Havana – Everything You Have to Do and Travel Tips

Before commencing with this complete guide for top activities to partake in Havana let’s place this city into context.

Everlasting puddles that do not evaporate. Street vendors operating around the clock. Dark smoke emitted by Cadillacs from the 1950s and neoclassical facades deteriorating. A dozen people gazed at the balconies watching time pass, and another dozen around the sidewalks. Groups of children playing catch and marbles. Discussions about any trivial topic in every corner. The smell of the salt interrupted by the Malecón seawall… Few cities can come to captivate and frustrate so much at the same time, like this museum imprisoned in the time called HAVANA.

And this city leaves no one indifferent. Everything seems defined as either brightness or decay, grandeur or deterioration, and black or white. What cannot be denied, are the countless treasures found within those lights and shadows. Some are obvious while others hidden, which we will seek to uncover through this Havana Travel Guide.

GUIDE for top THINGS TO DO IN HAVANA 

If you visit Cuba, it is very probable that you will fly into Havana. The capital of the country is a chaotic place that you will love and dislike in equal measure. With this complete guide, we will help you enjoy this city.

You can explore the following sections of the guide:

• Touring Old Havana – Complete guides to the 3 main districts, including all attractions and activities:

→ Old Havana:The heart of Havana. Here you will find the major attractions, buildings, plazas and historic places of the city. Becoming lost in its streets is guaranteed in these lively and one-of-a-kind scenes.

→ Central Havana:The neighborhood of everyday citizens, where Cubans make their daily lives apart from the tourist commotion of Old Havana. This is the perfect place to blend in with locals and soak in their lifestyle.

→ Vedado:The newest and remotest neighborhood. The disorderly streets give way to the structures in a grid pattern, with grand hotels dating back to the American crime syndicate of the 1950s.

• Lodging recommendations inHavana.

• Where one may dine in Havana.

• Means of transport aroundHavana.

• General tipsto enjoy the city.

• Photography Tips.

TRAVELING HAVANA

OLD HAVANA

In all cities where there was a memorable time, it usually started in a specific region or neighborhood. In Havana`s case, this neighborhood is known as the Old Havana area.

The roads are narrow, and among the buildings we encountered some of the most ancient ones of the city. In spite of the flaking exteriors, we can see authentic baroque style gems and Art Deco style. Walking around Old Havana is like taking a step back in time. Imagine the city during a period in which all was grandeur, a rough diamond growing at a rate far greater than it could handle.

However, entrance to this open-air museum does come at a cost that is not declared upfront: the exploitation of visitors is widespread throughout every corner. Eateries, local restaurants and accommodations within charge prices immensly higher than other areas of the city. Large crowds can feel overwhelming and one might sense being a ” dollar with legs” more so here than any other region on the island.

Despite everything, Old Havana ultimately enthralled us like a magnet. We frequented this area during the 4 days we spent in the city.

Cathedral Square

Unlike many cities, Cathedral Square is the newest plaza in Old Havana. Pure baroque style, we can find the Cathedral of San Cristobal of Havana, with its famous asymmetrical towers inside.

In the plaza itself we will not see any other points of interest apart from the Colonial Museum.

Adjacent to the square we find the famous Callejón del Chorro with the delicious paladar (restaurant) of Doña Eutimia and Calle Empedrado with the well known Bodeguita del Medio.

BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO

Despite being a very popular location, since it was our initial time in Havana, we did not want to overlook the Bodeguita del Medio. Even when traveling with restricted resources, making a visit there at minimum once is something required to do in Havana.

Renowned for its mojitos and famous guests such as Hemingway and many others, the initial impression could be disappointing. As anticipated, the location was diminutive and overtly aimed towards tourists.

To avoid overcrowding, we opted to arrive at the location at 11 o`clock in the morning to have our inaugural mojitos on the island. Though the mojito (5 CUC) did not seem exceptionally remarkable, we must acknowledge the ambiance of the bodega was unrivaled. The server expertly prepared each mojito sequentially as if engaged in a dance, combined with the live music, negated any regret over our visit. When the band took a song request, we inquired aboutChan Chan. In that instant, we felt truly immersed in the culture of Cuba.

PLAZA DE ARMAS

Right next to the Cathedral Square we found the oldest square in the city; Plaza de Armas. The highlight of this square is the expansive book market, along with some stalls of old second-hand relics.

The available publications will appear identical across all stalls. This is because works require official governmental approval subsequent to the revolution transpiring in 1959 in order to circulate. In spite of propagating certain viewpoints, there exist artistic gems such as the drawing album series chronicling the Cuban uprising and the photographic anthologies of Korda. We did not procure any books, but came to an agreement with a merchant to exchange them for medicines.

At one end of the plaza is the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, one of the oldest fortresses in America, where there is a nautical museum.

PLAZA VIEJA

Another one of the old plazas of Havana that was initially intended for military exercises. There we can see one of the most striking architectural areas of Havana, with restored and colorful baroque, neoclassical and Art Nouveau style buildings.

Within the plaza, there are also several museums such as the notable Photo Library of Cuba and the peculiar interesting playing-card museum.

Additionally, on one corner of the plaza is La Factoría, a craft brewery with a large terrace and live music where you can refresh from the heat of Havana.

PLAZA DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS

Within the region closest to the shore, we find this plaza. There one can find the Fuente de los Leones fountain and the church and monastery of San Francisco de Asís. The plaza also holds the Rum Museum and the house museum devoted to Alexander Humboldt, a renowned German scientist known for his work on the island.

El FLORIDITA

El Floridita was the origin of the Daiquiri cocktail and, similar to La Bodeguita del Medio, it was renowned for keeping the renowned Hemingway well hydrated.

While not inexpensive at 6 CUC, the daiquiris did not particularly stand out as exceptional to us. Nonetheless, it was one of those locales we aimed to experience at minimum once.

El Floridita is spacious with many tables to sit, and has a 1950s style atmosphere. It has a small stage where there is always live music and a figure of the man who made it renowned.

RAFAEL TREJO’s BOXING GYM

An additional one of the areas we visited was Rafael Trejo’s Boxing Gym. Boxing is one of the national sports on the island, observing real training is something you must do in Havana.

The gym is a historic location where great Olympic champions were trained. The coaches in turn take advantage of the situation by trying to charge fees to see the children training.

Almacenes SAN JOSÉ ARTISANS

Another location we came upon in the southern area of Old Havana was the Almacenes de San José Artisans. While advertised as an artisan product market, we found most stalls sold similar souvenirs, so we do not think this is a must-see stop

OLD WAREHOUSE OF WOOD And TOBACCO BREWERY

Just a few steps from the Almacenes, there is a brewery installed in an old warehouse of wood and tobacco. The value for the money did not seem good. However, the interior decoration is very cool as they show a lot of instruments used in the brewing process.

OTHER CORNERS OF OLD HAVANA

For us, the true riches of Old Havana were not in its primary monuments or in its plazas, but rather in the streets. Ordered in a grid layout, most are lengthy, straight and narrow routes. Within them, you will find an assortment of establishments ranging from typical souvenir shops and eateries to markets, hair salons, mechanical workshops and schools.

If you pass through them repeatedly, it is inevitable to learn the names: Lamparilla, O ́Reilly, Amargura, Habana, Aguacate, Compostela, Muralla… they are exhibited everywhere on both regular and unusual things.

Within them also stands the pedestrian Calle Obispo, acting as the primary artery of Old Havana. On this street, we can discover the primary tourist shops, with a CADECA and an ETECSA internet point between them.

CENTRO HABANA

If Old Havana is the historical heart of Havana, Centro Habana would serve as the driving force behind the city.

In Centro Habana we will see monuments and attractions such as Paseo de Prado, the Capitolio or the Revolution Museum. However, we will also see zones and spaces outside the tourist world, where people are employed in their everyday life and where we can breathe a much more authentic and genuine Cuba.

Centro Habana will forever be a noteworthy place for us, most notably Calle Industria, where we lodged in the private homes.

REVOLUTION MUSEUM

In a building as historic as the old presidential palace, the Revolution Museum, is one of those iconic and unique places where experiencing it is definitely worthwhile.

The Revolution was the most consequential event in Cuban history, so you cannot miss any museums in its capital that addresses this topic. Without the revolution, many aspects of Cuba as we know it would be different.

In the museum you will find exhibits from rooms about the revolutionary beginnings, to several rooms that discuss battles of the revolution itself. In addition, a lot of personal objects of the main fighters are displayed.

The core ideas presented at the museum emphasize the financial and societal accomplishments achieved through the communist system, particularly.

We found all the components of the museum very intriguing, some even amusing like the so-called “Corner of the Cretins”. There are giant drawn caricatures of Bush father and son, Batista and Ronald Reagan.

PASEO DE PRADO / JOSE MARTÍ

Acting as the main route connecting the coast from the Malecón to Central Park, Paseo de Jose Marti (mostly known by its previous revolutionary name Paseo del Prado) is the primary avenue of the city.

Throughout the daytime hours, there are multiple stalls showcasing paintings, antiquities, photographs, etc., while later afternoon and evening times, it becomes a popular and relaxing area to take a walk.

PARQUE CENTRAL

Strategically situated just in the heart of Havana, between Capitolio, Paseo de Prado and Old Havana, this small park is also encircled by other landmarks like the Gran Teatro de la Habana and the neoclassical Hotel Inglaterra.

CAPITOL

Undoubtedly, the building is among the grandest and most iconic in Havana. It was constructed following the First World War, taking advantage of Cuba`s economic boom from the sale of sugar

Inevitably it brought Washington to mind, and originally it served as the seat of the Cuban Congress. After the revolution, it was recognized as the headquarters of the national library of science and technology.

During our visit, renovations to the dome were ongoing. The refurbishment has taken so long that the reopening date remains uncertain. Perhaps you will have better luck timing your trip to view the fully restored structure!

In front of the Capitolio in Havana, buildings with brightly colored, renewed façades line the square. This particular postcard view is likely one of the most photographed locations in the city.

Chinatown

Chinatown is another of those unique rarities of Havana, that you cannot stop exploring.

The origins can be traced back to the start of the 20th century when the busy Cuban labor market and unique farms were active. Because of this, many Chinese immigrants went to the island and thus established in that community. Soon, it transformed into the largest Chinatown across all of South America.

What is strange is that there are no Chinese individuals presently living on the island. As one might expect, they departed the island due to the economic crisis and revolution that occurred.

A few years ago, the administration made a locale reclamation plan, along these lines you can see the huge Asiatic stupa they constructed, likewise as street names in Chinese and other decorative components.

EL MALECÓN

Though featured in many films, the Malecon (promenade) may dissatisfy you. The initial feeling is of a bare coastline, of concrete lacking adornments, palm trees, or even seats; just streetlights and cement for five miles.

It was constructed over several periods beginning from the Castle of San Salvador de la Punta to the neighborhood of Vedado where it now reaches.

This boardwalk would go unnoticed anywhere else globally. However, in Havana, how it has become an icon is no accident.

Throughout the day, it is a means of transport ride and a wide road full of vehicles producing lots of noise and pollution. However, as the sun begins descending towards the horizon of Vedado and the Hotel Nacional, the Malecon becomes filled with local residents, emerging as a central hub.

One of the primary activities you must partake in when visiting Havana is leisurely strolling along the waterfront at dusk.

CALLEJÓN DE HAMMEL

Away from Centro Habana, we come upon another of the most intriguing places found in the city: the Callejón de Hammel .

It is a small alley entirely influenced by the Afro-Cuban culture.

The undertaking was initiated in the 1990s by the painter and sculptor Salvador González Escalona; an eccentric Cuban artist who has since brought life and light to this alleyway. Therein, you will find murals, sculptures, phrases, poems, etc. with a complete relationship to the Afro-Cuban religion and the values of the island.

We can also find a bar and an underground room where there are several pictures of the artist for purchase. When we went, we were able to see Salvador completely immersed in one of his works.

We went there during the week; but if your schedule permits, go on Sunday, since live Afro-Cuban music does not cease in the alley on that day.

VEDADO

The area of Vedado was perhaps the area that we investigated less, we overlooked it since there were certain places that we wanted very much to visit.

This neighborhood arose later compared to Old Havana and Centro Habana; in that era of splendor when they modeled their design after the American conception of grand avenues, hotels, and Cadillacs.

It was historically recognized for all the influence it wielded during its time of splendor in which it arose. The setting in which it developed was quite different from the post-revolutionary period: cabarets, casinos, large hotels, American mafia management, etc.

COPPELIA ice cream

We entered a neighborhood after crossing the Malecón. Then, we continued our route by ascending along the 23rd Avenue where you will find the renowned University of Havana and the well known Coppelia Ice Cream shop, famous primarily for the film “Fresa y Chocolate”. They offer three flavors which vary daily, and even though it has a status for having long lines, we went at midday and they were ready to assist us.

NECRÓPOLIS DE CRISTOBAL

After visiting Coppelia we proceed along Avenida 23 until arriving at the Graveyard of Christopher Columbus. The entrance fee to the Necropolis was 4 CUC. The most notable feature here is the grave dedicated to firefighters.

Revolution PLAZA

After passing through the Necropolis, we arrive at the Revolution Plaza. At 72000 square meters, it is among the most expansive in the world. However, there is nothing there except for the statue honoring Jose Marti and the famed building with the relief of Che, accompanied with another relief of the rebel Camilo Cienfuegos in a nearby building since 2009.

However, we are obliged to contextualize this place, particularly following the Revolution. Here, envisioning thousands upon thousands congregating to listen to Fidel Castro`s perpetual speeches or the parades occurring each May first.

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST IN VEDADO

Within the neighborhood of Vedado we had two impactful sights to see:

• The National Hotel of Cuba. It is here where Fidel Castro governed in his initial two years of leadership after the Revolution.
• The House of Song of Miramar. The other house of music in Havana, in Centro Habana, was undergoing construction and we could not view it either. Nevertheless this was a minor since we had intended to visit the house of music of Trinidad at which better testimonials had been given to us; specially of the one in Trinidad.

OTHER top THINGS TO DO IN HAVANA

SHOWS

Havana is renowned for its “Shows” – live music and dance performances have been taking place in the city for decades. Some are highly popular and expensive like the Tropicana, while others may be less spectacular but more reasonably priced.

We opted to go to Guajirito, where the performance cost was 30 CUC including 3 drinks. In the shows, you can pick either a combination of meal and performance or just the performance alone. The dinners are strongly advised against, since they are pricey yet renown for poor quality. If a meal was desired the price was 50 CUC.

The Guajirito show features past performers from the renowned Buena Vista Social Club. While the acts originally stuck closely to well-known songs and dances, the artists gradually started engaging more with the crowd. By the end, all of the audience were up on stage dancing conga together with the entertainers.

THE CAÑONAZO

This ritual is performed daily at 9 pm, from the Fortress of San Carlos. It symbolizes the cannon fire conducted in the 18th century daily like a signal to close the doors of the city. This was because at that time Havana was a walled city during wartime.

To go there, use of a taxi or bus is required as transfer through an underground tunnel traversing to the fortress is needed where only vehicles can circulate.

WHERE TO STAY IN HAVANA

Within Havana, various accommodation options and pricing exist. As we previously noted in the Guide to organizing a Cuba venture, during our stay we solely lodged in Casas Particulares. This remains the best choice for budget travelers exploring Havana.

Most visitors want to stay in Old Havana. However, the lodging here is much more expensive and older – costs ranged between 30 and 40 CUC.

In Centro Habana there are more affordable and newer housing options. Prices do not exceed 30 CUC. We stayed in two different houses in this area and it was a totally successful experience. The rooms had their own bathroom, air conditioning and comfortable beds.

We definitely recommend residing in Centro Habana.

WHERE TO EAT IN HAVANA

In Havana, numerous cafes and restaurants are available ranging from very low-cost basic meals to higher end establishments where more significant sums are necessary.

In the local eateries, the cuisine is quite basic and repetitive. The staple is rice, beans and chicken or pork on occasions. The positive aspect is the low price paid. In addition to the restaurants, there are locals by the street serving coffee, ice creams, bakery items, etc. where locals frequent and at which rates are also quite low. In these places, you can pay with the national currency CUP.

A paladar is a privately owned restaurant. The idea is something akin to a family home where you can eat homemade local cuisine prepared by the family that lives there. Many of them, especially in Havana, have become renowned restaurants over the years.

We alternated between paladares, more “touristic” restaurants, and local eateries.

DOÑA EUTIMIA

Doña Eutimia is located in Callejón del Chorro, next to the cathedral. We were advised to dine there, and truly the quality of the cuisine was very good. At this paladar, we savored an authentic Cuban rice dish and other delicacies for no more than 25 CUC for two people.

EL CHANCHULLERO

Among everything, our most favored place is El Chanchullero. It’s a building with three levels, looking much more contemporary, gritty and rebellious than the others.

The initial image upon entrance displays a phrase inviting one to linger. You see “Hemingway has never been here” clearly mocking and contrasting the large, expensive and touristy Bodeguita del Medio and Floridita.

The pricing options were extremely cost-effective but not inferior quality. The cuisine was delectable and the mojito seemed better than the one at La Bodeguita in our opinion, and not to mention, at half the cost.

The atmosphere is younger, and while mainly frequented by visitors, locals can also be spotted. The downside is sometimes it`s difficult to find a table, especially on the top floor terrace.

O’REILLY AND EL DEL FRENTE

We specifically enjoyed O`Reilly for beverages and snacks. It is on the street with the equivalent name. They forever offer potatoes with pickles as a very tasty starter. If it is complete, or you want something a little cheaper with the identical quality, go to El del Frente (translates to “the one in the front”). The location is only known as that and they are possessed by the identical people as their neighbour in the front, never better expressed. The menu is almost identical.

JACQUELINE FUMERO CAFÉ

While we typically consumed our morning meal within the private dwelling where we remained each night, one day we opted to try an alternative. We selected the Jacqueline Fumero Café, situated adjacent to the Museum of Revolution. Therein we partook of a breakfast styling itself after the cuisine of Paris for a very reasonable cost.

TRANSPORTATION IN HAVANA

In Havana we can find all modes that were referenced in the Guide to prepare for your travel toCuba: formal Taxis, shared taxis, bicitaxis, cocotaxis, buses, and so on. Excursions in Cadillacs are quite common in Havana.

Undoubtedly, the mode we discovered as most novel and authentic was by bicycle, particularly for exploring Vedado, since the neighborhood is fairly distant from downtown to cover on foot.

The common method is to tour this neighborhood by taxi or on the typical tourist bus that stops at sites of interest. However, we aimed to try something different and decided to rent bicycles to explore this part of the city at our own pace. This was not simple in Havana even though it may seem quite straightforward in any other city globally. There are hardly any bicycles available, and if any, extremely old ones.

HAVANA BIKE

Near our private residence, we met an individual who rented bicycles for 15 CUC daily. Surprisingly the bikes were new and fully equipped. The individual had a wonderful opportunity to study in Germany and brought back several bicycles from there.

If you want to try this fun and different experience of visiting Havana by bicycle, do not hesitate to contact Yuri through his Facebook page. You can also write to him at [email protected] or [email protected].

The bicycles are at Consulado Street No61, apartment 2, between Genios and Refugio Street. Centro Habana.

Here you can find a video of our experience biking in Havana.

GENERAL TIPS TO ENJOY HAVANA

Havana is a vibrant and very crowded city. The amount of time you want to commit to exploring depends on many individual factors and tastes. We felt 3 days would be the bare minimum needed to visit the city and adjust to its pace. From your first hours in Havana to your last day, there are endless ways you can experience and see what the city has to offer. This is common for all destinations, but it is intensified in Havana.

We trust these recommendations will help you to adapt to Havana as soon as feasible.

WHERE TO EXCHANGE MONEY IN HAVANA

You will surely fly into Jose Martí airport in Havana. Once there, you will be unable to use foreign currency to pay, so you will need to have Convertible Cuban pesos (CUC).

We recommend NOT conducting unnecessary transactions at the airport solely for paying taxi fare to the city, plus a small additional amount. If you wish to avoid starting your trip on the wrong foot, do not fall victim to the same trap as 90% of travelers. The exchange rate is greatly disadvantageous at the airport. You will save a lot by exchanging most of your money at the downtown CADECA location on Obispo Street.

HOW TO AVOID TROUBLE

Cuba is one of the most secure countries we have ever been to. The feeling is of complete reassurance both day and night.

However, even though chances of robbery involving violence are nearly nonexistent, care must be taken regarding theft due to carelessness and scams exploiting the roguish image to take a few pesos. Although possible anywhere, it is exacerbated in Havana as they become used to tourist crowds.

Ultimately, we will provide you with some suggestions, some of which are covered in our Canadian Rockies article. I recommend reviewing before continuing with this text.

While Cuba is viewed as safe generally, I advise purchasing round-the-world trip travel protection. You will also receive a 5% discount for being a reader.

PHOTOGRAPHy TIPS

Whether with a DSLR camera, a compact camera, or simply the mobile camera, Havana offers endless photographic possibilities, as far as Street Photography is concerned. Photographing its life is at the top of the list of things that you have to do in Havana.

The neoclassical and art nouveau structures, the Cadillacs of the 50s, the colors of the streets and peoples` clothing, groups of children playing in the road … Everything offers a perfect frame to take pictures with not only great beauty and contrasts but also images which tell stories.

Havana provides with photographs with “soul” and not the simple documentary shots that are usually seen in the vast majority of travel reports.

The foremost and most important recommendation you ought to take into account is that Havana is a city with a lot happening, the speed of it is exponential to its beauty. In the blinking of an eye, a scene completely changes.

TIPS FOR ANY DEVICEs:

• Keep your senses alert and be vigilant. Events unfold very rapidly and with close observation you will see sights and stories worth witnessing. Have the camera and mobile phone close at hand always.

• Do not just stay within the touristy or well known sites. The capacity that Havana has to astonish has no limits and there are photographic opportunities on every corner.

• Do not hesitate to mingle and converse with people. Talk to them and ask to take their portrait. Cubans are quite friendly and welcoming, offering readily without reservation.

IF YOU USE A RÉFLEX CAMERA:

• It is not necessary to always shoot in manual mode. As we have mentioned, the action is very fast so selecting the priority mode as open or automatic can prove to be useful.

• Concerning lenses, focal lengths in the range of 20 to 70 offer the most practical options.

• The tripod is not absolutely necessary for such a changing environment. We only used it for one of the sunsets at the Malecón.
• While improvisation and visualization carry weight, don`t neglect planning locations you wish to explore – Flickr, 500px or Instagram can aid such endeavor.

HAVANA MAP

Havana offers unique moments worth exploring and experiencing due to its strong identity. There appears little middle ground in terms of what it offers. You will likely come to either love or dislike it intensely, but living the experience there at least once is undoubtedly worthwhile.