanting a hotel? Click here to find the perfect hotel in Cartagena
What to Do and See in Cartagena
Similar to other cities in Colombia, Cartagena offers a diverse range of activities and sights to explore. Here are some things we particularly enjoyed.
Take a Street Food Tour
On every street corner in Cartagena, you will find food vendors selling varied items like arepas, empanadas, and freshly squeezed fruit juices. Try all of these offerings, as well as some unusual foods you may not have considered, during a guided street food tour led by a local chef.
Learn About Cartagenaβs Colonial History
During our trip, we participated in an extraordinary walking tour that guided us around the city in a large circle while we gained knowledge about Cartagenaβs past, current situation, and future aspirations. Regrettably, that tour is no longer available, yet this walking tour is the next best option that we found.
Kayak to a Beautiful Island
π Top Tip: A bear bellis very beneficial tool for use in areas inhabited by bears, warning the animal of your approach. Affix it on the outside of your pack and with any luck, neither of you will be surprised on the trail!
Itβs a very unique way to explore Cartagena and visit a lovely island that most travelers likely never consider.
Take a Cooking Class
Cover More Ground By Bicycle Tour: On this outing, you`ll cover more area than on foot, like sampling coffee and fruits. However, the tradeoff is you`ll get less of an in-depth look at Colombia`s history, which was something we valued.
We learned how to cook arepas de huevo, fish baked in banana leaves, and incredibly sweet coconut rice with a friendly married couple at their restaurant in the center of Cartagena.
It was really cool to connect with other pilgrims and learn about their experiences in Cartagena and the rest of Colombia too.
Explore Bazurto Market
The principal market in Cartagena, replete with food vendors, fresh produce, and more, is best explored with a local resident. This guided tour takes you to peruse the market to sample some of the foods and fruits available, while giving you an insider`s perspective on the cityβs history and significant issues in Cartagena today.
Stop in Lindos with plenty of time to visit Acropolis
Where to Eat & Drink in Cartagena
So Cartagena presented a test for me, Matt, as somebody with Celiac affliction. That signifies that I truly need to stay away from gluten completely, and I found that somewhat difficult to do in Cartagena. Numerous fried meals in fryers/pots that also fry gluten, and many soy sauce (which is not gluten free) utilized in marinades.
I enjoyed success at Stepping Stone Cafe (that black bean stew is truly fantastic), Pezetarian (100% gluten free ceviche that is commendable) and Quero Arepas (Venezuelan-style stuffed arepas), but struggled feeling at ease dining elsewhere.
Therefore, we largely prepared meals ourselves, going to the market and store to procure some fresh fruit, plantains, avocado, eggs, and more. Generally, if I am uncertain whether I can consume something safely, I opt to avoid it rather than risk being ill for days.
However, that does not necessarily imply that non-Celiacs like yourself are unable to eat delicious food in Cartagena.
Here are a couple resources to help you locate incredible food during your trip:
For this particular route, you require the South Brooklyn ferry heading north towards Corlears Hook. Your stop is DUMBO. You can also take the East River Ferry towards Hunterβs Point South, which takes you to the same stop (DUMBO). See both routes and a map of the ferry system here.
The coffee of highest quality in Cartagena can be found at Epoca Espresso Bar, where youβll be able to select from various options ranging from pour over to espresso drinks.
For a relaxing environment (but coffee that wasnβt quite as premium), head to Abaco Librosand Cafe. Pro-tip: thatβs also where youβll find the finest outlook in Cartagena.
For beverages and an enjoyable night out, do not miss Aquimilco, a trendy and happening three floor cocktail bar with a rooftop. The ground floor has secret lounge vibes in abundance, and the rooftop was full when we were there on a random weeknight.
What to Do with More Time in Colombia
You`re lucky! You probably have adequate time to visit one or two of our favorite locations in Colombia!
This is a listing of other places to add, along with how much time to spend there, in order from our strongest recommendation to our weakest recommendation. Specifically, from best to least preferable.
I touched on the hike to La Ciudad Perdida(“the Lost City”) above, which involves spending four to six days navigating through the jungle to an ancient city that dates back further than Machu Picchu in Peru. If you wish to incorporate that, it will be at least five to seven days including arriving in Santa Marta and doing the hike.
JardΓn (2 Days / 1 Night)
We fell for JardΓn as the bus crested the hill above it and began its descent into the valley it sits within. Itβs lush, green, charming, and the architecture is beautifully colorful.
It lies south of MedellΓn in Colombiaβs Antioquia department in the Andes Mountains. Many people recommended Minca, which ended up being disappointing (youβll find it at the bottom of this list), but a couple of folks we spoke to said to go to JardΓn, which we had never heard of before, and it was a gem.
Bright hues adorn the buildings lining the bustling streets make for exquisite photos, as do the cowboys enjoying their morning coffee on the main square.
Oh, and the hike up to CafΓ© JardΓn situated on the hill above town should not be missed.
Getting there involves some travel, unless you do it from MedellΓn, which is what we would recommend. Even then, plan on four to six hours. Youβll take the bus from MedellΓnβs Terminal de Sur.
We utilized this guide to strategize the journey, and found the information extremely valuable.
Parque Tayrona (2 days)
Seriously, Parque Tayrona is gorgeous. Pristine sandy beaches. Palm trees swaying. Crystalline waters. Paradise.
It requires a bit of effort to reach, but adding it to your itinerary before going to Cartagena, as we did, doesn`t make it too inconvenient.”
You will need to fly into Santa Marta, take a taxi to the transportation hub at the Central Market, then ride on a bus headed towards Parque Tayrona. The following guide provides information about how to get there.
Theoretically, the ideal way to do it is to camp on the beach at night, but based on what we heard from other travelers, itβs also not a great experience β dirty tents, packed closely like sardines, wet and unwashed sleeping bags, etc etc.
Weβd recommend a day trip into the park, which is what we ended up choosing.
Youβd require spending two nights, arriving the night prior to entering the park (dwell at Eco Hostal Yuluka). Then commence early in the morning and enter at the El Zaino entrance, hike out to Cabo San Juan, relax on the shoreline and conduct a bit of exploring, and then exit the park and stay another night at Eco Hostal Yuluka, which was our favored hostel in all of Colombia. Mainly because of the waterslide.
Then wake up the following daytime and board the shuttle returning you to Santa Marta, and afterward continuing to Cartagena.
Filandia (Day Trip from Salento)
Since we had a full week in Salento, and there were approximately four days` worth of activities in Salento, we ended up with an extra day or three. We decided to leave town and travel to Filandia, a similar but definitely less famous town around an hour`s drive away. Weβre glad we made this choice.
The town is quieter than Salento and home to one of our favored restaurants during the entire trip β Helena Adentro.
In addition to food, youβll want to make it out to the Mirador de Quindio, which has fantastic views over the countryside.
The following link provides information on traveling from Salento to Filandia, which involves transferring between buses after disembarking roadside and crossing a major highway on foot. This route certainly offers adventure.
Guatape (Day Trip from MedellΓn)
We did not participate in this, as we had previously ventured to JardΓn, but numerous people journey to Guatape to ascend the enormous rock formation. One can either accomplish this independently (refer to this guide), or join a guided excursion from MedellΓn.
San Gil (2-3 Days)
Another advantage of watching whales in Iceland during winter is smaller crowds for calmer experiences without the volumes of visitors.
Itβs located in the Andes, north of BogotΓ‘, and is filled with all sorts of outdoor adventure activities, ranging from mountain biking to white water rafting and paragliding. Hereβs a guide to the top things to do in San Gil, as we didnβt actually visit.
Minca
The destination of Minca was anticipated after reading about its up and coming bohemian backpacker scene. However, it didn`t live up to expectations. Two particularly poor tours designed for tourists and generally unfavorable vibes were experienced there.
It has become a victim of its own fame, and we donβt think it has the same charm it did five years ago when every travel blogger and their mother declared it was their favorite spot in Colombia. We spent five days there, and we wouldnβt return.
What to Eat and Drink in Colombia
Colombian cuisine is delicious, diverse, and affordable.
It is worth pausing on diversity, as Colombia`s food culture immensely varies across regions.
A helpful instance would be βarroz de cocoβ β coconut rice β which youβll discover nearly all over Colombia as a side dish. In MedellΓn and BogotΓ‘, we observed it to be more savory, with just a little bit of panela (unrefined cane sugar) contributed. Once we arrived at the Caribbean coast, in Cartagena and Parque Tayrona, an immense amount of sugar was included. We participated in a cooking lesson in Cartagena, and I think we included seventeen pounds of panela to the recipe (vs. a quarter cup in MedellΓn).
Corn cakes: If youβve followed Alysha and I, you know we greatly enjoy corn cakes. Colombian corn cakes are generally thin, and served as a side. What you usually find in the US and Europe are Venezuelan-style corn cakes, which are stuffed full of various ingredients. That being said, in Cartagena youβll find egg-filled corn cakes that are deep fried (aka delicious). Youβll find corn cakes everywhere, and I would be astonished if you spent two weeks in Colombia and never came across a corn cake. Itβs worth seeking out corn cakes made with a specific type of corn, and served topped with salty cheese. Oh, and yuca corn cakes filled with cheese in the center are incredible too β you can find them at most supermarkets.
Patacones: We now have these at home regularly after learning how to prepare them through a cooking demonstration in Cartagena that clarified the sequencing involved (prior, we struggled with flattening them correctly). Basically, it involves boiling, compressing, and then frying plantains. And they taste wonderful. You`ll find them served as a side virtually anywhere in Colombia.
Ceviche: Colombia loves its seafood salad, particularly found on the coast of the Carribean. Still, youβll come across ceviche throughout the country, even in the mountainous capital city of Bog ogota.
Chocolate con Queso: Yes, you read correctly. Itβs essentially hot chocolate with cheese. You must try it while in the Andean region.
Trout: The Quindio department, which is home to Salento, is replete with trout fisheries. On every menu in Salento youβll find βtruchaβ β Grilled, fried, plantain encrusted, topped with cream sauce, and nearly everything in between. When youβre in Salento, you have to order trout, which will probably be served with coconut rice and patacones.
Soup! Particularly noteworthy soups include Ajiaco and Sancocho. Ajiaco originates from the mountainous and colder areas around BogotΓ‘. It`s a stew made combining various potato varieties, chicken, and corn. Sancocho has a similar makeup, but incorporates yucca and plantains in addition to potatoes. This exemplifies Colombia`s incredible diversity – soups from mountain regions feature a light, flavorful broth brimming with chicken and root vegetables, whereas coastal northern soups frequently use coconut milk as the base and include seafood due to its abundance.
Empanadas: In Colombia, unlike many parts of Latin America, empanadas are made with maize rather than flour, which is great. Theyβre then stuffed with everything from potatoes and veggies, to cheese, and of course all of the meats. Theyβre perfect street food, because you can get a couple as youβre walking around and eat them with your hands. Though they can be greasy.
Guarapo: Fresh squeezed sugarcane – like watching them press it with a cool machine – mixed with lime juice. Absolutely delicious.
A Plethora of Produce: The nation of Colombia boasts an exceptionally diverse assortment of fruits. As a resident of California, where the selection of fresh foods is quite impressive, I often consider ourselves rather privileged regarding extraordinary harvests. However, it pales in comparison to the breadth of options available in Colombia. One experience we consistently reference when recounting our journey to Colombia involves participating in a fruit exploration in BogotΓ‘. We toured Paloquemao Market, the massive distribution center where all locally sourced harvests arrive before being circulated to stores and eateries in BogotΓ‘. There, over three hours were dedicated to sampling INNUMERABLE TYPES OF FRUIT. This was remarkable as we were accompanied by a knowledgeable college student familiar with identifying diverse varieties and how to properly eat and select them. Usually when exploring markets independently, we spend a brief period being impressed by the quantity of produce then departing confused, lacking familiarity with where or how to begin exploring options. If time permits, definitely incorporate a fruit-focused tour in BogotΓ‘ or other destinations on your itinerary.
Here are a few additional notes on food and drink options in Colombia.
Continue heading west along Oike-dΕri, and you will arrive at NijΕ Castle, one of Kyotoβs premier attractions. The Imperial Palace served as the home for the emperor, yet this structure was the base of operations for the shogunate in the city, where the true power was held. Constructed by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1603, its grounds house the 33-room Ninomaru Palace (the Shogunβs Kyoto residence) with a garden designed by renowned gardener Kobori Enshu, and the Honmaru Palace (the emperorβs quarters). The palaces are undergoing renovations. Check the website for updates. It is worth paying extra to tour either palaceβs interior since there is nothing comparable anywhere else in Kyoto. Otherwise, you can walk around the gardens and see the exterior.
Is Colombia Safe?
In a word (or two), kind of.
First of all, I want to make it unambiguously clear that this is a continually developing and immensely intricate issue that we donβt have all the answers to, but we do have six weeks of experience traveling around Colombia as tourists, similar to what youβre about to do.
Like most other travelers, when informing individuals of plans to visit Colombia, the reaction was nearly unanimous being “Oh my God! Is it safe to go there?”. The response paralleled what was received regarding travel to Mexico City, though perhaps with added intensity, especially among the over 40 crowd.
And it`s no real surprise, truly. Colombia`s tragic history of war and brutality has received significant media coverage for decades. MedellΓn was even branded the most hazardous city on the planet as recently as the early 90s!
MedellΓn provides an excellent example of how significantly Colombia has transformed over the past two decades.
MedellΓn is a fascinating city, and I think itβs a beacon on a hill for cities wondering if investing in infrastructure projects has long-term benefits.
They have channeled funds into projects to connect the outer parts of the city to, as Sebastian β a guide on the best walking tour in MedellΓn β put it, bring chance to other parts of the city.
Nowadays, an extensive above-ground metro network connects with trams and GONDOLAS linking poorer upland areas to the downtown core containing job opportunities and community services. Investment in institutions like libraries, schools, and community hubs in some disadvantaged neighborhoods has also occurred (can one imagine such in the US?).
Over the past 25 years, MedellΓn has transformed from one of the most hazardous cities globally to one of the most progressive and forward-looking.
While Colombia still contends with certain armed non-government groups in some rural locales, ensure you examine travel advisories cautiously before your trip. Remote southwestern and northeastern areas are best avoided, as is much of the Pacific shoreline based on existing circumstances.
Like all major cities, areas like BogotΓ‘, MedellΓn, and Cartagena all have sections that tourists shouldnβt spend too much time in, particularly at night. Consult tour guides and hotel/hostel staff for recommendations on where to go and avoid. In BogotΓ‘, we were also told taking a taxi after dark is something best avoided β use the rideshare apps like Uber or Beat (a local Uber) instead.
Also as with all large cities, petty crime is the biggest issue you may encounter. Keep your phone and other valuables safely stored when in public spaces, maintain alertness, and chances are youβll likely be fine.
Final Thoughts
Writing this prompted me to repeatedly wish to return approximately seventeen times. Colombia is a country full of beautiful, diverse peoples, landscapes, cultures, foods, and likely other aspects I may have neglected to mention. Whether seeking to explore an immense urban metropolis, or unwind on the coast or in a rustic mountain town, one can probably find it in Colombia.
This guide is based on our experience, and didnβt even cover places like Cali and PopayΓ‘n, or Barranquilla or the Tatacoa Desert. Or the Amazon Rainforest!
There are so many wonderful places throughout Colombia waiting to be explored – after two weeks in Colombia, all you`ll want to do is book your return flight to experience it all over again.
Planning a trip to Colombia? Donβt miss our other Colombia travel guides, based on our six weeks of wandering around Colombia.
- A Comprehensive 3-Day Itinerary for Exploring BogotΓ‘, Colombia
- Accommodation options in Medellin, Colombia: A complete overview
- The Best Coffee in Lisbon: 9 Amazing Lisbon Coffee Establishments to Add to Your List
- How to Plan a 2 Week Colombia Itinerary
- The top 5 most compelling spots to visit in Colombia: South Americaβs best kept hidden gems
- Top places to rest your head in BogotΓ‘, Colombia`s vibrant capital city
