Panagia Episkopi Church in Mesa Gonia, Santorini

by Mary Howard
- June 15, 2024

Panagia Episkopi is the oldest church in Santorini, constructed at the end of the 11th century by Byzantine Emperor Alexios I Komnenos. Dedicated to the Panagia, meaning the “All-holy”, the Greek Orthodox title for the Virgin Mary. Episkopi signifies “episcopal”. Situated at the base of Profitis Ilias Mountain, around 800m southeast of Mesa Gonia village, also referred to as Episkopi Gonias. The community of Kamari is about 2 km away and Fira, the capital of the island, is approximately 7 km away.

The accounted report of the church begins in 1207, the same year when the island became part of a maritime state made by the Venetian Republic following the Fourth Crusade. The Venetians drove out the Orthodox bishop from the island and installed a Roman Catholic bishop in place. At that moment, a Catholic altar was erected next to the Orthodox one at Panagia Episkopi. Nowadays, the west side entrance is for the Greek Orthodox church and the southeast side is for the Catholic church. In 1537, the island was captured under Ottoman Empire rule and that same year, Panagia Episkopi was again the episcopal seat of the Orthodox diocese of Santorini until 1827.”

In 1827, a new church was established in Fira, becoming the focal point. Later, from 1832 onwards, the church`s landholdings started shrinking. By 1850, the remaining property was sold off, including the vineyards in 1902. A 1915 fire devastated most archival documents and books housed at the church, though icons survived unscathed. Rebuilding and renovation lasted until 1986 to repair earthquake damage from 1956. During this time, some fresco paintings detached from walls, with 3 such framed icons never seen again after being taken.

Originally, the central area of the Greek Orthodox Church housed numerous frescoes and holy icons dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries along with carved wooden door panels from the 17th century. The frescoes were originally decorated the entire space but were covered with plaster during Greece`s rule under the Ottoman Empire from 1453 to 1821. Some of the frescoes were successfully rescued and restored over time. Most others were destroyed by moisture exposure across the centuries.

The most renowned icon at this church refers to the Virgin Mary as the “affectionate Madonna”. The 12th-century portrait depicts the Panagia embracing Jesus with his hand on her chin. It is kept in a glass case under controlled conditions inside the central church area.

Annually on August 15th, a religious observance known as the Feast of the Dormition of the Theotokos is commemorated in Greece where it is also a public holiday. This commemorates the supposed passing or death of Mary, the mother of Jesus, and her resurrection afterward. On this yearly feast day, the church attracts enormous crowds comprising local residents and visitors.

Panagia Episkopi Hours and Information

Season: Open year-round.
Hours: Visiting times are daily from 10am-12pm and 2pm-5pm. The church and surrounding grounds can be seen in under an hour.
Area: Mount Profitis, Mesa Gonia, Santorini 847 00
Telephone: +30 228 603 0399
No admission charge. Free entrance.
Bus: Found along the Fira-Kamari bus route. Buses do not always stop at every scheduled location, so inform the driver that the ultimate destination is Panagia Episkopi. There are 2 bus stop options, both situated roadside on the main road outside Mesa Gonia and Kamari about 450m apart. One is located in front of a EKO gas station. From there, it`s roughly a 10-minute walk (600m) uphill on a tranquil road, making it safe to walk. The second stop is in front of the Santorini Brewing Company, approximately 15 minutes (1 km) away. A road bearing signs branching off the main Fira-Kamari road west of the winery leads to the church. The distance from the winery to Panagia Episkopi is around 850m.
Parking: Free automobile storage is accessible outside church grounds.
Transportation: Some hotels provide transfer and pickup services, speak to the concierge.