Viñales – Things to Do in Rural Cuba in 4 Days

Viñales Valley is one of those incredible landscapes that is deeply etched into the eyes of fortunate ones who manage to observe it. It lies in the westernmost and also most rustic province of the island, Pinar del Río. It’s also among the most notable attractions in Cuba.

We assure you that upon first viewing mogotes (hummocks), a feeling of freedom will take hold of you. And these limestone karstic formations could have perfectly served as inspiration for the Avatar scenarios.

The Cuba of the Guajiros will leave you speechless. Extensive traditional tobacco and coffee plantations flood your sight. If we say Cuba is stuck in time, Viñales seems to have directly returned to it. Plows of oxen and freely roaming chickens on the main avenue are part of everyday life in this town.

It was our preferred location of this journey to Cuba, and with all the admiration that we have for this valley, we have constructed this Guide of best things to do in Viñales.

BEST THINGS TO DO IN VIÑALES in 4 days

1st day in viñales – Cueva del Indio and Cueva de los Cimarrones – BICYCLE ROUTE

Visiting Viñales by bicycle is essential.

On one hand, distances are too great to cover on foot. However, traveling by vehicle or taxi diminishes the scenery, making it impossible to truly experience Viñales from the windows.

Our recommendation is that if you truly wish to experience the Valley of Viñales fully, you should familiarize yourself with every hill. We can assure you that the sights will be well worth the effort and that the climb is not as strenuous as it may seem. Absorbing the surrounding plantations and allowing the hummocks to reveal their unique forms is priceless.

In this one-day route in Viñales that we propose, you will uncover two of the most symbolic caves and end up refreshing in the pool with some of the best views of the entire valley. Stay at sunset and enjoy a unique twilight.

TRAVELING THE 241 ROAD AMONG HUMMOCKS

The initial portion of this route is traveled along highway 241 which connects the central area of Viñales to Cueva del Indio. From the center of the town, the distinctive shapes of the hills can be appreciated from all angles. Along this road you will pass by severalMogotes that will transport you to another realm.

These rocky formations are not run-of-the-mill, they are karstic terrain elevations with rounded and isolated shapes present in some areas of the Caribbean. While they usually are not that high, they are troublesome to scale on foot. Indeed, Viñales is a place where numerous climbers come from all over the world in search of walls that test their climbing abilities. That is why Viñales Valley has become the cradle of sport climbing on the island.

Each mogote possesses a unique shape and characteristic lines. Green and magical are typical descriptors.

Cueva del Indio

Another trait of the hummocks is that these formations are commonly hollow inside, resulting in numerous caves.

The Cueva del Indio (Indian Cave) is undoubtedly the most visited cave in Viñales. The price of admission was 5 CUC.

The internal rock formations inside are amazing. Nevertheless, the primary draw of this cave is the San Vicente river that flows through within. At the conclusion of your visit in the cave, you will cross part of the river by small boat.

When a villager discovered the cave in the 20s, different cave drawings and archaeological artifacts were found inside. Scientists determined that the cave served as housing for the indigenous people who lived on the island before colonization and hence the origin of its name.

Just outside the cave itself presents a spectacular view, with sights such as Indian tepees and an atmosphere that places us in the right setting. Visiting hours are from 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

This is the furthest point we will see on our bicycle route through Viñales. It takes approximately half an hour to get here by bicycle. While there are some inclines along the way, most of the route is flat with a maximum elevation change of 100 meters.

Cueva de san miguel and palenque de los Cimarrones

Although the Cueva de San Miguel (Cave of San Miguel) does not provide the attraction of a river cruise, we assure you that it is very worthwhile.

The interior layout is less impressive and smaller than the Cueva del Indio. However, at the conclusion of the tour one will find a musical presentation that discusses the history of Cuba. It is a fire and drum dance that tells you the life of the Cimarrones, African slaves who managed to escape from the sugar mills and hid in the mountains. Considering that there are many caves in the hummocks, Viñales was an ideal place to hide.

These secret societies that formed lived in constant danger of being captured by ranchers who even trained dogs to chase them. With this, they planted seeds of tolerance, equality and plurality that still persists in Cuban society.

At the exit of the cave is a restaurant named Palenque de los Cimarrones. Palenque are structures that the fugitives made to take refuge in the mountainous areas.

Here, you can sample dishes typical of slaves, whose star ingredient was rice. Additionally, the restaurant views are some of the best during this visit.

At the exit of the cave you will have to go around a mogote to return to the entrance.

The ticket price is 5 CUC (although in this cave I think you could also pay in CUP which is much more affordable) and it opens from 9:00 to 17:30.

SUNSET AT the hotel los JAZMINES

After 20 minutes of pedal power from the Cave of San Miguel, we arrived back at the town center of Viñales.

If after your bicycle ride you wish to unwind and enjoy one of the valley`s finest sunsets, I recommend not getting out of the saddle to pedal another 30 minutes to the Los Jazmines Hotel. Though it is at the top of an incline, once more it is unquestionably worth the effort to make the journey.

At this hotel you can find a pool with a view of the valley. The cost for afternoon access is 3 CUC and you will see that it is a site mostly frequented by locals rather than tourists.

We advise selecting a table near the railing to enjoy the fading sunlight illuminating the valley.

This cycling route is ideal to do on your initial day in Viñales. If only having one day to explore this region, I suggest combining this route with other places that will be recommended in following segments.

2nd day in viñales – DAWN IN THE AQUATICS – NIGHT TREKKING

If you feel that primitive need to climb the mounds after admiring them from their base, then you have no alternative. This is the experience you need.

Experiencing the sunrise over the Aquatics will always be one of the most memorable excursions from our time in Viñales. Wandering without a clear direction, we discovered the road required crossing a river using a tree trunk as a bridge, getting lost to the point of giving up hope, and eventually arriving just before the first rays appeared behind the mounds. It was an experience that will never fade. Returning in the daylight with all that had been lost in the darkness, this trekking made the top three greatest adventures we have lived so far.

This trekking provided us with both a challenge and a rewarding experience, as none from the village believed we could succeed without a guide and only during the day. For this reason, overcoming the difficulties to reach this place and knowing the beautiful sights would make the effort worthwhile. Here, the secrets of this adventure will be revealed.

ORGANIZATION

We intended to independently complete this trek at dawn. The son of our private house, who worked as a tour guide, informed us that he had never climbed the Aquatics and was unfamiliar with doing so. A guide is not necessarily required to reach the Aquatics at daybreak. Before embarking, ensure the following:

• Download the Mapswithme application onto your mobile.

Exploring the delightful monkeys located within the Monkey Forest offers immense enjoyment among all options in Ubud.

One can access the file through the dropbox application on their mobile device. A dialog box will appear requiring the selection of opening the document with the Mapswithme program (Maps.me or Me for friends)

Once you are in Viñales:

• Arrange with a taxi driver to pick you up from your private residence at 3 a.m. and transport you to the Campismo dos Hermanas. Your adventure will commence there.

• Bring enough water and snacks. The tour can last all morning.

• If you are like us and want to witness the sunrise from the top of a hill, you will have to begin the route entirely in the dark. Do not forget to bring flashlights or headlamps, they are essential.

GUIDED BY MAPSWITHME

I admit that I did not know regarding the existence of this program until a few weeks just before our trip to Cuba. Initially I believed it was a kind of Google Maps without the necessity of an internet connection.

However, the application surpassed all expectations. In addition to the roadways and pathways that you can find on Google Maps, Maps.me incorporates trails and points of interest that do not surface on Google. Among them, the trail to the Aquatics.

Another observation that took me by surprise is that MAPS.ME continually provided correctness.

During our trek, the route appeared to fade or veer in an alternate way occasionally compared to the one designated on the application. Do not focus on anything other than ME. Follow the GPS landmark, even if it seems you’re straying off track. We became lost numerous times by distrusting the application`s navigation.

We were almost ready to abandon our efforts at one stage. The application guided us down a route intersected by a river without indicating a means to cross over. However, the path we ended up on continued further and we theorized the mapping program may have contained an inaccuracy.

After getting lost for over half an hour, we decided to pay attention to our guide, and noticed there was a fallen tree serving as a bridge to cross the river with a rope to hold onto. I doubt we would have spotted it in full daylight without the guide`s help.

We doubted that we could arrive before dawn, so we climbed the mound swiftly. From Campismo Dos Hermanas, it takes approximately 50 minutes. However, since you will be starting in the dark and need time to become oriented, consider about 2 hours.

The trek involved goes 3 km one way. It is not really intricate, excluding the challenge of orientation.

THE AQUATICS

And within just a couple moments, we arrived at the aquatic zones before sunrise. The perspectives from this location are amazing, particularly when the valley is tinted orange. Spending no less than one sunrise here during your stay in Viñales may be an once-in-a-lifetime encounter for you too.

BUT WHAT IS EXACTLY THE AQUATICS?

We were informed that in the 1930s, the Virgin appeared to Antoñica Izquierdo, a very impoverished peasant, to cure her children who were critically ill. In return, the Virgin requested that she heal other sick people using only water. Therefore, this lady became known as “La Curandera de los Cayos”, and the set of individuals who put their faith in it, The Aquatics. This religion worships God and water and does not allow its practitioners to visit a doctor. They could only be healed using water.

Today there are only two families of Aquatics residing in the mountains of Viñales. However, as we could see, they may remain dedicated to their beliefs to stay as an important allure for tourists.

After watching the sunrise at the aquatics center, we had breakfast at the home of one of the local families. We also asked various questions to better understand the customs of these inhabitants so detached from city life.

THE BEST VIEWS OF VIÑALES

Nonetheless there exist still superior perspectives than those from the Aquatics. The route to attain them does not surface in Google Maps or Maps.me. But do not worry, the KML file that you have downloaded holds the route and you can arrive there with the aid of ME.

If you continue ascending the mountain, after passing the home of the second Aquatics family you will arrive at a kind of agricultural farm where you can observe the finest perspectives of the valley from there.

It was unfortunate not to have been aware of this place sooner, as we would have enjoyed seeing the sunrise from here. It only took 15 additional minutes to arrive here from the Aquatics.

In the complete Guide to planning your voyage to Cuba, we stated that we lamented not taking our tent to Cuba, twice. Undoubtedly, one of them was here. After being able to admire the views from here, we understood it was an error to not be able to enjoy the experience of waking up to these views.

AQUATIC CAVE

A farmer who was maintaining a taro field told us he had not seen many individuals out there and that if we continued walking a little farther, we would reach a cavern with a small inland lake. After we got there, how could go without inspecting it?

His directions specified: “Follow the path for 10 minutes, jump the animal fences, and when you come across a palm tree, turn to the right“.

It took us a long time to find the route and the palm tree (this course is also in the KML), but ultimately we discovered it, along with a rock pathway to the entrance of the cave.

Without any doubt, it was an authentic adventure as the untouched nature in this untouched area was immense. It seemed that we were in another realm when we ultimately discovered the entry to the cave.

We did not carry flashlights, and after jumping through a couple of rocks that gave us access and a sense of the water inside, we decided it would be better to swim in the part of the lake that is outside the cave.

Here we were in a paradise unknown to maps, accompanied by shrimps inhabiting this lake of icy waters, millions of snails too small to fit in our palm, and Dani and me.

THE MURAL OF THE PREHISTORY

After refreshing, we set out to retrace the path we had traveled in the dark. The distances seemed shorter in broad daylight. Even though the night before was puzzling, this time, the walk was quite straightforward.

I distinctly remember the feeling of disbelief upon seeing places we had walked through during the nighttime hours. Were we truly just there, so near to the small hill and reservoir? Instead of a sense that we retraced our steps, it seemed we traversed a novel route, especially when encountering the artwork depicting prehistory, which had previously been just another shadow under nightfall.

The Mural of Prehistory stands out as one of the largest frescoes globally. On one of the upright hillside panels at Pita in 1959, striking colors and illustrations were applied depicting the biological evolution of species on the island of Cuba. Included among the renderings were native Cubans from antiquity as well as certain animals that are now extinct but inhabited the land in past eras.

Dos Hermanas

Directly before the mural is Campismo Dos Hermanas, where the taxi driver had left us over 10 hours earlier. In this camping area there exists an option to rent either a cabin or tent directly.

While Cuba has undergone significant changes in recent years, tourism for locals and foreigners continues to remain quite divided. The majority of hotels exclusively accepted foreigners while the campsites were designated for domestic tourism. Therefore, most of the people present are locals even though things are evolving. Camping can be a great way to interact with Cuban people if you enjoy that type of accommodation.

Additionally, the campsite restaurant`s pricing was very reasonable. We only paid 1.5 CUC for a pasta dish.

Finca Agroecológica el Paraíso

If wanting to end the day in the most ideal manner imaginable, then a visit must be paid to Finca Agroecológica el Paraíso. All dishes at this restaurant are prepared using natural ingredients they cultivate in their garden, where one may also stroll through.

The building also contains an observation tower where visitors can take in magnificent views across the surrounding valley, especially during sunset hours.

Cocktails are served at the bottom of the tower. I had the best pineapple drink of my life here, and they call it a special stress-relieving cocktail. In addition to rum, pineapple juice, and coconut milk, it is prepared with 5 medicinal plants: peppermint, mint, holy grass, anise and basil.

After sunset, we had dinner on this farm and the portions were huge. The price of the menu is fixed: 10 CUC and 8 CUC for the vegetarian menu.

Some of the meals included on the menu are:

• Chips of Malanga
• Yuca toast with guacamole
• Fried plantains with tuna.
• Mixed salad
• Cooked pumpkin
• Vegetable soup
• Baked sweet potato
• Chicken thighs
• Veal in sauce
• Tuna with onions
• Egg Custard
• Coffee

We felt regretful that they offered us food as we if we were a larger group despite there’s only two of us. So, we returned half of the dishes before even touching them. We still highly recommend visiting this restaurant. The views from the terrace are spectacular, the quality of the food was difficult to match with any other locations we tried during the trip.

3rd day in viñales – Finca de Raúl Reyes and Cueva de la Vaca – the Cuba of the Guajiros

We recommend this route to gain an in-depth familiarity with the most rustic regions of Cuba, home to those referred to locally as Guajiros, the name for peasants here. You can travel by bicycle in this area but for the remainder of the journey from Finca de Raúl Reyes, it will need to be done on foot. A single morning is sufficient time for this activity.

Here we leave the KML:

Finca de Raúl Reyes

In Viñales there is substantial business in coffee and tobacco plantation visits and cigar sales, etc. Touring one of these plantations is something we highly recommend in this guide of things to do in Viñales for 4 days.

Generally, these trips are provided by guides who take visitors to plantations. However, they will bring people to certain plantations where prices of these goods are higher and the guides obtain a commission when their customers purchase an item. This is quite typical, particularly in the so-called Valle del Silencio, which we did not explore.

Raúl Reyes is an exception. This humble farmer does not ask for anything in exchange for his time explaining life in the countryside and his work in cultivating tobacco and coffee.

We thought he was very gracious to permit us explore his plantations and view the tobacco leaves drying house, so we inquired if he would sell us a souvenir to take back to Spain. The prices were very reasonable and of unsurpassed quality. We felt it was much more authentic than the other plantations, where the main goal seems to be sell as much as able to tourists.

To provide an idea of the pricing at the Finca de Raúl Reyes, we paid 4 CUC for a half-liter container filled with roasted coffee beans. 5 regular cigars or 10 smaller cigars for 5 CUC. Other foreigners we met told us they paid 50 CUC for 10 cigars, which was five times more than the price we paid.

Additionally, the site is extremely pleasant and relaxing. We ordered some lemon and sugar cane juice as well as mamey juice (a fruit that we did not previously know existed) for 1 CUC each while we laid down in a hammock.

VIEWPOINT

Once prepared, we decided to ascend to a viewpoint, leaving our bicycles at the Finca de Raúl Reyes farm.

The roadway is not well marked. The indications are in the KML file attached above.

The trail splits with one route taking you to a reservoir. Had we continued straight, we would go up a hill with panoramic views of the valley. By veering right, we arrived at the Cueva de la Vaca, as we will tell you in the next section.

The route to the viewpoint is straightforward yet one must be aware in advance that the existing fences are not intended to block access, but so that animals do not escape. Do not feel badly about leaping over them because you are not entering any place that is restricted.

Following the uphill path, the entire valley will be behind you. Expectations of a viewpoint sign indicating it as a viewpoint should not be had. From there, the views are very beautiful.

From this vantage point, one will be able to see many climbing routes beginning as evidenced by the bolts fixed to the surfaces of the rocky masses.

Cueva de la Vaca

Walking along the reservoir back at the path, we reached the Cueva de la Vaca (The Cow Cave).

Based on the map, the cave was said to have an exit on the other side of the hill, but no light was seen at the end within the cave. Additionally, many bats started flying around when the area was illuminated using a phone flashlight.

After a couple of minutes of indecision, hesitating whether to experience it or turn around, we heard voices coming from the posterior of the cavern and before long after we saw flashlights. A couple who came back told us that it was completely protected to cross the cavern so we did it and practically in the dim.

The perspectives on the other side were nothing spectacular since everything was covered with weeds and nothing intriguing was seen. Nonetheless, it was funny going under all those placidly sleeping bats.

4rd day in viñales – OTHER THINGS TO DO

I strongly recommend that on your 4-day trip to Viñales, arrange at minimum one day for the first of the activities we propose below in this section.

You can partake in other activities at any point during your time in the beautiful region of Viñales.

Cayo Jutías

If you visit Viñales, it is essential to go to the notable natural area of Cayo Jutías.

Undoubtedly, it was the most attractive, wild, and natural beach we saw during our time in Cuba.

To depart from Viñales, the best choice is to hire a shared taxi. To search for one, ask the Cubans who are stationed in front of the Viazul office one day before the excursion.

It takes approximately an hour and a half to arrive at the beach since the roadways are in poor condition. The cost is 15 CUC per person for a round trip. Although it was pre-arranged and we paid for a round trip, we did not utilize the return portion. The history and all the complete details about this beach are contained in this post regarding Cayo Jutías.

BOTANICAL GARDEN

It is said to be the most lavish Botanical Garden one could see in their lifetime. we recommend experiencing it as entry is free (though donations are encouraged) and it is centrally located in the town.

I am uncertain if the plants we observed possessed any unique qualities. Regardless, the disassembled dolls ornamenting the plants stole the scene.

HOUSE OF MUSIC

We also suggest visiting the Casa de la Música de Viñales, held at the Polo Montañez cultural center. Although our preferred remains in Trinidad, any location is good to enjoy live music and a dance presentation.

It is open from 9pm to 1am daily and the cost is 2 CUC during Friday and Saturday and 1 CUC for the remainder of the week.

Cueva del PALMARITO

Even after spending 4 days in Viñales, we left other places and things on our list to explore next time we return. Undoubtedly, one of these locations is the Cueva del Palmarito. From what we were told, it has an incredible naturally formed pool inside. To enter you will need a flashlight as you will be completely in the dark. The cost of admission is 2 CUC.

Cueva de Santo Tomás

However, out of all the caves in Viñales, the Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás is the most important one. It forms the largest underground structure system in Cuba and the second biggest in America.

Your visit should be done with guidance and with the use of helmet and flashlights. The price of admission is 1 CUC.

We were unable to visit it because they informed us it was closed for restoration work following a minor landslide.

TRANSPORTATION TO VIÑALES

Viñales is in the opposing bearing of the sites frequented by tourists such as Cienfuegos,Trinidad and Santa Clara. Therefore, you necessity traverse Havana to create a connection to Viñales which consumes added time and costs added. If you are in one of these easterly towns, I recommend that you employ a shared taxi.

These shared taxis, even if changing vehicles once passing through Havana, do not enter the city, which saves a significant amount of time. Additionally, the cost ends up being more affordable than hiring two independent trips to make the stopover in Havana. We paid 30CUC for the complete trip between Trinidad – Viñales that lasted over six hours.

As commented by the locals, drivers operating taxi services between Viñales and Trinidad coordinate with drivers who offer transportation for the trip. When vehicles pass through Havana, passengers transfer to other taxis allowing drivers to return home each day.

However, prepare for an uncomfortable experience. Taxi drivers commonly carry four passengers, so returning individuals will be squeezed in tightly. Undoubtedly, this was the most uncomfortable trip of my life and I arrived in Viñales with muscle tension. I am unsure if negotiating for no more than two people in back would have been possible.

Returning to Havana where we would board the plane to head back, I did not have the energy for another shared taxi trip, so we opted to take a bus from Viazul. They had discussed rather negatively about these buses to us. However, they were highly comfortable, punctual, and swift. The cost was 12 CUC.

OUR ACCOMMODATION IN VIÑALES

We do not recommend our private house in Viñales for the rationale I specified in this post.

They deceived us and sought to sell us bottled water from the tap. I recognize that it was a specific scenario and that in most of the homes, the proprietors worry regarding the convenience and health of their guests, but in any circumstance, I suggest purchasing the best protection to travel to Cuba or perhaps one-way protection for travel, if you’re going to be journeying for an extended period of time.

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However, I suggest considering any private homes in the center of Viñales equipped with roof terraces. This is quite common in town and you can enjoy breakfast with nice views. Also, I would recommend dining at least once at your private home. Being located in the countryside, ingredients are more varied than in cities, and you can savor good local food on your roof.

Here’s the map with all points of interest listed in this Guide of Things to Do in Viñales.