Where to Stay in Hakone

Our Favorite Hotels in Hakone

A 5-star recommendation is: Suishoen ryokan
• 4-Star: Byakudan Hotel
• 3-Star: Villa Bizan Hotel
• Ryokan: Hananoyado Fukuya
• For Families: the Yumoto Fujiyahotel provides lodging and other services for families visiting Hakone.
• Hotel ideal for Couples: Odakyu Hotel de Yama
• For Thermal Springs: Fujiya
• Near Odawara Station: Travelers could look at the Tenseien Annex hotel in Hakone.

The Best Areas to Stay in Hakone

Hakone is one of Japan’s top tourist destinations and a short high-speed rail ride west of Tokyo. The beautiful region hosts part of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, filled with forest-covered mountains, mountain lakes, and hot springs. Hakone comprises seven villages in or surrounding Mount Hakone, the large volcano. But there is no need to worry – its last eruption was in 1170. There are two huge, ancient collapsed calderas, vastly over 10 miles across, and it is impossible to gain any sense of their scale on the ground (the terrain just appears surrounded by mountains.)

Mount Fuji lies farther north in a separate section of the national park, but Hakone is renowned for its mesmerizing views of the iconic mountain. Hotels dot Hakone and can fill up during peak cherry blossom seeing, autumn foliage, and major Japanese holiday periods.

The Hakone “Loop”

Most visitors go through Hakone using the “Circuit” or “Loop” (called the Golden Route in Japanese) which involves five types of transportation from Hakone-Yumoto (or, additionally, Odawara); train, cable car, ropeway, boat, and bus. Though completing the loop in a single day is possible, fully appreciating the area`s attractions and charms over three days is much more worthwhile. If undertaking the full circuit, purchasing one of the featured passes listed below provides better value than buying each component separately, especially since the cable cars are quite expensive to use individually.

a series of photos showing different types of electronic devices

The “Loop” Route

The Hakone Tozan Line reaches its terminus at Gōra (35min), where the Hakone Tozan Cable Car (genuinely a funicular railway) ambles up the slope to Sōunzan (10min). From here, you switch to the Hakone Ropeway (which is a cable car) to the top of the crater at Ōwakudani, then down to Lake Ashi at Tōgendai (30min without stopping at Ōwakudani). Then you board the strangely themed “pirate” ships across the lake (30min) to Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone, where you can take buses back to Hakone-Yumoto (35min).

Trains from Tokyo to Odawara

  • Odakyū-line trains travel directly from Shinjuku in Tokyo to Odawara, covered by the Hakone Pass – approximately 90 minutes
  • Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Odawara – 35 minutes.

Trains from Tokyo to Hakone-Yumoto

  • “Romancecar” express train runs to Hakone-Yumoto – 80 minutes.

Where to Stay in Hakone

The relatively small city of Odawara provides a convenient yet less atmospheric place to stay. It rests along the primary JR rail and bullet train route connecting Tokyo and the cities of Nagoya and Kyoto. Traveling from Odawara adds only a quarter of an hour each direction to your day (compared to Hakone-Yumoto), and in the evening you`ll have significantly more dining, shopping and entertainment prospects. Odawara Castle signifies one of Japan`s most historically important fortresses, though the present structure was rebuilt during the 1960s.

Traditionally, visitors to the region begin their journey in Hakone-Yumoto, a small village at the bottom of the Haya River Gorge providing an ample selection of lodging, usually completely booked. It serves as a suitable base for exploring the area as the starting and ending point of the “Loop” (Golden Route), but the village itself is not particularly attractive, and there are much more desirable places to stay higher up in the mountains.

Hakone Tozan Line trains and vehicles slowly travel up the Haya River Gorge to Miyanoshita and Kowakidani, home to iconic hotels like the Fujiya and tranquil hot spring resorts. The Okada Museum of Art and the vast Hakone Open-Air Museum are excellent art attractions.

The mountain railway ends at the tiny village of Gōra, another hub for boutique hotels, high on the slopes above the Haya River Gorge. Hakone Gōra Park is renowned for its blossoming flowers, while the Hakone Museum of Art shows ancient Japanese ceramics and porcelain.

The districts of Kiga and Miyagino offer more secluded accommodation options accessible by bus, situated on either side of the Haya River below Gōra for a tranquil atmosphere.

a train on the tracks with smoke coming out of it

From Gōra, the Hakone Ropeway carried visitors up to Sōunzan, where a transfer was made to the Hakone Cable Car heading up to Ōwakudani, the highest point on the route and renowned for its geothermal activity and views of Mount Fuji, but there was no place to stay up here.

The cable car continues downward on the western slopes to Lake Ashi, a breathtaking crater lake that, for many, is the highlight of Hakone. It’s feasible to lodge in one of numerous beautifully situated hotels in Tōgendai, the transport hub at the northern end, Hakone-en in the center, or at Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone, at the busier southern end. Hakone-machi is home to the Hakone Sekisho Museum, with its authentic replica of a 17th-century guard post, and the Onshi-Hakone Park, with spectacular views of Mount Fuji.

One of Moto-Hakone’s most popular spots is the Hakone Shrine, where long lines form for visitors wanting photos at the famous “water gate” on the lake. From here, you can hike along the Old Tōkaidō Highway back towards Hakone-Yumoto or take public transportation down the Sukumo River Valley, where several upscale hotels and hot spring resorts can be found, passing through the craft village of Hatajuku as well.

Finally, the highly regarded Sengokuhara area lies north of Gōra and the Loop, offering a much quieter experience and access to some of the region’s most acclaimed museums: the Pola Museum of Art, the Lalique Museum Hakone, and the Hakone Venetian Glass Museum.

Hakone Hot Springs

For many visitors (especially domestic Japanese tourists), Hakone is primarily a resort for soaking in natural hot springs. Depending on how one evaluates them, there are around 17 sources of springs in Hakone, comprising everything from alkaline thermal waters to springs containing sodium chloride and calcium-sulfuric acid. Most have been channeled into hot spring resort facilities (onsen), but a couple (like Dogashima) remain untamed and untapped.

The 17 thermal springs are: Yumoto, Tōnosawa, Ōhiradai, Miyanoshita, Dogashima, Kiga, Sokukura, Ninohira, Kowakudani, Gōra, Miyagino, Sengokuhara, Ubako, Ashinoyu, Yunohanazawa, Takogawa, and Lake Ashinoko.

The Hakone Tourist Information Center, open daily from nine am to five forty-five pm, is located directly across the street from Hakone-Yumoto Station. For more details, please visit hakone-japan.com or the useful resource hakonenavi.jp.

The Hakone “Loop” Travel Passes

a train on the tracks at a train station

Investing in one of the numerous travel passes covering the Hakone area will generally save you money, particularly if you aim to travel the “Loop.” Most passes cover all transportation and provide reduced entrance fees to some attractions. If you want to hike or just take buses in Hakone, the passes may not be worth it.

  • Hakone Freepass – this includes unlimited use of the entire Loop route for options lasting two or three days, as well as a return trip on the Odakyū line from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Odawara Station. You can purchase passes at stations throughout the Hakone area such as Shinjuku, Odawara, and Hakone-Yumoto, with the prices varying depending on the location of purchase. For example, a two day pass is ¥6,100/US$45 from Shinjuku but only ¥5,000/US$35 from Odawara.
  • Hakone Tozan Train 1-Day Pass ( ¥1580) – if exploring destinations along the Hakone Tozan Line (between Odawara and Gōra).
  • Fuji Hakone Three-Day Pass (¥9,340) – If travelers intend to journey between Hakone and the Fuji Five Lakes area (or vice versa). It offers similar benefits to the Hakone Freepass plus transportation within the Fuji Five Lakes region (passengers must change buses in Gotemba to transfer between the Hakone area and Fuji Five Lakes).

The Best Places to Stay in Hakone

a train crossing a bridge over a lush green forest

Best Areas in Hakone for…

  • The optimal areas to stay near Hakone for sightseeing are Gōra or Hakone-Yumoto in the heart of the scenic region.

    • Hakone is spread throughout the region without a clear center, so where one stays mainly depends on their interests and accommodation budget. It is possible to move around and stay in two or more different areas, but if aiming for a single base to explore the entire region, centrally situated Gōra provides the best option.

    The location has excellent transportation links to other parts of the park, to Hakone-Yumoto via the Hakone Tozan Railway, and to Lake Ashi through the Hakone Tozan Cable Car and Hakone Ropeway. Buses run down to the Haya River Gorge and north to Sengokuhara. Some of the finest restaurants in the area are within walking distance, along with Hakone Gōra Park, the Hakone Museum of Art, and the Hakone Open-Air Museum.

    Accommodations here are of a higher standard than further down the valley, but there are still reasonably priced options available too. The main downside is that beyond the tiny village center, everywhere is located on a fairly steep incline.

    If staying only one or two days, Hakone-Yumoto is not a poor alternative, with a wide range of accommodations (with many budget options) and restaurants, conveniently located at the foot of the Haya River Gorge and at the start/end of the “Loop” around the park. Transportation is good here – it’s the main bus and train hub for the region – but for longer stays, one will likely become tired of the journey up and down the mountain—one and a half hours.

  • Premier Region to Stay on a Budget: Hakone-Yumoto or Miyanoshitaa tall building with a street sign on top of it

    Convenient for transport and services (shops and restaurants), Hakone-Yumoto is the gateway to the region and offers some of the best value accommodations: K’s House,Guesthouse Azito,Oumiya, and Yumoto Station Hotel MIRAHAKONE are all superb selections (book well in advance). Even the larger resort-style hotels such as the Yumoto Fujiya Hotel are typically much cheaper than those further along the valley (and are especially suitable for families).

    For those seeking a more tranquil atmosphere with personality, consider visiting the Miyanoshita area further up the valley accessible by train. Guesthouses like Hakone Onsen Guesthouse Tsutaya,HakoneHOSTEL1914, and Irori Guesthouse TENMAKU typically provide excellent value in this upper region.

  • Most Romantic Spots: Lake Ashi or Tōnosawa (Hakone-Yumoto)

    The serene vistas of Lake Ashi are unrivaled, with piercing blue waters encircled by forested slopes and the iconic snowcapped peak of Mount Fuji towering in the distance, further accentuated by trails of vermillion torii gates. Private boat tours provide chances to experience the bucolic shoreline villages more intimately once mass appeal wanes, where some of the region’s finest ryokans and hotels await alongside onsen overlooking the placid panoramas.

    The inn located at Hanaori can experience high volumes of guests but offers some of the finest panoramas found anywhere in the park. The Odakyu Hotel de Yama and Prince Hakone Ashinoko are lavish lodgings located on the shore of the lake. Japanese-style inns like Hananoyado Fukuya and Washintei Hogetsu provide luxurious Japanese hospitality and a true sense of tranquility.

    If you prefer lodging closer to the central transportation hub in Hakone-Yumoto, the riverside village of Tōnosawa (just one stop away or a short walk on foot) offers a surprisingly tranquil atmosphere. Comprised of a string of intimate inns, aged wooden buildings, and ryokans lining the densely forested Haya River Gorge, Kinnotake Tōnosawa stands out as our top selection in the area.

  • Best Areas for Food and Restaurants: Gōra, Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashia woman standing in front of a food stand

    Hakone is not particularly celebrated for its cuisine. However, if remaining in a ryokan, you’ll usually be provided with high-quality food selections as part of your residency. The bigger resort inns also have good restaurants. Otherwise, there are a few small clusters of restaurants scattered throughout Hakone.

    Gōra is a tiny, peaceful village with some good dining. Coffee Camp is excellent for a Western breakfast or coffee, while Tamura Ginkatsu-tei is renowned for its “tofu tonkatsu” (tofu pork chops) and is worth the inevitable wait for a table.

    Farther up the slope is the Itoh Dining by NOBU, specializing in pricey yet succulent wagyu beefsteak, and the Gora Brewery with homemade beers and tasty Japanese snack foods (like wagyu dumplings). Nearby Gōra Station, there’s Mami Kitchen for cheaper tempura and noodles, and the Hakone Tent Bar for beers and a Western-style menus.

    One train stop away at Chōkoku no Mori, Hakone Kappei provides excellent sushi, while a treehouse-like Café Woody (decorated with Toy Story memorabilia) offers basic pizzas and burgers.

    Hakone-Yumoto also offers a variety of quality dining establishments. The lunch buffet at the Yumoto Fujiya Hotel usually delivers excellent value, while Hatsuhana Soba Honten serves up decent soba noodles in an antique Japanese building overlooking the river. Naokichi represents the premier spot to sample the regional specialty of yubadon (soymilk skin with fish broth on rice), part of an excellent tofu-centered set menu. Kinosuke does well with grilled seafood, while Coco-Hakone focuses on chicken (try the blackened, crispy “lava chicken”).

    On Lake Ashi, many menus highlight trout, black bass, and tiny Japanese smelt (“wakasagi”). Daimasa Honten in Hakone-machi is a reliable choice. Nearby, Tatsumi Garden cooks excellent ramen. The Japanese-style fried chicken at Hakone Karaage Karatto (in Moto-Hakone) is also tasty, while no-frills Hiroshiya serves all the classics (soba, ramen, katsudon), and lake fish.

  • Best Areas Off the Beaten Path: Hatajuku and the Sukumo Valleya wooden bench in the middle of a forest

    Hakone can get very crowded, but you’ll escape the groups walking along the Old Tōkaidō Highway Trail between Moto-Hakone and the Sukumo River Canyon. Though the trail does not stray far from the main road, it is often enclosed by forest, with glimpses of mist-cloaked mountains through the trees.

    The incredibly atmospheric Amazake Tea House along the route is rarely busy, and further down lies Hatajuku, a tranquil village most renowned for its master woodworkers (several handicraft shops exist here). Though buses and cars ply the road, it remains largely free of the crowds and tour groups common elsewhere in Hakone.

    There are no hotels located inside the village itself. The Odakyu Hotel Hatsuhana and Kijitei Hoeiso are wonderfully remote hotels further down the valley. Though it`s only 10 minutes by taxi or bus to Hakone-Yumoto station, it feels like another world.

  • Best Neighborhoods for Families: Hakone-Yumoto or Sengokuhara

    Families traveling with kids may want to avoid the hassle of hauling luggage up the mountain and establish their base at Hakone-Yumoto instead. This location is convenient for transportation with a suitable selection of dining, shopping, and lodging options. Travelers can find reasonably priced family rooms at the Yumoto Station Hotel MIRAHAKONE, situated at the heart of the village (complete with an excellent Italian restaurant), or the Yumoto Fujiya Hotel. Both locations are within walking distance of Forest Adventure Hakone. This spot offers four distinct treetop course options, a zipline, all suitable for kids, and a complimentary shuttle bus service.

    Also a convenient train ride upwards lies Chōkoku no Mori Station providing access to the Hakone Open Air Museum. There, children can interact through massive works: the rainbow hued “Woods of Net” (somewhat of a gigantic hammock) for those 12 and up and the Symphonic Sculpture climbable through a spiral staircase.

    The Hakone Kowakien Yunessun (located a bit further up the mountain) is also great for families, with various hot spring pools and water slides.

    Families who enjoy outdoor activities could consider Sengokuhara (see below), an area where there are larger and quieter hotels (like the Sengokuhara Prince Hotel). The Hakone Venetian Glass Museum is also enjoyable for kids, and it’s a relatively easy bus ride to Gotemba Premium Outlets, an expansive shopping center.

  • Top region to reside for outdoor pursuits: Sengokuhara.

    • It’s possible to hike all through the Hakone area, and you can kayak, and fish in Lake Ashi, but Sengokuhara is suitable for outdoor activities. With beautiful open spaces like the Sengokuhara Susuki Grass Fields, there are some superb hikes and usually less occupied than elsewhere in Hakone. One of the best is the hike up Mount Kintoki (which can get crowded on weekends), offering sensational views of Mt Fuji to the north and a couple of teahouses at the summit. From there, you can walk along the Hakone caldera ridge to Mt Nagao (about 35 minutes) and down to the Otome Pass (another 10 minutes.) You can also continue walking along the ridge to Lake Ashi.

    Sengokuhara serves as the base for Hakone Mountain Ripper, a local mountain biking excursion company. For golfers, there are a few courses offering daily rates: the 18-hole Daihakone Country Club (with its renowned seventeenth hole known as the “Lotus Blossom”); and the historic 18-hole Sengoku Golf Course, operated by the Fujiya Hotel (established by a British designer in 1917).

The 7 Best Neighborhoods in Hakone for Tourists

1. Hakone-Yumoto

Hakone-Yumoto is the gateway to the region, a small community at the foot of the Haya River valley that cuts into the eastern side of the Hakone caldera. The surroundings are picturesque, with steep, densely forested slopes and the gently flowing river below. The town itself isn’t especially attractive, with a mix of wooden and concrete-block hotels and lots of private “bessō” (holiday house) vacation villas.

There is not much in terms of attractions, but Hakone-Yumoto serves as a good base for exploring the region, with many reasonably priced lodging options and various dining and drinking establishments. It also functions as the central transportation hub for trains to Gōra and Odawara and buses throughout Hakone.

Souvenir and craft shops line the main road. Pick up local specialties such as dried fish goods, shiokara (salty, fermented seafood), umeboshi (pickled, dried plums), grated yam soba, sweet dumplings, and “hot spring buns.”

a large building with many trees on top of it

Another benefit: some of Hakone’s best affordable onsen (hot spring resorts) are located here, particularly along the Sukumo River (which branches off the Haya) in an area known as Yumotochaya, and in the more tranquil and exclusive area of Tōnosawa, a bit further up the main Haya gorge.

Convenient for amenities, transportation, and eating/drinking spots, with many accommodations, though it fills up quickly during busy times and lacks the views and charm of villages higher up the mountain.

  • Best Hostels:
    K’s House – Hotel phone: +81 460-85-9111
    Azito Hotel contact details: +81 460-83-8557

2. Miyanoshita and Kowakidani

Trains and buses along the Hakone Tozan Line wind through the Haya River Gorge from Hakone-Yumoto, passing through Ōhiradai to reach Miyanoshita, the first major village along the mountain route. This area and neighboring Kowakidani offer a few attractions, some quiet lodging options, a good choice of restaurants and bakeries, and some upscale hot spring resorts. Even if not a guest, it`s worth visiting the historic Fujiya Hotel. Open since 1891, it has hosted celebrities and its on-site restaurant remains one of the best in the region.

One stop further up is Kowakidani, where visitors can view Northeast Asian artwork in the stylish Okada Museum of Art or go to the huge Hakone Kowakien Yunessun spa resort, which features a waterpark along with traditional Japanese outdoor and private hot spring baths.

It’s also worth setting aside time for the Hakone Open-Air Museum (accessible via Chōkoku no Mori Station), a photogenic park dotted with all sorts of sculptures and huge modern installations, enhanced by enchanting views and a traditional Japanese teahouse. Highlights include works by Brancusi, Rodin, and Giacometti, over 300 works by Picasso (including 188 ceramics) housed in a special pavilion, and 26 sculptures by Henry Moore.

a statue of a man standing in front of a fountain

3. Gōra and Kiga/Miyagino

The Hakone Tozan Line ends at Gōra, a compact hamlet above the Haya River valley presenting scenic views up and down. Steep slopes mean distances appearing close on maps can result in taxing 30-minute climbs. The settlement clusters eateries, shops and lodgings.

a blue and white train stopped at a train station

From Gōra, transportation goes steeply up to Sōunzan via an incline railway. Lovely, remote hotels are spread along the slope between Gōra and Sōunzan, accessible via stops on the route. The Hakone Gōra Park is known for its blooming flowers during specific months. There are also a couple cafés and the Hakone Craft House, featuring glassblowing and pottery demonstrations. Nearby are mildly informative museums for rainy or overcast days: the Hakone Museum of Photography and the Hakone Museum of Art, displaying ancient Japanese ceramics, porcelain, and a beautiful garden.

Well below Gōra (you can walk, but most use the bus) lie the small neighborhoods of Kiga and Miyagino, on opposite sides of the Haya River – a couple of picturesque bridges connect the two, with a scattering of hotels on both banks. It’s another peaceful place to lodge, though you’ll rely on buses – rather than trains – for transportation if staying here.

a train on a track in a train station

Ōwakudani

From Sōunzan, travelers can transfer to the Hakone Ropeway (this is a cable car) that ascends rapidly to Ōwakudani, approximately 3,425ft (1,044m) above the Hakone region and representing the highest point along the looping route. At this point, another cable car must be changed for the descent to Tōgendai.

It’s worth visiting the windy summit to wander around, take in the smoking vents and fumaroles, and the fantastic view of Mt Fuji to the north (assuming the weather is favorable). You can also sample dishes boiled in the sulfurous hot springs here and take in the views of nearby Mt Kanmurigatake (4,622ft/1,409m).

a train on a train track near a mountain

Gōra is a calmer region, with high-end lodgings furnishing some of the best perspectives on the mountain. Nearly halfway around “the Loop,” it’s also a convenient place to be based to investigate the entire Hakone region, though the steep slopes can be testing for some.

  • Best Hotels in Gōra:
    You may also consider Byakudan – Hotel phone: +81 460-87-0010
    Hyatt • Hotel contact number: +81 460-82-2000
    Madoka no Mori • Hotel phone: +81 460-83-3366
  • Good cheap/midrange hotels in Gōra and Kiga/Miyagino:
    Gaku – The hotel can be reached at +81 460-83-8223
    Emblem Flow – The hotel can be reached at +81 460-83-9120
    A hot spring inn • Hotel phone: +81 70-4552-9724
  • Best Hotel in Miyagino:
    The lodging Asante Inn may be reached by phone at +81 460-83-8822

4. Sengokuhara

North of Gōra and the gorge, the Haya River flows through a elevated plateau just below the northern rim of the Hakone caldera known as Sengokuhara. It’s even more secluded, with generally high-end hotels and far fewer visitors. The scenery is less dramatic, with expansive panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. Access is solely by taxi or bus, so exploring the region’s attractions is not as convenient.

It’s worth diverting to primarily for its museums. The contemporary Pola Museum of Art contains an assorted collection. It’s best known for its French Impressionism – paintings from Renoir, Monet, and Cézanne, as well as Picasso and Van Gogh. There’s also a sizable section of Japanese glasswork, paintings, and pottery. In the village of Sengokuhara itself, the most intriguing destination is the Lalique Museum Hakone, devoted to the intricate glass creations of French artist René Lalique. Don’t miss the on-site Orient Express cafe, situated in an authentic Orient Express Pullman train cabin with Lalique glass panels.

a sign that is on the side of a building

The Hakone Venetian Glass Museum on the edge of the village is worth a visit for those interested in glasswork, featuring stunning glass artwork from the island of Murano in Venice, Italy, known for glass production. The highly photographable installations are very popular on social media.

North of the village, the hike up Mount Kintoki offers one of Hakone`s finest walks. Allow 3-4 hours roundtrip to reach the summit and behold mesmerizing panoramas of Mount Fuji, Lake Ashi and the surrounding area rising 3,976 feet.

Another natural attraction is the Sengokuhara Susuki Grass Fields west of the main village, a prairie-like area of pampas grasses beneath the mountain ridge. It’s especially popular in autumn when the grass turns golden.

5. Lake Ashi

Lake Ashi dominates the western side of Hakone, with serene blue waters encircled by mountains. The area offers various viewpoints combining Mt Fuji with the volcanic crater lake. It’s a stunning place to stay, and boat trips on the lake are a highlight of any Hakone trip.

a large boat sitting on top of a dock

The boats that carry visitors from the northern region to the southern region seem somewhat misplaced. There are three main areas that draw visitors: Tōgendai (north), Hakone-en (east), and the two southern towns of Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone. The Hakone Ropeway reaches its terminus at Tōgendai, the tiny hub located at the northern end of the lake. A few eating establishments can be found here as well as a cluster of hotels that stretch up the slopes behind the lake; the Hanaori, situated close to the docks, provides some of the best views over the lake.

About halfway along the lake, on the eastern shore, Hakone-en is a peculiar little complex of shops and kids’ attractions (petting zoo, aquarium, amusement center) – no botanical gardens exist here, but some maps incorrectly show them. Instead, the Komagatake Ropeway (cable car) travels up to the summit of Mt. Komagatake (4,452ft/1,357m.) At the top, even more spectacular perspectives await along with a small temple, the Hakone Mototsumiya Shrine.

Back near the lake, the area is controlled by the enormous Prince Hotel complex and the Dragon Palace Hot Spring. The day spa is intended to look like Byōdō-in Temple in Kyoto, with a connected ryokan (translated as “Ryuguden” in English). Most visitors take a bus to Hakone-en because the pirate boats don’t stop there.

The lake’s southern end is anchored by the busier twin villages of Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone, both of which are serviced by the pirate boats from Tōgendai.

Hakone-machi is smaller, with a few shops, restaurants, and hotels around the docks. The Hakone Ekiden Museum showcases the athletic marathon relay race held yearly between Tokyo and Hakone since 1920. At the northern end of the village lies the Hakone Sekisho Museum, which incorporates a replica Tokugawa-era guard post of 1619, one of many that once controlled the Old Tōkaidō Highway. From here, you can explore Onshi-Hakone Park, with its reproduction of the old Imperial Villa and fabulous views of Mt Fuji on clear days. You can make the short walk to Moto-Hakone via a stretch of the Old Tōkaidō Highway that runs alongside the main road, lined with giant cedar trees.

Moto-Hakone is busier, with the main attractions being the Narukawa Art Museum (of Japanese art) and the Hakone Shrine, a little further around the bay. The main Shinto shrine is at the top of a long staircase via several torii gates – an enchanting spot surrounded by woodlands.

The biggest draw for most visitors is back down at the lakeside, where some people wait 30–90 minutes to capture a photograph under the stunning vermilion Heiwa no Torii (water Torii) out on the lake. Come very early to avoid long queues.

You have the option of taking various buses back to Hakone-Yumoto from Moto-Hakone, but you could also spend a pleasant afternoon hiking along the mountains on the Tōkaidō Highway. The road ascends the slope away from the lake, but most of its 9 km length descends steeply. It includes the original 17th century cobblestone sections, eventually following the Sukumo River valley and the main road to Hakone-Yumoto.

people standing in front of a building

The hike is a good way to avoid crowds and has scenic views. Along the route is the Amazake Tea House located in a traditional, 400-year-old thatched way station (around 2km from Moto-Hakone). It’s named after its homemade “amazake” (a non-alcoholic, sweet rice beverage) but also serves mochi, tea, and other drinks. You can catch the bus from there or continue hiking another 2.5km down to Hatajuku (see below) – allow 4 hours if you intend to walk the entire route to Hakone-Yumoto Station.

Highly-Regarded Lakefront Accommodations around Lake Ashi

  • Best Hotels in Tōgendai (North Lake Ashi):
    Hanaori – Telephone number for the hotel: +81 460-83-8739
    · Most Affordable Resort: Hotel Sunroute Ginza

  • Best Hotels in Hakone-en (Mid Lake Ashi):
    Prince Hakone Ashinoko The telephone number for the Prince Hakone Ashinoko is +81 460-83-1111.
  • Highly regarded Accommodations in Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone (South Lake Ashi):
    .

    • The Hakone Hotel Hakone Hotel – Hotel phone: +81 460-83-6311
    Another alternative is Villa Bizan – Hotel phone: +81 460-85-1113
    Hananoyado Fukuya • Hotel phone: +81 460-86-2121
    Auberge Au Mirador · Hotel contact number: +81 460-84-7229 The Odakyu Hotel de Yama presents an appealing option for visitors seeking lodging in Hakone. Hotel phone: +81 460-83-6321.

6. Hatajuku and the Sukumo Valley

a living room filled with furniture and a walk in shower

The Old Tōkaidō Highway Trail (and buses that shadow the trail on the main road) eventually drops into Hatajuku, an atmospheric village in the Sukumo River Gorge celebrated for its master artisans.

a building with a sign on the side of it

It’s specially renowned for Hakone’s exclusive “Yosegi Zaiku” system, which involves matching the all-natural tones and grains of numerous local woods to develop attractive geometrical patterns on carved merchandise (trays, bowls, boxes, etc.) Go to the Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan (“Hatajuku Parquet Hall”) or one of numerous handicraft stores on the narrow main street through the village to see the best examples (Hamamatsu-ya in the core of the village is one of the best stores).

You can take bus transportation down to Hakone-Yumoto from here; otherwise, it’s a lengthy walk along the road (which can be busy). The Sukumo Gorge drops down steeply from Hatajuku; though there are no hotels in the village itself, the Odakyu Hotel Hatsuhana is a wonderfully serene spot halfway down, with more hot spring hotels filling the valley in Yumotochaya, just before Hakone-Yumoto.

  • Top-Rated Hotels in the Sukumo Valley (Yumotochaya):
    Kijitei Hoeiso” This accommodation can be reached by calling +81 460-85-5763
    Odakyu Hotel Hatsuhana – Hotel phone: +81-460-85-7321

7. Odawara

a large building with a clock on the side of it

Most visits to Hakone by public transit begin in the historic castle town of Odawara, where there are fast Shinkansen (bullet train) links to Tokyo and Nagoya/Kyoto, and Hakone Tozan Line trains up to Hakone-Yumoto.

While it`s considerably farther from the mountain park and lacks the rustic environment of the Hakone “villages,” traveling from Odawara only extends the day by roughly a quarter hour each direction compared to Hakone-Yumoto. In the evenings you`ll have far more options (shopping, dining, and socializing, notably surrounding the train station, though most venues close between 8–9 pm). Leaving your baggage near the bullet train station is much simpler than hauling it around the mountain. An additional advantage is that lodging in Odawara tends to fill up later during busy times and usually offers cheaper rates than comparable places within Hakone itself.

The main feature attracting people in the town itself is Odawara Castle, just south of the train station and visible from nearly everywhere. The castle is one of Japan’s most significant ones, captured by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1590 following a famous siege and one of the bases of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. Like numerous other castles, it was destroyed after the Meiji Restoration but was rebuilt in the 1960s. Today the museum inside does an excellent job recounting this history, with a breezy observation deck providing panoramic views over the city.

There are only a handful of good places to stay in Odawara, primarily around the station – the best are listed below.

Hakone Travel Tips

  • Language
    Though main hotels and some shops and restaurants may have English speakers on hand, and more individuals speak English in Hakone than before, don’t assume everyone will understand you. The staff at all the primary ticket offices can communicate in English, menus usually have photos you can point at, and signage in the stations (and around the region) is translated into English. But try to learn a few words and numbers in Japanese if possible.
  • Getting Around Hakone
    With some forethought, it is possible to visit every location in Hakone by bus and or taxi (buses and stops normally contain English interpretations). Obtaining the use of a vehicle can be bothersome in Japan as an International Driver’s Permit is needed. Presuming the acquisition of one is feasible, securing a rental car for a couple of days in Hakone is not a poor plan, assuming the ambition extends beyond the main “Loop.” You’ll invest more money but it will be quicker and more practical than general transport, considering how widespread everything is.
  • Hakone’s Nearest Airport
    Haneda Airport (also known as Tokyo International Airport) is the nearest significant airport to Hakone. The swiftest way to Odawara from the airport is to take a Keikyū Line train to Shinagawa (or a bus to Shin-Yokohama Station) and transfer to the Shinkansen (bullet train). Keikyū buses also run directly to Tōgendai (2hr 40min) via Gotemba and Sengokuhara (2hr 30min).
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Welcome to my travel website! I’m Mary Howard, an American who has been exploring the world full-time for 8 years.

Together with my husband, Intan, we often find ourselves in our second home, Bali, but our adventures take us to exciting destinations all over the globe.

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